What grade of octane people run in the 800R
- Thread starter summitdan
- Start date
K
kodpkd
Well-known member
Oh,,, you were making a funny... True,,, higher octane than needed is less power.
R
rjm350
New member
Burning Ethanol in sleds
I'm not sure if anyone is still on this thread, but I am generally hearing that an ethanol blended fuel is not good to run in sleds in particular mod sleds with high compression or turboed. I don't know a lot about ethanol, but I'm not sure why it isn't a good option? Possibly mix it with RB or VP race fuel.
I know the general problems you run into with rubbers drying up and also the cold weather starting problems. But I guess if you are running a mod sled I am sure you can change the o-rings and gaskets if you want to run ethanol. As for the cold starting problem as long as you aren't mixing more than 40% to 50% ethanol the machine will start fine.
I haven't looked into the distillation curve for ethanol and this may be the reason.
I have also heard about the Engineering competition called "the Clean Snowmobile change" lots of these sleds run on on ethanol to reduce emissions as well as increase performance.
Anyway any discussion on this topic i think would be interesting.
I'm not sure if anyone is still on this thread, but I am generally hearing that an ethanol blended fuel is not good to run in sleds in particular mod sleds with high compression or turboed. I don't know a lot about ethanol, but I'm not sure why it isn't a good option? Possibly mix it with RB or VP race fuel.
I know the general problems you run into with rubbers drying up and also the cold weather starting problems. But I guess if you are running a mod sled I am sure you can change the o-rings and gaskets if you want to run ethanol. As for the cold starting problem as long as you aren't mixing more than 40% to 50% ethanol the machine will start fine.
I haven't looked into the distillation curve for ethanol and this may be the reason.
I have also heard about the Engineering competition called "the Clean Snowmobile change" lots of these sleds run on on ethanol to reduce emissions as well as increase performance.
Anyway any discussion on this topic i think would be interesting.
the cheap ****. oil also cheap blue arctic. had 3900 miles on my 04 when i had a ring spin and catch exhaust port. the only problem i've ever had with the sled. my exhaust valves had also never been cleaned when i was redoing top end i pulled exhaust gillitenes out and they basically clean as new. on my 09 i will probablly buy premium fuel.
yea if ou keep your oil injection turned up i swear your motor will double its life i run 87 or 91 in my HO but $1.40 a litre for premium ill probaly run 87 more now...
I believe that also. it used alot of oil thats why i ran arctic blue like2.5 - 3 qrts. to 10 gall
FUEL 101
OCTANE required...
800R = 12.2-1 = pump gas 91 for sea level....
800R at 8000' = 87-89 for best performance
800HO Summit = 13.2-1 (13.5-1 in PT) = 91-92 pump at sea level (timing retard function in box)
800HO Summit at 8000' = 91-92 due to altitude specific compression and full timing
Octane boosters- MOST raise them .5 or .7 NOT a full octane point like 91 to92...they doo keep moisture out though, thats real expensive HEET...BUT anything at the PEP boys for $2.99 is crap...KLOTZ KL-602 is the real deal IMHO-and is the only one I have used to "carry octane with me"...
100LL or race gas in a mountain sled...you better have MORE compression than stock, NOS, TURBO etc... to justify the $$ and effort...
FYI- you LOSE HP with "extra" octane when not required...
****IF you raise your stock compression to "altitude specific" compression than refer back to manufacture recomendations and or 91-92 octane****
JETTING- classic ski-doo...lean in the mids rich on top...easy 2-3 hp fix...add a .010" shim to needle, open fuel screw to 2 turns, drop mains 2...all OK with pump gas.
Another 1-2 hp is from a projected tip sparkplug...NGK BPR9ES or Champion RN57YC gapped properly will show a little on the dyno and in the field.
OIL 101
1 qt per usable tank of fuel = 32-1 = standard requirment for any/all 2 stroke motors....more oil is $$ wasted...less oil is $$ spent on parts.
IMHO- extra $$ oils isnt worth it either...POO blue, DOO mineral, cat green and oils like Arctic blue (all rated to current specs) will deliver all the lubrication your motor ever needed...and you save $10-15 a gallon...
BTW-dont get me started on Amsoil...LOL.
disclaimer- more for the flatlanders...since fuel prices are so high...the 92 octane fuel sits...so the 87 octane is the freshest (99% of all cars use)...for ANY mod motor thats considered 92 pump I would recomend adding the KL-602 or 1 gallon of 110 to each tank.... its NOT because its a race motor...YOU might not be buying 92!!!!
Hope this helps...and makes sense-BJ
OCTANE required...
800R = 12.2-1 = pump gas 91 for sea level....
800R at 8000' = 87-89 for best performance
800HO Summit = 13.2-1 (13.5-1 in PT) = 91-92 pump at sea level (timing retard function in box)
800HO Summit at 8000' = 91-92 due to altitude specific compression and full timing
Octane boosters- MOST raise them .5 or .7 NOT a full octane point like 91 to92...they doo keep moisture out though, thats real expensive HEET...BUT anything at the PEP boys for $2.99 is crap...KLOTZ KL-602 is the real deal IMHO-and is the only one I have used to "carry octane with me"...
100LL or race gas in a mountain sled...you better have MORE compression than stock, NOS, TURBO etc... to justify the $$ and effort...
FYI- you LOSE HP with "extra" octane when not required...
****IF you raise your stock compression to "altitude specific" compression than refer back to manufacture recomendations and or 91-92 octane****
JETTING- classic ski-doo...lean in the mids rich on top...easy 2-3 hp fix...add a .010" shim to needle, open fuel screw to 2 turns, drop mains 2...all OK with pump gas.
Another 1-2 hp is from a projected tip sparkplug...NGK BPR9ES or Champion RN57YC gapped properly will show a little on the dyno and in the field.
OIL 101
1 qt per usable tank of fuel = 32-1 = standard requirment for any/all 2 stroke motors....more oil is $$ wasted...less oil is $$ spent on parts.
IMHO- extra $$ oils isnt worth it either...POO blue, DOO mineral, cat green and oils like Arctic blue (all rated to current specs) will deliver all the lubrication your motor ever needed...and you save $10-15 a gallon...
BTW-dont get me started on Amsoil...LOL.
disclaimer- more for the flatlanders...since fuel prices are so high...the 92 octane fuel sits...so the 87 octane is the freshest (99% of all cars use)...for ANY mod motor thats considered 92 pump I would recomend adding the KL-602 or 1 gallon of 110 to each tank.... its NOT because its a race motor...YOU might not be buying 92!!!!
Hope this helps...and makes sense-BJ
What he ^^^ said. Extra oil - not needed. Extra octane - not needed, unless you need it
. I typically leave the jetting alone until I have everything else optimized, then start playing with it. No point in making extra HP if you can't use what you already have. Make sure that your sled is in good shape and the track has as littke rolling resistance as possible, it will make a big difference in the mileage and "power".
Anyone have any experience with fitch fuel catalists? will they restore octane to old fuel or make 87 octane fuel run like it is higher? just wondering cause I question the 91 octane fuel in Chetwynd and other small mountain towns.
Why I think it is hard on 2 strokes is the very fundimentals of ethanol or any alcohol based fuel. Ethanol/alcohol are corrosive and are very VERY good detergents, and in the case of a 2 stroke, I believe that you would have issues with oil washing away from vitals, however, with the advances in oil/any oil these days, I am not sure you would need to worry about that any more! I think when people mess up is not jetting up for ethanol. Ethanol burns at around 9.75:1 A/F, when gasoline, for max power, burns at around 12.5:1, the higher A/F mixture required leans the motor out, and, well, most of us know the rest of the story.
I run them in my 4-wheelers because of lack of use . It has taken away the old gas smell that they had when starting them up in the garage. No carb problems while using them either going on year 5. I also put one in my gas storage can,and boats gas can. I don't beleave the claimed Hp gain,but I do think they keep the gas fresh longer.
Fitch fuel catalist doesnt GIVE octane it just KEEPS octane (there claim)...I have heard from a few credible sources that it works...no personal experience..
As for ethanol...if your jetted "spot on" with 92 gasoline...and switch to 92 w/10% ethanol than jet up 1 size...the factory jetting already has that fuel in mind...BJ
Is it true that storing gas in plastic cans will lose octane quicker than metal cans?
If it's over the course of a month or 2 does it matter?
I wonder if those fitch's work with race gas too?
If it's over the course of a month or 2 does it matter?
I wonder if those fitch's work with race gas too?
Here is an octane calculator for those of you that know the required octane fuel you need and want to blend some race gas with regular or other octanes. Pretty straight forward, but its a no-brainer with this.
http://www.motorsportsracingfuels.com/OctaneCalculator.html
http://www.motorsportsracingfuels.com/OctaneCalculator.html
Race gas should be stored in a meal can becase ultraviolet light attacks the lead in race gas though plastic,so it then looses octane.Fitch's will not stop that procces but will overall keep it good longer.The easyer it is to see your fluid level in plastic,the worse it is.
Pump gas does not contain lead so it is a different story.
S
shortstop20
Well-known member
In SnowTech they said that's not the way to do it though. There is a scientific rule of some sort about it. You can't just add 4 gallons of 91 to 4 gallons of 87 to make 89.
C
chuckbernard
Member
That is exactly what they do at the gas station. Go have a look and you will find that only 2 grades of gas are delivered to the gas station. They only have 2 underground tanks. They blend them together to get the mid-octane fuel at the pump.
Well, I don't actually know whether they use 50/50 mixture so you may still be right.