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Zollinger Tube Chassis Restoration

Guage ? I remember going from a 96 sls to a 2001 or 2 600 141 skidoo in that blue. Probably one of the first times my pants got tight was lookjng at that famous tison pic! officially useing this as a blue print to build a restomod 96 xlt 600 rmk. My late mother bought the sled from a local. Not sure I could best ya in some sort of vintage class hill climb race but it would be fun to try ?

Some questions. Whats the dry weight? Care to post some front suspension geometry measurements? I went into a great amount of effort to build a 98 srx mountain with 17.5" shocks and a narrowed ski stance with a tall ride hight. Still needs some work but the sleds a pull and go buggy. Unfortunately a friend managed to roll it down an icy road in front of his house one night getting back from a ride so the whole steering system and overstructure needs replaced.

Awesome work ??
Hey Brad, I haven’t weighed it but she’s HEAVY. The chassis is all .090 wall 4130 nothing light weight about that haha. As far as suspension geometry and pickup points it’s all the same as a ZX chassis skidoo. I actually sold both of my spare 141 and 144 M10’s for $100 or something stupid like that.
 
I'm not certain this will play but here is an early startup sound clip, If someone could confirm that it is working that would be awesome. I can see it on my desktop but not my phone.

 
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I must be missing something, I can imbed the videos using my phone via google drive but can only see them on the desktop.
 
I decided rather than starting a new thread for the 700 restoration/rebuild I would just continue using this one. Here is the condition of the chassis when I began working on it. The prior owners were attempting to swap in a cat 800 laydown motor and diamond drive from an M series into it.1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg
 
At first I wasn't even sure where to begin as it was in such bad shape but luckily two of the three chaincase mounting stud heads were still in place. I carefully cut the tack welds and removed them.
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With the studs removed I was able to bolt the chain case back onto the chassis to begin getting an idea of a shape for the filler piece.10.jpg11.jpg
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While waiting on material for the patch panel to arrive I began carefully removing all of the un-original brackets and plates that had been added. Unfortunately, this revealed some major damage and holes from blowing through the tubing where they were welding too hot with a mig welder. I had no choice but to replace the damaged tubes.9.jpg14.jpg15.jpg12.jpg13.jpg27.jpg32.jpg28.jpg29.jpg23.jpg
 
In an effort to minimize the chassis twisting and moving around I replaced each tube Individually paying very close attention to the fitment as to ensure strong joints.16.jpg17.jpg18.jpg19.jpg20.jpg21.jpg22.jpg
 
Up to this point all of the seams were simple butt joints but with adding angles into the equation I needed to pickup a tubing notcher in order to correctly fit all of the pieces from here out.33.jpg35.jpg36.jpg37.jpg38.jpg39.jpg77.jpg
 
With the front of the chassis now boxed in I then moved to replacing the PTO side bearing support. The original had been cut out and this massive plate for mounting the diamond drive that I had removed earlier was in it's place.
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The next step was to precisely measure the CTC on the chaincase and transfer it to the new bearing support. which was built oversize to allow for adjustment while mounting it into the chassis.40.jpg41.jpg42.jpg43.jpg
 
Getting the bearing support in the correct location took almost three full nights making sure the shafts were not only parallel to each other but to the chassis as well. all while maintaining the same angle forward as the chaincase.
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With the bearing support mounted where I was happy with it I then could get back to the patch panel behind the chaincase. I squared off and straightened the torched edges to make building the patch easier. a cardboard template was made up then transferred to the new material. Once the part was in and I was happy with the fitment I welded it into place. (Note I am not a fabricator or a welder but seeing as this panel is not structural and will be hidden behind the chaincase I decided to give it a try. the rest of the welding will be done by a friend who is a welder by trade.) once that was done the lower hole was cut out.49.jpg50.jpg51.jpg52.jpg
 
At this point most of the lower chassis was ready for final welding so I started building the steering hoop structure using the 800 chassis as a template. Not having a tubing bender I use the sand method. Where a cap is welded to one end of the tube, it is then packed tightly with sand then capped off. the bend is made by heating the tube and drawing it around a jig I had built on a small steel table. doing it this way keeps the tube from crushing at the bend keeping the tube round throughout.

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here a cap is welded to one end of the tube, it is then packed tightly with sand then capped off. the bend is made by heating the tube and drawing it around a jig I had built on a small steel table. doing it this way keeps the tube from crushing at the bend.
 
After the main hoop was finished I needed to build the rear supports, I did make a mistake early on in that I had built them using measurements from the 800 chassis but come to find out the original ones were a little longer and on less steep on an angle. (as made evident by the remains on the top tube where the originals were cut off.) 61.jpg62.jpg63.jpg64.jpg
 
We're now almost caught up to where the sled currently sits. (With the exception of the finished steering post which I've yet to take pictures of.) It has been sitting like this for a little over a month now for two reasons, 1. I haven't been able to find a clear photo of the rear tunnel liner section in order to replicate it. I know it was not the same as the 800 so I chose to not copy it. and 2. I didn't have a motor to be able to measure and build mounts off of.
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