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Yeti 129SS reviews

Can you give the details on how you set it up!!!
Thanks

I do not mean to not be a contributor, but I can not contribute on this one. I have to keep some of my knowledge for my customers. If a customer is doing business with me, he gets my setup. I spend a lot of time and effort into making these exotics run. I have to drive sales to my business and continue making my customers happy on the mountain. There are a lot of places to buy kits and accessories, but there are very few of us that know how to set it all up.

If you have already purchased your unit somewhere else and want to purchase your accessories, springs and such, from us. I would be happy to share my setup knowledge.

There is so much to a proper Yeti set up, it will make your head swim. Each application is different and unique. When it is right, it is like a race car that always wins. Everyone wants to know how he does it???????
 
My buddy just got his Yeti 129ss kit with raptor coil overs setup on a stock 2017 KTM 450SX with air forks. He pumped up the air fork pressure but I'm not exactly sure how many pounds it was final. The seat height is definitely much higher (at least 3 inches) compared to my 2017 TS LE120 on a 2016 KTM 490 big bore XC-F. His Yeti kit doesn't have a spare fuel tank or gear/tool bag while mine has both attached to the tunnel (an extra 30-40lbs). So overall weight of his Yeti it is much lighter.

I rode it a few times throughout the day on hard pack trail and in 1 to 1.5 feet of powder over firm base. I really liked the Yeti ski in all conditions. It held firm on hard pack and was easier to initiate in the pow and stayed solid through turns. My TS ski can wash out in the pow and feels jumpy on the hard pack. I'm waiting for the new TS Traverse ski upgrade and hope that will resolve these issues.

The Yeti track felt stiff, providing good traction and floated well. I didn't feel it sawing through the firm base on steep climbs where sometimes my TS kit does. The weight and setup differences between these two bikes could account for this.

Overall the Yeti kit was a blast to ride, but I didn't see that it out performed the TS to a great enough extent to warrant the higher price. If money was no object then I would definitely prefer the lighter weight and Yeti maxkeel ski.
 
coupling blocks

I'm not new to the sport, had 2 different kits before the first year TS and different kit every year. But I got a big surprise when several of us got our butts handed to us in some deep powder climbing. Had a very difficult time staying on top of the snow, could not be the trail breaker. So I'm trying to reevaluate my setup on my 2016 YZF450 129ss.

On last years 120 Yeti I had a 39 top gear and I'm going to put it on the '18 for next ride. It is difficult to compare to a year back but I don't remember having this kind of trouble in the deep.

Has anyone experimented with the coupling blocks on the 129 ss for a comparison in deep power climbing?

Also I was told that the track should be even front to back for the 2018 that the ss didn't follow the included instruction sheet.

I have the soft strut this year and last year I had the RSS but locked it out for steep stuff. So my thought was I shouldn't need the RSS for deep and steep - any thoughts?

I'm considering trying the new ARO ski, reviews are allover the place between the two skis --?

At 71 I know I don't have the power of the younger riders but I damn sure want to give them a run for it. Appreciate any suggestions.
 
I'm not new to the sport, had 2 different kits before the first year TS and different kit every year. But I got a big surprise when several of us got our butts handed to us in some deep powder climbing. Had a very difficult time staying on top of the snow, could not be the trail breaker. So I'm trying to reevaluate my setup on my 2016 YZF450 129ss.

On last years 120 Yeti I had a 39 top gear and I'm going to put it on the '18 for next ride. It is difficult to compare to a year back but I don't remember having this kind of trouble in the deep.

Has anyone experimented with the coupling blocks on the 129 ss for a comparison in deep power climbing?

Also I was told that the track should be even front to back for the 2018 that the ss didn't follow the included instruction sheet.

I have the soft strut this year and last year I had the RSS but locked it out for steep stuff. So my thought was I shouldn't need the RSS for deep and steep - any thoughts?

I'm considering trying the new ARO ski, reviews are allover the place between the two skis --?

At 71 I know I don't have the power of the younger riders but I damn sure want to give them a run for it. Appreciate any suggestions.
what were you riding with to compare?
 
Thought the ss was for the flatland and snowcross track? Kind of at a disadvantage with narrow track in the pow is it not?

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 
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YetiMX is nice product .. own a bunch... and on different bikes (YZ450/CRF450/SXF450)

So yeah product is good... BUT they just don't seem to have had the huge number of hours yet that it takes to fully set up the correct rod length for all models of bikes.

So if your seat is way up... shorten the rod length. KTM by the manual is way to high / long. Honda is the same... to high. Lower the back end so the seat is lower, you will notice less ski pressure... better cornering... better front suspension travel.


LOL, yup! Jamie must have had a jacked up 70's muscle car at some point.


My seat is all scrunched from the constant pressure of sliding forward.


Ran all last season with solid strut, hoping the shock will help this season?
 
Yep... there are a alot of things in setting up a Yeti correctly that are not in the manual... in fact some bike adapter kits don't even come with the right strut rod lengths.

Also if your dealer isn't setting up your yeti for you... make dam sure you check the preload adjustment on the front and rear shocks before riding it... most don't seem to be coming from the factory set up and the preload adjustment collar isnt locked in place and will rattle lose.
 
Yep... there are a alot of things in setting up a Yeti correctly that are not in the manual... in fact some bike adapter kits don't even come with the right strut rod lengths.

Also if your dealer isn't setting up your yeti for you... make dam sure you check the preload adjustment on the front and rear shocks before riding it... most don't seem to be coming from the factory set up and the preload adjustment collar isnt locked in place and will rattle lose.

Hows the SS working on the mountain and powder?
 
We are running ARO120 / Yeti 129 / 129SS

Deeeeep.. stupidly deep powder 7M snow in December alone.

So...

Three things make a snowbike ride "well" - The Snow / The Rider / The Snowbike!

The Snow - Deep Powder and Deep Powder with a good base is are very different. Temperature... blower powder when its cold... or heavy snot when its warm

And nothing goes well in deep powder with no base.. snowmobile, snowbike what ever.. it sucks. So ignore any ride reports until that base forms.

Alot of comparisons are not comparing apples with apples. Fortunately we are running all bikes on the same day in the same snow and swapping riders. It gives good insight how kits perform.


The Rider - The ARO 120 is at the bottom of my list for deep powder, but a good rider who can pick a good line and stay balanced and keep momentum will out climb and ride a Yeti137 even on a ARO120. So... Alot of the performance is also up to you the rider.

The Snowbike - this is what you want to know!

Yeti 137 - Widest / Longest / Lightest for the average rider the most forgiving, I just never like 137s, not good to jump... hate it on snowmobile whoops or to ride fast. Great cruise along touring kit I guess.

Aro 137 - Hmm haven't ridden one but interested if the narrower width and if that makes it more agile... less rotational mass... still to dam long! But I am very keen to try one.

Yeti 129 - All round nice ... can still jump it... good on deep days but compare it to the narrower kits and a good rider will prefer those. 129 is a magic number for the average customer.

Yeti 129SS - I love it... does what the ARO does with the ski track width match up but just seems to do it a bit better. Lighter, less rotating mass.. very very nice. Put a less capable rider on it or someone very heavy.. hmmm much easier to trench then 129... it digs down really well in the wrong hands. But stays up on top and climbs really well in the right hands.

Yeti 120 - Good!... its the classic 120 width / length. Light.. excellent for jumping as its short!.. rides old school with track wider then the ski.

ARO 120 - Its good!.. is it harder to ride in deep powder then previous 120 hmmm I don't know yet!.. probably!!.. The new wide timbersled ski floats really well... back end stays lower then the classic 120... on really deep days you had better keep that momentum going... but it works!... it rides much more ski up/ *** end down then anything else... and constantly seems to climb up out as you ride. Definitely better on trails... but we haven't reached spring yet.. so will wait how it goes on really hard snow.


Hows the SS working on the mountain and powder?
 
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There were too many bikes with "all" kinds of modifications and a real mix of parts from different manufactures and some home made mods. Hate to admit but beyond my pay grade. The stock 120 ARO's on 2015 450KTMs were pretty much in the same stuck situation as my setup.
 
As I keep fine tuning it, gear changes, coupling, ski pressure etc. I'm getting better results. Riding up to a couple feet of powder but not handlebar deep which we almost never have in North Idaho. I definitely like the turning radius for loops and dead end road turn-a-rounds. My hope is the 129 compared to a wide 120 wider track would be a trade off via floatation.
 
As I keep fine tuning it, gear changes, coupling, ski pressure etc. I'm getting better results. Riding up to a couple feet of powder but not handlebar deep which we almost never have in North Idaho. I definitely like the turning radius for loops and dead end road turn-a-rounds. My hope is the 129 compared to a wide 120 wider track would be a trade off via floatation.

what gear change
 
I'm riding a 2016 YZ450f and I wasn't happy with the spacing between 2nd and 3rd when riding tight trees. 2nd seemed too low and 3rd was to high. I was always too uneven on the throttle in 2nd and in 3rd I am able to smooth it out. So I went from a 41 top gear to a 39.
I also like that gearing better for climbing. If I start out in 2nd and hit 3rd before I start climbing often I can finish the climb in 3rd or if needed hit 2nd to finish the run.

I did the same change on last years 120 yeti.
 
I'm riding a 2016 YZ450f and I wasn't happy with the spacing between 2nd and 3rd when riding tight trees. 2nd seemed too low and 3rd was to high. I was always too uneven on the throttle in 2nd and in 3rd I am able to smooth it out. So I went from a 41 top gear to a 39.
I also like that gearing better for climbing. If I start out in 2nd and hit 3rd before I start climbing often I can finish the climb in 3rd or if needed hit 2nd to finish the run.

I did the same change on last years 120 yeti.

what is top speed now?
 
I have to admit that I don't look at top speed. Most of our in routes are pretty nasty. Our group spends most of our setup efforts on trying to fine tune for the backcountry.

I know it has reduce the top end but it is so rare that I really want more speed. Guessing about 45 mph.
 
I have to admit that I don't look at top speed. Most of our in routes are pretty nasty. Our group spends most of our setup efforts on trying to fine tune for the backcountry.

I know it has reduce the top end but it is so rare that I really want more speed. Guessing about 45 mph.

nobody likes the trail but its annoying going slow , it just takes that much longer to get to the goods,The SS may prefer a higher gear ratio since theres less loaded track,,The Drivers on the SS are smaller than all other yetis and lowers the ratio quite a bit so cant it compare to the gearing ewer use to .
 
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It seems like everything you adjust (coupling/spring load/fork height/strut) affects at least two other settings. Then add in varying snow and terrain conditions on the same ride is all becomes very complicated.
If I set my gearing for tight trees it isn't as fun on the trail so I chose the tree riding set up. Then how good is it for steep and deep?
After several rides I think my 39 top gear is working for my sweet spots. For the last couple rides I have been adjusting the rear shock between trail and off trail to get the desired results from the ski pressure I need.
Out last ride we had eight riders with all kinds of bikes and kits. In the steep and deep there was only a few feet difference between us. On a couple climbs it took 3 or 4 different bikes to finally break through to the top.
Then put a young strong rider on the weakest bike - now it is the best set-up?-------

PS: I love the tight turning radius of the SS
 
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nobody likes the trail but its annoying going slow , it just takes that much longer to get to the goods,The SS may prefer a higher gear ratio since theres less loaded track,,The Drivers on the SS are smaller than all other yetis and lowers the ratio quite a bit so cant it compare to the gearing ewer use to .



I used to hate running the trail as well but now have managed to find a happy medium with suspension setup and did a six speed conversion and have a hoot running them. Don't get me wrong it's not my favorite part of the day but now that I got it dialled in as long as it isn't too whooped out or icy I'm running 6th pinned all the way up/down. I love passing sleds all the way to the top/bottom. Having my bike setup with a little better trail manners has also helped convert more sledder buddies to bikes. One of the big gripes about bikes is how they handle on the trail and watching most go down the trail it does look sketchy and a real chore. When sledders mention this to me I simply tell them to "follow me, and try to keep up". It's definitely worth the time to do some personal tuning for your specific bike and riding style. If everyone did this I think the idea that the bikes handle so poorly on them would be a lot less.
 
If anyone wants to try out some Yeti SS kits, Geoff Kyle's Freeride has 4 new bikes and 129SS kits for guided trips. Good chance you will get to see a SnowtechMX kit in there too ;)

GKFreeride.com

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For those who have ridden one, how much do you think the narrower rail spacing contributes to the improved handling/performance of the SS compared to just having a narrower track?
 
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