Who has the best method for removing hood foam?
- Thread starter polaris6
- Start date
I have tried lots of methods. A little heat and a plastic scraper seems to get most of it off with minimal effort. And then the best trick of alll...use duct tape wrap around hand with sticky side out and start patting the foam and glue residue you won't believe it. The foam and glue will stick to the tape and within a few minutes the hood will look like it never had anything stuck to it.
now thats a good trick.
I gently tug and use a single edge razor.
wire wheel in a drill. makes a mess, but nothings faster
K
kbl6z
Well-known member
X2 on this method
I did this and it was messy. Lot's of elbow grease. I think trying to keep it dry might be the ticket. The more you can get off with a dryer the less mess you will have.
I guess I figured it would work pretty good once the majority of the foam was off. I have left all the foam on mine but removed all the warning decals so far and was impressed on how good it worked for removing the glue left from the decals.
M
MNSLEDNECK56308
Well-known member
3M adhesive remover, works will for the leftover after the heat gun to remove foam.
C
cantrideinmn
Member
whats the purpose of removing the foam? Are you talking the foam under the hood?
E
EricW
Well-known member
In the past I have used a heat gun and a single edge razor (the window scraping type) as mentioned above. I got best results by starting off with a good clean cut n pull. As soon as you notice that you are leaving material during the pull, stop pulling and start again using the razor to pick up the residual. The trick seems to be constant/steady pressure with just enough under cut to keep it peeling. You want to stop every so often and re heat sink it with the heat gun or hair dryer.
Sounds like a lot but it really goes pretty fast if you get a clean start. The other trick is to reover the foamed area with heat tape. This not only protects the panels, it also covers up any residual that was left behind. When I did it on the last Dragon I didn't use any liquid remover. I just did a careful job and covered the rest with heat tape.
I have seen heat tape in many annodized colors and width's. I just layed it in straight strips and used a razor knife to cut around and edges or openings. Worked pretty well. EW
Sounds like a lot but it really goes pretty fast if you get a clean start. The other trick is to reover the foamed area with heat tape. This not only protects the panels, it also covers up any residual that was left behind. When I did it on the last Dragon I didn't use any liquid remover. I just did a careful job and covered the rest with heat tape.
I have seen heat tape in many annodized colors and width's. I just layed it in straight strips and used a razor knife to cut around and edges or openings. Worked pretty well. EW
O
Oregonsledder
Well-known member
To answer your question. The reason guys remove the foam is to reduce heat build up under he panels. Sled manufactures put it there to help meet EPA noise restrictions. The foam is acoustic foam.
O
Oregonsledder
Well-known member
In the past I have used a heat gun and a single edge razor (the window scraping type) as mentioned above. I got best results by starting off with a good clean cut n pull. As soon as you notice that you are leaving material during the pull, stop pulling and start again using the razor to pick up the residual. The trick seems to be constant/steady pressure with just enough under cut to keep it peeling. You want to stop every so often and re heat sink it with the heat gun or hair dryer.
Sounds like a lot but it really goes pretty fast if you get a clean start. The other trick is to reover the foamed area with heat tape. This not only protects the panels, it also covers up any residual that was left behind. When I did it on the last Dragon I didn't use any liquid remover. I just did a careful job and covered the rest with heat tape.
I have seen heat tape in many annodized colors and width's. I just layed it in straight strips and used a razor knife to cut around and edges or openings. Worked pretty well. EW
Just a question?? does adding heat tape trap heat like the foam that was removed??
Last edited:
I spent a few hours pulling the foam of the PTO side panel on my 11 SB assault. used a paint scraper and goo gone. it pulled much of the silver coating off, and would like to protect the panels.
where can you pick up some of that black heat tape?
where can you pick up some of that black heat tape?
In the past I have used a heat gun and a single edge razor (the window scraping type) as mentioned above. I got best results by starting off with a good clean cut n pull. As soon as you notice that you are leaving material during the pull, stop pulling and start again using the razor to pick up the residual. The trick seems to be constant/steady pressure with just enough under cut to keep it peeling. You want to stop every so often and re heat sink it with the heat gun or hair dryer.
Sounds like a lot but it really goes pretty fast if you get a clean start. The other trick is to reover the foamed area with heat tape. This not only protects the panels, it also covers up any residual that was left behind. When I did it on the last Dragon I didn't use any liquid remover. I just did a careful job and covered the rest with heat tape.
I have seen heat tape in many annodized colors and width's. I just layed it in straight strips and used a razor knife to cut around and edges or openings. Worked pretty well. EW
G
gman086
Well-known member
Use aluminum HVAC tape from Home Depot - works like a champ and costs a lot less than heat tape!
As for removal - the Pro was a BEEATCH! Hey Poo, tone down your adhesive for the mtn sleds will ya? We're all gonna pull that garbage out anyway. Even toluene (one of world's strongest solvents) had problems removing it!
Have FUN!
G MAN
O
Oregonsledder
Well-known member
The best tip on this thread was to use duct tape to remove the residual glue. I tried several serious solvents, but gave up and tried the duct tape... worked like a charm!
