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800efi converted 900efi help

C
Jan 22, 2013
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Alright so i have posted some about this before but now the motor is together with the 900 top end. Im wondering what do I need now?

Is it safe to run with the 800 y pipe, and pipe or do i need the 900 exhaust?

Also can i run it with just the 800 ecu or do i need a 900 one, or boondocker box. any help would be much appreciated, Im anxious to fire this thing up but dont wanna melt it down
 
C
May 12, 2008
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the y pipe is same pipe is different but may work you will need to guve more fuel for 900 you may be able to send your ecu to cat and have 900 map flashed if you need pipe I have one I would sell cheap




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Idcatman3

MODERATOR: Premium Member
Staff member
Nov 26, 2007
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Idaho Falls, Idaho
Posted on your ArcticChat thread also

You may need to swap the ECU and wiring harness to the 900 stuff (it's different, stupidly). You might talk to a dealer to see if they can re-flash the 800 though. The cheaper option may be to get a boondocker box if you can find one.

It looks the the EFI 800 and 900 use the same y-pipe and muffler. Pipe is different. We use the same aftermarket single pipe on 800's, 900's and big bored 975's. I would say if you can find a cheap stock single, do it for peace of mind.

If you're doing the boondocker box anyway, I'd look for a black magic single pipe setup, it works very well on this engine.
 

arcticcatwill

Active member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
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Lewiston, id
I ran a 900 top end on my 2002 800efi for a years. All you need is a fuel pressure regulator and a 2.5 degree timing key. If you look in the book the only major differences is the ecu, maybe injectors, and the timing. I ran 52lbs fuel pressure I think. All it does is bump the pressure up so it makes it run a little rich to account for the extra CC's. The timing is 3 degrees different between the 800 and 900(Don't quote me on that, refer to the book) but I did use a 2.5 degree timing key and put it in backwards to account for that. And unplug the ethanol wire to richen it up and buy koso's.

I ran it for a season without the timing key but I watched the EGT's like crazy. It liked to seek up to 1400* in the mid range cruising. After the timing key it wouldn't go over 1250*. And it ran hard too, never skipped a beat.

I ran the D&D y pipe, pipe, and can that was for the 800. Also had v-force reeds. And this was not a trail sled, it was put in a king chassis with a 162. Pulled some of the big stuff in McCall and lots of hard tree riding. It saw 2000+ miles of all conditions.

PM me if you have any questions

Will
 
C
Jan 22, 2013
39
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Awesome thanks for the help. I ordered the timing key from bikeman, I have a four window digatron to monitor the egt's and got myself a boondocker control box to turn up the fuel. I'm just wondering if you or someone can help me with the boondocker I've never used one and just wondering what my settings should be at?
 

arcticcatwill

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Nov 26, 2007
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Lewiston, id
Since its not ported or a 1150 BB it should be pretty easy. Maybe +2 overall. Start at +5 or something to be safe. As far as I know the mapping is the same or super close. Before the timing key I saw 1400* mid range and when you gave it some fuel it backed right down. After the timing key 1250* mid. And 1000-1100* wide open pulling a hill for 60+sec both before and after the key.

Will
 
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