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Worst case scenerio for a primary that wont come off

I just got off the phone with the service manager at the shop where I brought my sled. He says my 900 should make it into the shop this afternoon, I am going to let them give it one more shot since it's already there, and 3 hours away from me.
I told him to stop short of any cutting, he says he is going to try a larger more powerful impact with application of heat. If they get her to pop I'll be more than happy to pay a little labor charge, at least I don't have to rebuild that clutch right now.
If they can't get it with their methods, I'll go get my sled and continue dealing with it at home.

Thanks again to everyone who chimed in with advice, I kinda wish I had held on to the sled to deal with myself now, but you know how it goes with wanting to ride NOW haha. I figured they could get it done faster than me, and at that point I also needed the clutch rebuilt which I don't have the tools to do myself.
You guys rock, and this 900 sub is more valuable than any tool in my shop!
 
well i hope you get it off soon so you can go ride again, thats to bad. atleast you got a engine that runs! lol mine should be done by next week.
 
Thanks triple, I hope so too, I'm having 2 stroke smoke withdrawals!
I was just reading your build thread, good luck with the last bit of work you have left!
 
I would let your dealer take it off. Thay way when your crank snaps off you can try to blame them
 
I would let your dealer take it off. Thay way when your crank snaps off you can try to blame them
Blame and getting them to cover it is 2 totally different things, exspeciallay if they already know you've tried. Not triin' to take the wind out of anyones sail, just bein' realistic....
 
My clutch is off! I am happy.
They ended up using a 3/4" impact and heat.... $75.00 labor.
I probably could have come up with those resources and gotten it done myself but oh well, it's done and didn't cost me a whole lot. Now I just have to swap my spring and weights over to the new clutch and torque it on. :beer;:)
Thanks to everyone for the advice, it will come in handy next time I am sure.
 
A 3/4 in. impact puts out what 600ft.lbs. of torque? I bet you won't get more than 500 miles on your crank before it blows.
 
I know and trust the mechanic, he regulated the air to the gun, and used nowhere near the full power available.
 
yea but why would it make a differance what foot pounds the impact puts out?? the only part of the crank its putting presure on is the tip to take the clutch off. the impact is twisting the clutch puller so i dont see why that would put strain on the crank shaft? anyone wanna put something else on this.
 
The torque and hammering from the impact is rotational but it's highly debated whether or not this is harmful to the crank and bearings.
I personally would rather use an impact gun than hit the puller with a hammer any more than a light tap. Others opinions will differ.
 
I know the clutch is off, but another method I didn't notice mentioned was to remove the bolt, lay the sled on its side, fill the cavity with water, use a bolt (not a puller) with the same threads as the puller and do 4-5 wraps of teflon tape leaving the first 2-3 threads clear to get it started. Thread it in....as long as NO water can get past the threads it will come off....even stubborn clutches often come off so easily you can hold the clutch from turning with your hand (or so I've been told by several people with stubborn clutches). One guy also heated the shaft at the same time. Never heard of a case where this has NOT worked, and alot of guys seem to be doing this instead of buying a puller since you can usually use the same bolt that holds the clutch on. :beer;
 
yea but why would it make a differance what foot pounds the impact puts out?? the only part of the crank its putting presure on is the tip to take the clutch off. the impact is twisting the clutch puller so i dont see why that would put strain on the crank shaft? anyone wanna put something else on this.

I agree. I think that the biggest strains are from when the clutch actually lets go. I'd bet this is the cause for the cracks in the circlip retaining grooves.
 
good info from everyone. it will be nice to have the next time i pull my clutches. i HATE having to use a hammer. thanks again, glad you got the clutch off.

pv
 
A 3/4 in. impact puts out what 600ft.lbs. of torque? I bet you won't get more than 500 miles on your crank before it blows.
Come on dude, think positive! That's like telling someone "with that kind of power you'll hit a tree" The gentelman ask for advise and know how, I just might BET YOU!!! Just for kicks and principle. God forbid you ever get stuck on something, oh wait you never have problems.:D:beer;:present:
 
I know the clutch is off, but another method I didn't notice mentioned was to remove the bolt, lay the sled on its side, fill the cavity with water, use a bolt (not a puller) with the same threads as the puller and do 4-5 wraps of teflon tape leaving the first 2-3 threads clear to get it started. Thread it in....as long as NO water can get past the threads it will come off....even stubborn clutches often come off so easily you can hold the clutch from turning with your hand (or so I've been told by several people with stubborn clutches). One guy also heated the shaft at the same time. Never heard of a case where this has NOT worked, and alot of guys seem to be doing this instead of buying a puller since you can usually use the same bolt that holds the clutch on. :beer;
same bolt?
 
Don't think that's possible since the actual clutch bolt threads into the crank.
I would assume you would use a bolt that threads into the clutch, like the puller does.
yeah, that's what I was gettin' at, I thought there is a "magic" bolt out west! I pretty sure he's talkin about the threads for the puller as to fill up so it will push agaist the crank when frozen.
 
just fyi

I have worked at a dealership for 14 years and have faught the nastiest clutches out there. I have done everything that you all have posted, and for the most part a half inch gun and heat usually works most of the time.

What I found works best on a stubborn clutch is to fill the entire center section of the clutch (where the puller and bolt goes) and then run the clutch puller into the clutch. Since there is no where for the grease to go once the puller is installed, it acts like a hydrolic puller. Once the clutch is off, yes you do have a bit of work to clean all the grease out of, but look at the bright side. No damage done, no hammers, just a little grease.
 
Nice!

I see there's no such thing as "PERSONAL RESPONSIBILITY" in your life.

The responsibility should go to Polaris. When the 900 started to break crank stubs off their fix was to retorque the bolt to 96ft lbs. From the factory it was 65ft.lbs. Instead of fixing the problem of bad cranks they found a way to make most of them last longer than the warranty. Now lots of people are having problems getting their clutches off. These cranks are weak and the less beating and impact guns you use the better. I'm not trying to be an ***, I'm just trying to save you some money.
 
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