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I did the Mntkt about the same miles as you. Zero issues before like you but it was never stock. IMO a controller on a '13 adds power and life but you are the proof it can survive without it too lol.
My stock pistons were only 1 thou smaller than the replacements so my pistons did not collapse but the rings and lands were worn. I had ordered and purchased the kit before I took it apart so installed it. Had I taken it apart first I may have cleaned up the ports (reason for my ring failure not piston rock) and gone stock again. the CFI port configuration combined with excessive chamfer from the factory left very little ring support on my cylinders.
Doing the top end is fairly easy but in would be nice to have a second set of hands during monoblock installation. Bleeding the system is as simple as blocking up the front of the sled so the motor is higher than the heat exchangers and burbing it twice.
Couple of things; The pistons in my kit had a steeper crown (1 and a bit degrees) so stick with stock head or talk to MNTKT if that is in your plans.
I purchased my kit based on answers and experiences I got from phone calls. You should too IMO. Especially if you feel you might farm out the installation. Pick someone who has done a few. Things like deglaze, break-in, ring sizing are all just as important a not forgetting the piston pin c-clip lol. The tech or shop with more experience is a better pick no matter which kit they are using.
Don't be afraid of stock. Many top shops still recommend and use stock. Most of these shops are rebuilders not parts installers. After I took mine apart I think I saw why. Just remember the recommended mileage intervals. What you or your tech find (make sure they provide you this too, proves they are rebuilding not just replacing) when you take yours apart will tell you what you need to know for your intervals.
It has to make you think when you read about high milers but it might not pertain to your sled anyway. For instance My sled is the smoothest running twin I have ever had in a sled. But some vibrate from the get go.
Durability lol. IMO real information between the kits is not out there. Info like before and after measurements after x # of miles is real hard to find. Either techs and shops don't keep a journal or don't care to share. On the 'net anyway.
My phone calls showed the Mntkt kit to be out the longest and used the most with good results. Not measurements but comfort in #'s. That was my reason for pre-purchasing that kit.
Hope it helps lol but you are asking a very often asked question with a very un answered history
My 13 pistons weren't that bad either (1300 miles). When I told Kelsey my clearance he thought they must of been flatland miles until I told him how much and which oil I used. My rings were another story, badly flaked and had major power loss by the end of last year... Rethought my Motoman break in procedure. lol
I have a 14 pro 800 with 900 miles. I believe about 500 were flat land from the impression I got from the previous owner. I want to take the best possible care of this machine. What should I be looking for in regards to a motor with this amount of miles? I was thinking of riding this season and then putting the BMP Durability Kit in it. I am running Legend ZX-2SR oil. (I live close to the manufacturer and hear is a great product). Should I be taking the motor apart or is simply doing a compression test all that is necessary? Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.
If you research it enough, as I have, you'll find the Polaris 800 engine issues are over-hyped a bit. MY '13 and newer are pretty solid engines. If you haven't already, you'll want to get an improved oil cap. Then check your oil usage. If you're less than 50:1, turn up your oiler until you get there. Other than that, just ride it and enjoy it. Do a compression check a couple times a year (should be about 120psi). If you give your 2014 engine enough oil, it'll go for 5-6k miles, easily, before you need new pistons.
No one has mentioned IndyDans top end rebuild using OEM pistons and his honing on OEM cylinders to spec? Has anyone used this kit? I am really leaning this route planning on keeping it 3 more years and it only has 1300 miles on my '13 was rebuilt at 57 miles when it broke a skirt obviousley it's a bit more expensive than the other kits but his work is very quality from what I understand
No one has mentioned IndyDans top end rebuild using OEM pistons and his honing on OEM cylinders to spec? Has anyone used this kit? I am really leaning this route planning on keeping it 3 more years and it only has 1300 miles on my '13 was rebuilt at 57 miles when it broke a skirt obviousley it's a bit more expensive than the other kits but his work is very quality from what I understand
I have an indy dan long rod engine, just installed his new HG7 finish cyl and new pistons. It is a tight fitting setup (no rock or piston movement at TDC like every other poo engine i have seen).
I am not sure if he sells just a top end but if he does i would go that way. The new cyl finish is amazing compared to the old style.
Yeah he sells a kit with new jugs and pistons then spec'd ang HG7 finished just wondered if anyone else tried it I know you get what you pay for so that's prolly why it's $1200
It's $1200 but you get $500 back for a core charge if I'm seeing it right. $250 less for pro x pistons. 3 year warranty on lower sleeve breakage. Tough to beat that I think. Check it out on his eBay store