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What's the scoop on the new Polaris oil?

What about IndyDan's advise to run non synthetics? I think he see's enough cranks and engines to justify his knowledge. Same performance, plus a much lower price seems like the way to go! Don't know if your exhaust valves will be THAT MUCH dirtier anyway. Its probably a good idea to clean you exhaust valves once a year as it is.:beer;

Indydan just had a post not to long ago with an 800 he had apart that had over 3000 boosted miles and it looked good. That guy claims to have used redline full synthetic since day one. It didn't show his rings or pistons but the bottom end looked good. I am going to run the Poo blended for the first couple of hundred and then switch to the new VES Plus.
 
Running the blue in the oil tank for the first 2 tanks of gas for break in is Polaris' recommendation.
 
My dealer recommended break in on the Blue too. They gave me a gallon with my new sled so I put quart in the gas tank and filled up the oil tank. When it gets low I'll refill with Amsoil.
 
I talked to my dealer and Carl's about break in today and they both said a pint of blue in tank and gold in the oil tank, not blue in oil tank.
 
I take Indy Dan's word over any companys snake oil pitch. I'm running $18.00 jugs of cheap castrol oil all this year. I ran Ves gold all last year, went through 6 jugs of the stuff!! Love the smell, but exhaust valves were dirty as hell. And really, as if sledding isn't expensive enough, let alone spending $50 bucks on a jug of oil that smells good. Give me a break!!!:beer;
 
Looked at the jug of oil The dealer gave me and it is actually Gold oil, I just thought it was blue since it is in a blue jug, duh. It has been years since I bought Polaris oil and if I remember right when they first came out with gold VES oil it actually came in a gold jug.
 
I talked to my dealer and Carl's about break in today and they both said a pint of blue in tank and gold in the oil tank, not blue in oil tank.


I was told to fill up my sled with gas as they (Carl's) added the oil to my fuel tank already. Maybe I'm wrong??
 
Do you have a link to this info? I'm sort of a rating kinda guy. I like to see the specifications on the oils. Sounds like they possibly lowered the cold pour from what you are saying. If the dang stuff was rated we could easily see if it went from an FC to an FD rating. Thus telling us it is burning cleaner. They don't even have the spec sheet that I could find online. I'm sure it's a plenty good oil. I just wish they would tell us something about it other than this is what they recommend. That doesn't work for me. I like to see numbers and ratings, but hey that's just me. I know there is nothing wrong with the oil and it works just fine.
Me too.

On my '09 RMK 800, I siphoned all the VES Gold out of the oil tank and I'm putting in Polaris Blue (standard) oil in for the first tank or two of gas. From what I read, it will help seat the rings vs. using the VES Gold. Anyone else have thoughts on this?

IndyDan, did you ever find out if there was actually a difference between the Polaris blue and VES oil? I remember reading a thread on it a year or two ago.

This is the thread I was referring to: http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114257&highlight=ves+gold
I think what he meant was Poo was shipping the Poo blend oil (Blue) in the tanks of the sleds (that are labeled "Use VES"), but that it wasn't actually blue- they had the dye removed.

I talked to my dealer and Carl's about break in today and they both said a pint of blue in tank and gold in the oil tank, not blue in oil tank.
What good does that do? You'll still be running a synthetic oil during the break in process.
 
I'm just gonna do what I did last year with zero engine problems. Run a quart of the blue in with the first tank of gas and run castrol super snowmobile oil in the tank for the first tank of oil.
 
For what it's worth, a recent post on another forum,

ASTM D2670

This is a comparison of anti-wear properties of popular 2 stroke snowmobile oils. This is an American Society for Testing Materials test that is a lubricant industry standard. This particular test incorporates 500 lbs of pressure on a steel pin and vee block for duration of 3.5 hours. There is a 5-minute break-in period with a 300 pound load. The overall wear is expressed in milligrams of lost metal.

The Results were as follows

BG Hi-Performance Snowmobile Oil, Part No. 784S 15.2 MILLIGRAMS OF LOST METAL
Bel-Ray MC-1 47.8
Bombardier XP-SII 66.3
Polaris Premium Gold Synthetic 82.5 milligrams of LOST METAL
Artic Cat Synthetic APV 112.9
Redline 2-Stroke Racing Oil 144.3
Maxima Castor 927 156.4

These Products failed to reach the required testing pressure of 500 pounds.
• Amsoil High Performance 2-Cycle Injector Oil
• Amsoil Series 2000 2-Cycle Racing Oil
• Artic Cat Extreme
• Bombardier Injection Oil
• Fuchs Silcolene Comp 2 Pre Mix
• Klotz Techniplate Snowmobile Oil
• Klotz Techniplate R-50 Racing Oil
• Torco GP-7 Two Stoke Racing Oil
• Yamalube 2-R Racing Oil

This Oil failed 90 minutes into the test.
• Motul 800 Factory Line

This Oil failed 100 minutes into the test.
* Polaris Premium 2-Cycle
 
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Good info Kraven, thanks.

Correct me if I am wrong but the specs may come into play more prominatly during the break-in period. Then I have to wonder how the difference between 115mg to 15 mg effects anything in the real world. Also in a two stroke motor we have brand new fresh oil going into the motor at all times(for the most part). In oil testing even two stroke oil is tested for periods of time similar to 4 stroke motor usage. Tempature of the oil and all sorts of other characteristics come into play.
In a 4 stroke where you have filtered reused oil pumping back in again and again.

I found some good reading on Snogoer. Here is the link for the OIL article.
http://www.snowgoer.com/output.cfm?id=1051903

I suspect there is more to consider than just one specification. Also specs are always an interesting subject. Many specs are only nothing more than labratory results measured on equipment that has little bearing to how the product actually operates in the real world. Remember THD in Stereos..a great marketing tool. At a certain point it just doesnt make a difference other than on paper. Just my two cents..but I could have my head burried in something dark and smelly so who knows?
If a lubricant is certified ISO-L-EGD+ it has passed the most stringent tests set by American, Japanese and European engine manufacturers. Polaris only recommends VES II lubricants, Yamaha JASO FC and Ski-Doo/Sea-Doo requires ISO-L-EDG+ lubricants.

Examine the oil bottle of any oil in question and see what the highest level of certification is. It is generally accepted that if you use a lubricant that meets the ISO-L-EGD+ standard in your new snowmobile you will provide certified warranty compliance and protection.
 
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To run or not to run - new VES oil

Simple answer:

For those who think everything Polaris does is a corporate conspiracy of some sort: keep running Castrol.

For those who are optimistic that Polaris and Lubetech might actually have come up with something that's better for the engine: run the new oil.

The fact that the stuff pours almost like 4 stroke oil tells me that the new oil isn't just a tweak.........
 
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