When a BR9ECS isn't a BR9ECS

[kodpkd]

Caution... If you have an old box of BR9ECS, you better check them if you are putting them in your 800R engine.... The older plugs are gapped at .018 in. The required gap for your R engine is .030 in. The box is labled the same for both plugs. The newer NGK has a -5 if it is the smaller gap .018 as BR9ECS-5. And nothing if it is the larger gap BR9ECS .030. Also be careful if you buy the NGK from a non Ski-Doo shop. They may not be the correct gap. Also, you cannot gap these plugs, they come pre gapped. If you do try to gap them - you could destroy them. I am not sure if a smaller gap can hurt your engine, but I think too large of gap could do some damage. Be careful not to put the .030 gap pluge in your older DOO's.

 

[sledhed]

Caution... If you have an old box of BR9ECS, you better check them if you are putting them in your 800R engine.... The older plugs are gapped at .018 in. The required gap for your R engine is .030 in. The box is labled the same for both plugs. The newer NGK has a -5 if it is the smaller gap .018 as BR9ECS-5. And nothing if it is the larger gap BR9ECS .030. Also be careful if you buy the NGK from a non Ski-Doo shop. They may not be the correct gap. Also, you cannot gap these plugs, they come pre gapped. If you do try to gap them - you could destroy them. I am not sure if a smaller gap can hurt your engine, but I think too large of gap could do some damage. Be careful not to put the .030 gap pluge in your older DOO's.

Thanks for the info! I have an older Doo and would not have though to look at the gap... I have been getting plugs at NAPA for 1/2 the price or less of the Doo dealer...

 

[snowmobiler]

the skidoo dealer sold me 2 BR9ECS-5 for 25 bucks to put in my 09 800.tried to take them back and they said you have the right plugs

 

[banditpowdercoat]

Plugs should ALLWAYS be gaped. Just because they may be set at factory, doesn't lean they are that way.

 

[rockymking]

Thanks kodpkd ... good info.

These plugs have 2 different part #'s. '07 800R uses BR9ECS and recommended gap is 0.030 +/- 0.002" but will run fine with the lesser gap plug. I've run both and noticed no difference using either. BR9ECS-5 does seem to get carbon deposits a little quicker but that could be from many other variables besides gap(elevation, temp.,snow conditions, fuel quality, etc).

BR9ECS-5 = part #6669
Gap = 0.5mm(0.0197")

BR9ECS = part #4677
Gap = 0.8mm(0.0315")

Both these plugs are short electrode style and are NOT supposed to be gapped ... check them out of the box before install; bad gap, get a new plug!

 

[snowmobiler]

ok.good for spares.thanks

 

[rockymking]

ok.good for spares.thanks

The gap I quoted is for the '07 ... straight from the race manual. What is the recommended gap for the 08-09 XP's??? Doubt they'd change it but who knows with those BRP guys Recommended gap will determine which plug to use.

 

[NoSecondChances]

Plugs should ALLWAYS be gaped. Just because they may be set at factory, doesn't lean they are that way.

I always cut the ground electrode in two, split it and then re-gap my plugs as well. Why can't these ones be gapped???

 

[banditpowdercoat]

I always cut the ground electrode in two, split it and then re-gap my plugs as well. Why can't these ones be gapped???

NSC, show do you split the electrode? Home made Splitfires. I like the idea. If anyone is wondering, the spark goes from the sharp edge/corner's of the ground electrode to the center electrode. And, after a while, the sharp corner/edges wear off. This leads to the electricity having no easy place to starts it's arc. The Splitfire style plugs have a ground electrode in a Y shape. Double the edges. The Spark living corners are not doubled. Plugs usually last longer before the edges wear off...

 

[rockymking]

I always cut the ground electrode in two, split it and then re-gap my plugs as well. Why can't these ones be gapped???

It's not that they can't be gapped but with the short ground electrode, it's difficult to change the gap and keep it aligned with the center electrode. NGK recommends not changing the gap on these style plugs but I've done it. It's just easier and more reliable to buy the plugs with the correct gap.

The home made "Split-Fire" sounds interesting ... got any pics? Pretty ingenious NSC

 

[BC-XP]

It can definitely be confusing.

08 xp = #4677 as mentioned above


If you go to www.ngk.ca and search for skidoo plugs it can still be confusing. 2006 800 summit lists both 4677 & 6669

2007 lists 4677

no 2008 or 2009 listed

www.ngk.com only goes to 2006

Best bet is to call your local dealer and ask what the ngk product number (4677) is on the box they are selling for your year of sled, then go to you local parts store and buy them for half price.

 

[NoSecondChances]

It's not that they can't be gapped but with the short ground electrode, it's difficult to change the gap and keep it aligned with the center electrode. NGK recommends not changing the gap on these style plugs but I've done it. It's just easier and more reliable to buy the plugs with the correct gap.

The home made "Split-Fire" sounds interesting ... got any pics? Pretty ingenious NSC

No pics sorry guys, I could take some later and can post maybe tomorrow. We have been doing this for years on race motors, long before Splitfire was in business...learned it from a guy who used to build motors for Nascar.

You need to get a jeweler's saw (or very fine toothed thin blade saw similar to a scroll saw blade) or a coping saw/fret saw with a very thin blade. Thinner the better as you would "saw" away most of the ground electrode if you tried to use something like a hacksaw blade. Coping saw at max, but if you can get a hold of a jeweler's saw or saw blade, they are very thin and can still cut metal. Sometimes they are pricey so a coping will do, just get a very thin blade. Have I said "thin" enough?? Its kinda the important part...LOL Anyway....

Split your ground electrode down the middle and almost all the way down to where it meets the threads (yes, past the curve) just leave a little bit of the ground electrode joined at the end (maybe 1/16"?). Then split and bend the "2" ground electrodes to the sides of the center electrode, and gap them accordingly from the side of the center electrode. This way the spark has to jump horizontally from the center to the ground electrode, fully exposing it to the intake charge.

On some plugs (depending on the center electrode length and how far it protrudes) they don't quite reach all the way down to the side, so then I just "Y" them as much as possible and gap them from the end and the side as close as possible. In a conventional spark plug, the spark is shrouded from the air/fuel and produces an uneven flame kernel due to the fact that at some point, it has to go around or is blocked by the protruding ground electrode (even if the spark plug gap between the ground and center electrodes is indexed towards the intake port - which is the preferred position). The key is to unshroud the spark as much as possible for the flame kernel to produce an even burn across the combustion chamber.

 

[kodpkd]

Good thread.. But, it isn't that they are hard to gap. the center electrode can be destroyed in you mess with it. The older boxes of BR9ECS don't have the -5 on them. So if you have old plugs, or buy them from WalMart, you don't really know what you have.

 

[kodpkd]

the skidoo dealer sold me 2 BR9ECS-5 for 25 bucks to put in my 09 800.tried to take them back and they said you have the right plugs

HUMMM.. He is wrong. Maybe an idiot. If you asked & he still didn't know or at least check it out,,, yea,, an idiot..

 

[snowmobiler]

ya owners manual says .030 gap

 

[rockymking]

No pics sorry guys, I could take some later and can post maybe tomorrow. We have been doing this for years on race motors, long before Splitfire was in business...learned it from a guy who used to build motors for Nascar.

You need to get a jeweler's saw (or very fine toothed thin blade saw similar to a scroll saw blade) or a coping saw/fret saw with a very thin blade. Thinner the better as you would "saw" away most of the ground electrode if you tried to use something like a hacksaw blade. Coping saw at max, but if you can get a hold of a jeweler's saw or saw blade, they are very thin and can still cut metal. Sometimes they are pricey so a coping will do, just get a very thin blade. Have I said "thin" enough?? Its kinda the important part...LOL Anyway....

Split your ground electrode down the middle and almost all the way down to where it meets the threads (yes, past the curve) just leave a little bit of the ground electrode joined at the end (maybe 1/16"?). Then split and bend the "2" ground electrodes to the sides of the center electrode, and gap them accordingly from the side of the center electrode. This way the spark has to jump horizontally from the center to the ground electrode, fully exposing it to the intake charge.

On some plugs (depending on the center electrode length and how far it protrudes) they don't quite reach all the way down to the side, so then I just "Y" them as much as possible and gap them from the end and the side as close as possible. In a conventional spark plug, the spark is shrouded from the air/fuel and produces an uneven flame kernel due to the fact that at some point, it has to go around or is blocked by the protruding ground electrode (even if the spark plug gap between the ground and center electrodes is indexed towards the intake port - which is the preferred position). The key is to unshroud the spark as much as possible for the flame kernel to produce an even burn across the combustion chamber.

Thanks for the description NSC ... that's a pretty detailed write-up of the "ground electrode split mod". Once again, pretty ingenious man

 

[muttrmk]

I had heard that the reason that they switched to the ECS was to get a stronger ground electrode than the BR9ES. When you cut them in half, I would think that it could break off very easily. Have you ever had that happen?
Thanks,
Mutt

 

[CATillak]

Our SRX took BR9ecs-5.. Caused a lot of trouble running the non 5 plugs in it and vice versa for my rev lol, they need to make cheaper plugs also, 6.71 cents is rediculous for a plug

 

[JROD]

Learned from an engine builder

I've ran BR9ES plugs in my 800HO Rev as recommended by my engine builder. I've been running them for years gapped at 0.030 and never had a single issue. Sled never skips a beat. Supposedly the ECS plugs are less prone to cause detonation. Never had a problem with that either. They sure like to rape you for a set of ECSs though.

 

[800Gader]

ECS has brittle ground.

These plugs are not to be gapped because of the metal used to make them more durable. If they are bent to change the gap, there's a very good chance the ground will break off and cause problems.