A High Quality 5203-2RS will run you more than 15.00 for sure....My guess is that BDX is selling you the PEER 5203-2RS for that price. My suggestion is for the SKF
John
What is killing the 6203 DD Bearings?
- Thread starter Coldfinger
- Start date
A High Quality 5203-2RS will run you more than 15.00 for sure....My guess is that BDX is selling you the PEER 5203-2RS for that price. My suggestion is for the SKF
John
I bought an '09 M8 Sno Pro last spring and put four days on it in the Snowies. It has 2000 miles on it right now. I pulled the DD apart this fall to check the bearing, and found what I believe is the stock bearing in perfect condition. No sign that the drive had ever been apart, and no evidence of loose parts having run around in the drive.
So there, at least one guy had higher miles and no failure or loose seals or anything. Wonder if there was a bad batch of bearings out there?? June assembly date on my DD IIRC.
Of course, I replaced the perfectly good Taiwan "NACHI 6203 NSE" with a new China (Cyber Ball Bearings) 3203 2RS. I bought two from bearingsdirect, and I still have the good orig, so I'll just keep an eye on things this winter. Topped off the DD with synthetic 80W90. Smelled a lot like what was in there, and about the same consistency.
Chris
So there, at least one guy had higher miles and no failure or loose seals or anything. Wonder if there was a bad batch of bearings out there?? June assembly date on my DD IIRC.
Of course, I replaced the perfectly good Taiwan "NACHI 6203 NSE" with a new China (Cyber Ball Bearings) 3203 2RS. I bought two from bearingsdirect, and I still have the good orig, so I'll just keep an eye on things this winter. Topped off the DD with synthetic 80W90. Smelled a lot like what was in there, and about the same consistency.
Chris
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Well, I just installed a SKF 6203-2rsh. Planning to replace at end of season.
Now I'm contemplating which oil to use.
I am considering using 5w40 synthetic, Rotella T6, rated for Motorcycles but even though MC have gears they may not have the loads that a sled has.??
Why don't I use DD oil or Amsoil? Because they are not readily available in my area.
My next choice would be Redline Lightweight Shock Proof Gear Lube. That stuff looks ideal. Need to check a few stores but may find out it is order only.
I may end up using Castrol 75/90 syn gear oil. After all, these are only gears. My main concern is how cold the DD case is during normal operation.
Now I'm contemplating which oil to use.
I am considering using 5w40 synthetic, Rotella T6, rated for Motorcycles but even though MC have gears they may not have the loads that a sled has.??
Why don't I use DD oil or Amsoil? Because they are not readily available in my area.
My next choice would be Redline Lightweight Shock Proof Gear Lube. That stuff looks ideal. Need to check a few stores but may find out it is order only.
I may end up using Castrol 75/90 syn gear oil. After all, these are only gears. My main concern is how cold the DD case is during normal operation.
D
drypowder
Well-known member
could you ask your dealer......
D
drypowder
Well-known member
could you ask your dealer......
I opened two of my friends DD. One 09, whit aprox 2000 km, and one 2010 whit sligtly more km. The 09 bearing was in bad shape, and most of the bearing cage was found in bits and piecec in the case.
The 2010, whole bearing cage on bought sides was gone. And we coul just find 2 tiny bits in the case. Rest of it was eaten up by the sprockets. An magnetic pin in the oil gave the answer wher the steel was. Never seen such a big round piece of oil before
Two sprockets in the planetary was missing tooths, and there was alot of scratches and marks around in the case, and on the rest of the sprockets. I noticed cat has changed the shim befind the bearing from 7mm in 09, to 6mm in 2010.
These 2 sleds has offcoures two different drivers. The 2010 model get alot more abuse of the driver then the 09 does. Jumps etc, and generally hard use.
Also our snowconditions over here are 80% hardpacked. That gives it even more abuse, then floating around in the powder all day.
My thoughts around it, is that the frame are flexing. Theres no way that the M frame is that strong that there won`t be flexing in it, and this bearing has to handle all the sideload in the DD. If the frame is flexing a mm or so during hard landing etc, it`s enough to take out this cute little bearing. Everyone been around the sport a while, know that regular chaincases have larger bearing on bought side of the drive shaft then the 6203 bearing.
So mu guess is, if you ride it hard, you will get trubble whit this bearing. Better change it before it snaps.
The 2010, whole bearing cage on bought sides was gone. And we coul just find 2 tiny bits in the case. Rest of it was eaten up by the sprockets. An magnetic pin in the oil gave the answer wher the steel was. Never seen such a big round piece of oil before
Two sprockets in the planetary was missing tooths, and there was alot of scratches and marks around in the case, and on the rest of the sprockets. I noticed cat has changed the shim befind the bearing from 7mm in 09, to 6mm in 2010.These 2 sleds has offcoures two different drivers. The 2010 model get alot more abuse of the driver then the 09 does. Jumps etc, and generally hard use.
Also our snowconditions over here are 80% hardpacked. That gives it even more abuse, then floating around in the powder all day.
My thoughts around it, is that the frame are flexing. Theres no way that the M frame is that strong that there won`t be flexing in it, and this bearing has to handle all the sideload in the DD. If the frame is flexing a mm or so during hard landing etc, it`s enough to take out this cute little bearing. Everyone been around the sport a while, know that regular chaincases have larger bearing on bought side of the drive shaft then the 6203 bearing.
So mu guess is, if you ride it hard, you will get trubble whit this bearing. Better change it before it snaps.
Drypowder,
Yes, you're right, I should ask the dealer. What do you suppose they will recommend?
Actually, I'm going with DD oil this time because it will be covered under warranty with the bearing change and the sled appears headed to the dealer anyhow so it can have the fuel pressure tested.
Yes, you're right, I should ask the dealer. What do you suppose they will recommend?
Actually, I'm going with DD oil this time because it will be covered under warranty with the bearing change and the sled appears headed to the dealer anyhow so it can have the fuel pressure tested.
L
longtrack156
Well-known member
Too much grease in a bearing will cause the the bearing to work harder pushing the grease around. In industry we always considered the amount of grease in the bearing was correct as supplied.
I use the Redline super light shock proof gear oil. It works if you don't mind the funky yellow color of the oil...
is this something i should check out on my new to me sled? 07 M1000 162. i bougt it used from a local shop here and also know the mechanic that has done every last bit of work on it, but..... this thread is kinda making me a little worried as to if the bearing has been changed. OBTW my sled has 1200 miles on it right now. What would you guys do??
Most of what I've been reading is that the 2009-2010 machines are having issues with the OEM 6203 bearing because there was a redesign of the DD for engine reverse.
Not sure about the older models but it wouldn't hurt to at least change the DD oil and flush it if you are not sure when that was last done.
Not sure about the older models but it wouldn't hurt to at least change the DD oil and flush it if you are not sure when that was last done.
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