YZ450FX Reviews and Helpful Setup Tips
- Thread starter beans
- Start date
We found with the 2016 KTM SX and Husky FC that if you just held the starter for a few seconds waited a minute then repeat this process, each time it would turn over easier. After a few times it would start right up. Never had to jump start them last year in N. IDAHO durring last years snow bike season doing this. Seems like we just had to get the battery warmed up with a little use prior to just holding the start button for the real start.
The following may not be an option if you are on a multi-day trip, but if you are at home, it's nice to have your bike in a warm shop, or to put an electric heater pointed on the engine for 10 minutes in the trailer, and then start the bike and let it warm up to operating temperature while you are still at home. Then throw it in, or on, the trailer or sled deck and head out. Makes a huge difference even if your drive to riding is a couple hours away and even if you are not putting it in an enclosed trailer.
Pre-starting it or not, keeping your bike on a battery tender helps a lot, too, so your battery starts out topped off.
Pre-starting it or not, keeping your bike on a battery tender helps a lot, too, so your battery starts out topped off.
Agreed getting the battery warm by hitting the starter a few times... and preheating the bike helps ... ALOT...
However key to my observation is that the YZ450FX and KTM450EXC (both 2016) exposed to exactly the same temperatures and previous day riding conditions using exactly same battery behave differently.
YZ will start almost every time first go... EXC... not so much but reliable after a few tries. The SX & FC with a smaller capacity battery... less so again.
My guess is the KTM/Husky simply don't charge the batteries as effectively while riding. Fortunately KTM sells a nice powerparts plug to easily tether the bike and charge overnight.. or jumpstart using the same port.
However key to my observation is that the YZ450FX and KTM450EXC (both 2016) exposed to exactly the same temperatures and previous day riding conditions using exactly same battery behave differently.
YZ will start almost every time first go... EXC... not so much but reliable after a few tries. The SX & FC with a smaller capacity battery... less so again.
My guess is the KTM/Husky simply don't charge the batteries as effectively while riding. Fortunately KTM sells a nice powerparts plug to easily tether the bike and charge overnight.. or jumpstart using the same port.
B
brojoe
Member
I am building my first snow bike and here is a list of things that I have got for the bike
Yamaha YZ450FX - coupled with a 129" Yeti
Boost It turbo
Rebuilt front forks with stiffer strings
Hand guards
Heated grips (my hands always get cold )
Thermobob
Custom built lowered pegs
Seat concepts seat
2" riser (not sure if it will be tall enough, I am 6'2)
Tether
Rad guards
Larger capacity fuel tank
I am missing a head light. Not to sure if I need one as I have a helmet light.
I was also thinking about moving the foot brake up to the hand lever, as I rode more street bike then dirt bike and it feels more natural.
This will be a dedicated build.
Yamaha YZ450FX - coupled with a 129" Yeti
Boost It turbo
Rebuilt front forks with stiffer strings
Hand guards
Heated grips (my hands always get cold )
Thermobob
Custom built lowered pegs
Seat concepts seat
2" riser (not sure if it will be tall enough, I am 6'2)
Tether
Rad guards
Larger capacity fuel tank
I am missing a head light. Not to sure if I need one as I have a helmet light.
I was also thinking about moving the foot brake up to the hand lever, as I rode more street bike then dirt bike and it feels more natural.
This will be a dedicated build.
C
capulin overdrive
Well-known member
Yeti should come with a brake line long enough to go to the front. And the Yeti gas can is so big, I wouldn't worry about a larger bike tank.
This is literally KTM's recommended procedure for starting their newest generation bikes on cold days on the initial startup. I think they recommend cranking longer, like 20 seconds or something, the first time before letting it sit. Generates heat in the battery and it will get stronger.
You are correct, for 17 the 450FX does NOT have a kicker, but it gets black rims, a low fuel flight, and a supposedly easier to use air filter cover. Personally, I like the option of spending $25 for a kick start delete kit if I so choose as opposed to $300+ to add a kick start. I can't imagine Yamaha changed the internals any to make the kicker not work but stranger things have happened. If I were in your shoes, I'd be on the hunt for a 16.
Bar mitts are awesome for keeping your hands warm. Mine lasted about 40 days of riding probably, before they were totally destroyed by trees. That got me through the coldest days of winter and I will be buying another set this year. I would also get a good pair of pants. Keeping your butt warm will keep your hands warm.
Do you have a link for this?
Surprisingly its disappeared off the online powerparts books...
But here are some photos of the box / part number and whats included
Not sure what the big metal donut is for... the rest are obvious.
Cigarette lighter opposite end for custom KTM charger... cut it off add jumpstart battery.
But here are some photos of the box / part number and whats included
Not sure what the big metal donut is for... the rest are obvious.
Cigarette lighter opposite end for custom KTM charger... cut it off add jumpstart battery.
Boost it turbo... NO IDEA
is this it... http://www.boost-it.ca/whats-new/
looks like alot of $$$ plus additional engine strain on an already peak tuned race engine... but I'm no expert on turbos. On paper they worry me on pure principle.
Wish they had pictures... hope the system also extends the engines oil capacity or no way i'd touch it.
Fork Springs.. yes
Hand guards... yep ... get the full wrap around ones with the aluminium support... its the No1 way to pickup the bike when you drop it.
Seat / peg combo... 6'2"... raised seats and std height pegs is an option. Snowbike pegs are usually larger then normal as is and hence closer to the ground on corners as is. Just an alternative approach to consider.
2" riser... im 6'4" no issue with that size...
Rad guards ... snowbiking seems to get close and personal with scrub and branches more often then in dirt... just the way stuff sticks out of the snow the space between trees is wider... but the branches lower!.
Helmet light... see comment about rad guards.... I seem to do a lot more ducking under branches in winter... helmet light wouldn't be my choice.
Larger tank... YZ450FX tank smallish... bigger tank is nice and if you get a clear one then definitely worth it.
The front brake lever is routed to rear brake as standard on most timbersled or yeti installs.
Last edited:
At first look, it seems like the wiring and fuse are pretty small to use to jump start and is more for a trickle charger or heated clothing setup. I guess you could slowly jump start (5 or 10 minute hookup and charge) through it connecting to another bike or battery. But I don't think you would want to push a bunch of juice through it like with the handy little lithium jump starters everyone is carrying around nowadays. Those need way larger gauge wires. You can get a proper wire harness from those manufactures or make your own if you can source the appropriate end adapter. And the ones appropriate for bikes is about the size of a cellphone. I don't know weights, but they are likely getting lighter weight than adding a kickstarter kit! Ha.
I guess this wire setup would be better than nothing, but by the time you hooked up another bike and waited 5 or 10 minutes, you could have taken off the seat, used the clip on lithium jumpstarter, and been on your way. Course if your battery isn't totally dead and is just cold, then hooking up another battery/bike could give it just the bump it needs in a shorter time. Or carry a pair of mini jumper cables (store bought motorcycle cables or home made).
If you consistently need to boost for that first start, your best bet would be the pigtail harness for the lithium boost starters and hook that up. If it's just a backup, then probably no reason to even mess with the pigtail. Just bring the cellphone sized lithium booster knowing you'll have to take off your seat rear quick to boost.
Last edited:
B
brojoe
Member
Yes, that is the link for the Boost It turbo. It was field test last year by a friend who put 30+ days on it, without failure. He's also hard on equipment.
I have been in the habit of dropping the oil every ride. I am lucky to get 20-25 days a year in the mtns.
Thanks for the input on the other items listed. I will look for a light to mount on the bike.
I ended up putting the stock foot pegs back on my bike after the oversize ones trashed a pair of boots when I had to kick start my WR one time. I haven't missed them.
Anybody have any maps they like on the FX?
Anybody have any maps they like on the FX?
Yeah thanks for the feedback... had some worries about this... yes it is designed to trickle charge not jump start.... however some locals here are using them to do just that...
The thing Im really keen on is the plug setup... I really want to avoid taking the seat off... for some reason my seat bolts have a habit of "jumping to freedom" and disappearing out of my hand and into the snow never to be seen again...
The plug itself is rated at 24V 16Amp... and its the bit I really want.
the fuse is 32V 10Amp... but the wires... yeah as you say hmmmmm they look dam thin.
The wires and fuse will likely limit the amount of current that can be delivered... and heat up (melt) doing it.
As a non electrician what I can't figure out is peak load ratings ... for example to my understanding some fuse designs will take a much higher peak load then rated load, similarly for wires.
The plug looks like it wouldn't short out at 12V if its rated for 24V... Apparently voltage is the main determining factor on how far sparks will jump the air gap. And contact area & metal thickness seems comparable to clamps.
Lithium batteries are capable of dumping almost all their storage capacity in a ridiculously short time and burst into flame doing so without some sort of discharge / charging control ... which due to safety concerns are built into each jump starter... it also seems that manufacturers ratings on what those jumpstart packs can deliver versus actual batteries used inside them are somewhat exaggerated... which means the actual amount of current coming out is a mystery unless you actually try it and measure the result.
My guess its doing the job for others as its working in conjunction with what left in the internal battery rather then supplying the whole startup load on its own.
Long story short... thinking about isn't helping me... shopping around for a Lithium pack going to try it and see what melts then replace that!... Ill let you know how it goes.
R
Rush44
Well-known member
First thing you should be doing when buying a lithium battery bike is putting that battery on the shelf and popping in a lead acid battery. Higher CCA, not affected by cold, but yes it does weigh a bit more (but is totally worth it, IMO). I've heard from multiple people that the holding the button and waiting for the battery to warm up is hard on the starter. Not sure why it's bad for the starter... maybe someone else can educate.
Oddly enough the jump pack I carry is lithium and even when it's cold as hell it will crank up a bike instantly. Must be something chemically different from a full size lithium battery?
Ha. Yeah, I can relate. You could always build your own pigtail. One that you know will handle the juice. And pick whatever plug end you want (if you know the source of your jump start) or just put terminal ends on both ends (though you'll need to really be careful to keep the ends covered/insulated so they don't contact each other or anything).
If you have terminal ends, you'll be able to clip on jumper cables from any other source (bike, automobile, or any other 12v source). This way, your pigtail won't fail and you won't have to take off the seat. Or use the plug of your choice to terminate you pigtail and then make an adapter if the mated terminal plug and off that have the regular terminal ends. That way, your plug is safe from shorting out, but if the person jumping doesn't have that plug, you can use your adapter. Unless you go so far as to make your homemade jumper cables using that plug, then you are good to go (until you lose them or they fail and then other jumper cables won't adapt to your plug. But that's a lot of what ifs so you'll probably be fine.
However you do it, you'll be set on your end...then you'll only have to talk a buddy into taking his seat off so you can get a jump start! Ha.