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Working on Nytrocity this summer

you have to admit the Nytro Air-frame hood is one of the better looking mesh hoods out there due to its natural shape. I am sure they work well to evacuate heat out of a tight engine compartment for sure. the only down side if there is one would be that they are not cheap. you can powder coat the metal frame and add even more bling IMO.:face-icon-small-coo
 
Ya, Jeff convinced me to order one and put it to the test next season.
Probably not possible to get TOO MUCH cold air over that super charger.


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With BLUE powder coating to match all the rest of the metal on Nytrocity it should look GORGEOUS!
 
I have thought about it but taking the tunnel off the sled is way above my level of technical expertise.!

If I was going to go that route, I would probably just go for a whole custom fab tunnel instead.


Sent from my Apple iPhone 4S using the TapaTalk app.
 
dang, wish i could get my arms. im just hoping i get them by snowfall at this point... customer service has been poor for me from many of the aftermarket companies that sell yammy stuff this summer.
 
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I would go back to the shop and ask to cancel the order.
There are several vendors here on SnoWest that have them IN STOCK and can ship them to you TODAY.
 
Got the Seat and the Fuel tank off the sled this afternoon and started hunting for the source of that coolant leak that shut me down in Canada last spring.

So far no holes, but I do seem some signs of vibration abrasion that will have to be dealt with so they DON'T become future leaks!

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Where we usually see leaks in the system are either the new billit water elbow on the front of the motor or the tubes to the tunnel cooler dont get tightened very well. Usually though the new water elbow that accepts the water temp sending unit will have loose fittings from mpi even though the are supposedly tight from them. Either that or the piece isnt tightened down well enough or the o-ring isnt seated correctly. Just my .02 on the water issue as we have seen it a few times before.

As for the hoses rubbing or showing signs of rubbing, its no big deal as they do that even stock, its a tight fit under there but wont have any ill effects because of it.
 
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Thanks.
Next step is to fill up the system and put a pump on it to pressurize it and see if we can get it to start leaking.
 
It will never leak in the shop. Pressurize it and and haul it up to 8000 feet and count on it not to leak. But not where you can see it. :face-icon-small-win
 
You sure its a leak the engine isn't drinking it? Shouldn't be that hard to find especially one that is large enough to shut you down. As info my SC apex pushes out coolant if I fill it to the stock line until the main resivour is almost empty then it stops and doesn't lose a drop in fact I haven't added to it for 3 years now. Just a quirk of the Sc making things hotter and the coolant expands more then stock.
 
Sorry, got a mean streak a mile wide. BTW, totally agree with Kinger. Engines seem to find their own level. Doesn't matter what the reservoir says or is marked and I have seen this in race cars, snowmobiles etc. Fill it a little over the line and if it pukes out coolant try and fill it to the line but remember where the engine "wanted" to be. If is resets itself to that spot again and holds steady that is the "line". No more, no less. Now if it's a constant thing where it doesn't stop but just keeps leaking you have an issue to solve.
 
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