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XP Turbo Build

Thanks for the pics Taylor, pics always help me!

I am going to leave oil injection in place, and run a BOV, along with a boost controller. I will fab up my own bracket for the hood and lights, I ordered my pressure relief valve today, will start in on the pipe and carbs today or tomorrow.

Thanks to everyone so far with all the great info, every sled has its tricks for turboing, so it's great to have the support!

Thanks

Jeff
 
not to be a dink but that bracket is almost identical to the one from ski doo race team they use on there mod race sleds, and almost half price from doo.

They doo work nice either way I was running one on my sled before the turbo and will still run it, not using any headlights, I am running a mountain fit headlight delete and going to put an intake up where the headlights would be to get nice cold air I will take a picture when I get all the plastics on the sled

How does a person get the race parts? Is there a site to see what is available? Also I can't find the mountain fit headlight delete. Do you know if this is something they discontinued or who else makes one?
 
Thanks

Thanks for the tips. I run the XP Aero 66 setup on my '04 REV. I only have run on issues at lower altitudes so the BOV is up in the air. I bought a 2011 P-TEK this spring and I'm using that here at home at lower elevation. Modifications never end, and I have more time and ideas than money so that sucks. A few more minor adjustments to the engine setup, and then its back to clutching, gearing, suspension and track setup. All of which are good, but not great!
 
Hey Guys

Going to start into the carbs here shortly, while I have them out can you guys suggest jetting we ride between 5500'- 8500'.

Thanks

Jeff
 
Jetting

I run 360 mains w/ 07 needles on position 3 @ 3500 - 6500 ft. I think most guys riding those elevations are using 340 mains in their XP's. I don't know what else they're doing to carbs though.
 
340 sound perfect to start w/. Unsure of if the aero makes a difference on pilot jets, but I'd start w/ 15's and go from there. I know some guys are running 12.5's, but they are generally higher in elevation. I honestly have no idea what are in mine they are stripped and won't back out. I can make mine lean pop if I turn the white screws (low speed fuel adj--I think) down below 1 turn, so I figure they are fine and I don't "need to know". I'm running 360's from 4000 to 11,000. At 11 powerjets are completely off and slightly rich if temps start to go over 45 F. At 4000, I still have powerjet left (below 0 degrees F, I run wide open, but don't ride much when it's that cold any way).

When I get my second set of powerjets installed, I am going to try to go down to 320 or 300 and use the powerjets in the bellows for the majority of the tuning, shorten the tubes on my powerjets mounted through the top of my carbs, and use for fine tuning wide open throttle.
 
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I run anywhere from 8-12 lbs depending on elevation, 50/50 premium and 110. Going to try an avgas blend this year. Have to keep it at 8 or higher to stay ahead of the 860's I ride w/.
 
I run anywhere from 8-12 lbs depending on elevation, 50/50 premium and 110. Going to try an avgas blend this year. Have to keep it at 8 or higher to stay ahead of the 860's I ride w/.

You will be happy running AV Gas that's all I have run in both my turbos and it's by far the best fuel for the job.

Jeff
 
sorry to thread jack but running 340's at 6-8000ft with 12-1 comp head at 7-8psi I should be ok?

It should be plenty safe as starting point to see what your sled likes for jetting because they all will be a little different. Same goes for fuel pressure. My sled performs better w/ 5-6 lbs base pressure others like 3-4. You'll have to play w/ it. The other thing to remember is, if your sled is lean, and you've run out of powerjet, you can crank up the fuel pressure some and get more fuel. It'll effect your off/on but keeps you from having to pull the carbs and rejet. The converse works also, if your too rich, you can drop pressure, just have to make sure your still getting enough to keep up w/ the demand of the turbo as boost builds.
 
Alright we are going to run 340 mains 15 pilots. Is everyone just leaving the needles alone? Also with the power jets should I open them about half way for initial ride and then just watch my egts to see which way to adjust from there?

Thanks

Jeff
 
Got a few things done yesterday, got the fittings in the carb bowls, got the power jets installed, got the bellows glued and wired and also got the egt fittings welded on to the y-pipe

When I went to start in on the pipe, removing the stinger, the previous owner had beat me to it:whoo: so all I have to do on that is re weld the factory weld and that portion of the project is done.

Pretty soon I can get on to the good stuff!

Jeff

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your going to be able to turn that back power jet with that piece of fuel line is what your figuring? thats a good idea. gonna go do that to mine now.
 
I tried that trick with the piece of fuel line to the inside carb and found that it kept turning itself open.
 
Fuel jets

Open the fuel jets 2 1/2 turns open to start. You'll find it may bobble a bit or be slugish at wide-open throttle, just turn them back until it runs crisp! Then fine tune based on EGT's. At least thats how mine works. It doesn't matter if I'm here at home w/ 400 mains at 2500 ft or in the mountains w/ 340's at 6500 ft,, it runs the best w/ the powerjets (2) turns open! I honestly can't remember what my EGT's are on a long pull. I think they run 1150's and My probes might be out from the piston skirt slightly more than where you've put yours. I know temps have gone higher. My plugs tell me I run on the lean side, they are light brown. It runs so good there, I try to open the fuel jets slightly to keep my temps down, but it just doesn't pull as hard at wide-open throttle. It just works the best right on the edge! 1200 miles and no probs other than the cracked pipe, blown bellows, intake boot syndrome, which I'm confident I've finally solved through trial and error, not to mention all the help I got from the users on this site. Looking good! Keep up the work.
 
just was curious on the picture of the weld in the center of the pipe? no need to touch that seam at all, just the outside ones you need to weld up good.
 
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