What's the best powder track for 144" 800 RMK???

[Sundance Kid]

I live and ride in the Black Hills with occasional trips to the Big Horns and hopefully the Snowies this winter.
The 2" is probably good for 90% of our typical riding conditions since we don't get the big dumps of fluff like the big mountains.
I think I'll just start with the stock 2" but keep an eye out for a 2.4"

Trimming down the 2.4 makes me a little nervous remembering a Polaris competition track that I had to notch for the Pro X coolers.
In the race to bar at the end of the day, wipe open for 7-10 miles on the packed highway trail I lost probably 20%-30% of my lugs on that one run.
Lesson learned, notching = ruined track

 

[ccpowder]

Local shop says it's still available for $693 MSRP
How/who can trim a track down like you describe?
What about the screws and pattern?
I haven't heard someone say finger track in years!!!
I had one on a hillcross sled once, shouldn't have taken all the screws out.
Shredded about like one of the Polaris hard competition tracks they made 8-10 yrs ago.

You are crazy to pay that!! You can find new or nearly new stuff for $200-$300 on the high end.

I think I paid under $300 for a new 159" x 2.4".... Call Carl's Cycle!!

Why not just keep 2 tracks around, 1 for the mountains and 1 for the fltalands, you can change the track in under an hour if you're good.

Also, tough to beat the Challenger 141" x 2" for all around.

 

[sled_guy]

I would not second guess Rob's experience, he has done it a LOT. My comments are about dry, fluffy powder, nothing else. In fact, the trimmed 2.4 is stupid fast compared to non-trimmed if you are running on the hill at the Fairview shootout.

Rob, you should post a picture of the screws in the lugs so people know what you are talking about. Hard for even me to visualize.

sled_guy

 

[Sundance Kid]

When you put screws in a track, does the tunnel get chewed up?
Are any tunnel guards needed? Kinda like the old days when we ran studs!!!

 

[F-Bomb]

Dan I'll snap a shot and put it up.

Sundance no you don't have to use any protector strips on your application and the types of screws that I now use and recommend. Those square head #6 1" screws litterly sink right in and sort of disappear into the lugs....all they do is stiffen the lugs end...they are not for actual traction. (remember we want bite but we also need throw so the lugs must remain flexible at the belt) For the sled you are building at 2.1" with inset screws you are ROCK AND ROLL. If you are running a hex traction head outside the tip then yes it will scrape at any length over 2.2 net (depending on your suspension setup and how tight your track is...they will walk off of the drivers slightly and can rub) If you want to go that route then you can install or rivet hifax up along the inner tunnel as a protector. (this is great for hill climb racing when you run on some ice or rocks but a waste of time and money on everyday free ride sleds)

 

[Sundance Kid]

Is this #6 screw something common that I just pick up at the hardware store???
Square head or drive??? Material or grade?
Some more details on how many and where would be greatly appreciated. A pic would be nice too!!!

Called Carl's today and they didn't have any new or used 144 x 2.4 on hand and said it wasn't available from Polaris anymore.

 

[Sundance Kid]

Anyone out there know where I might find a 144 x 2.4 ???