Weird issues with pro

[Clarke673]

Ok so i am experienceing some issues pulling peak RPM's. I WAS pulling a PEAK of 7500 but with the snow conditions and people i was riding with it didn't bother me to much. Now i am only pulling 6900 at WOT after a few seconds. Weird thing is that on the trail It will run up to 8200 HARD. Also, in deep snow at WOT sometimes the sled seems burbly and will have a slight cut out. It is odd. Up until my sled was down for about 2 months it ripped all around. 7900-8200 RPM. The bog is the biggest issue to me, nothing like rolling up to a cornice and not knowing what your sled is going to do. kinda sucks.

Thinking it is
A-Secondary spring to soft?
B-Power Valve issue?
C- Fuel filter?
D-electrical grimlin
E- i do have a leaky exhaust doughnut where my stock pipe meets up with my HPS can.

Combination of all the above? Im going to start tearing into it in hopes of finding something stupid, and i am going to go back to stock clutching for now, just wondering if you guys have any opinions?

Things i know it's not
-Exhaust temp sensor is brand new and tests good, no air leaks, purfect compression, not overheating, no drag in drivetrain as i spent about 2 hours relocating my skid and adjusting the suspensoin and track tention, and looking over my chainecase. I also know that the sled is not getting to much oil as i have my oil pump adjusted purfect and sled has all updates done.

Where would you guy's start?

 

[tdorval]

A lot of people have been mentioning primary springs breaking. Its a quick check...

 

[skibreeze]

Pri spring
EV bellows or plastic fitting coming off the solenoid
TPS- I replaced one that read good on the scale with no dead spots, but was way off on it's resistance value compared to another one.
TPS- wiring from the TPS to the ECU melted

 

[Pro-8250]

$.02

Ok so i am experienceing some issues pulling peak RPM's. I WAS pulling a PEAK of 7500 but with the snow conditions and people i was riding with it didn't bother me to much. Now i am only pulling 6900 at WOT after a few seconds. Weird thing is that on the trail It will run up to 8200 HARD. Also, in deep snow at WOT sometimes the sled seems burbly and will have a slight cut out. It is odd. Up until my sled was down for about 2 months it ripped all around. 7900-8200 RPM. The bog is the biggest issue to me, nothing like rolling up to a cornice and not knowing what your sled is going to do. kinda sucks.

Thinking it is
A-Secondary spring to soft?
B-Power Valve issue?
C- Fuel filter?
D-electrical grimlin
E- i do have a leaky exhaust doughnut where my stock pipe meets up with my HPS can.

Combination of all the above? Im going to start tearing into it in hopes of finding something stupid, and i am going to go back to stock clutching for now, just wondering if you guys have any opinions?

Things i know it's not
-Exhaust temp sensor is brand new and tests good, no air leaks, purfect compression, not overheating, no drag in drivetrain as i spent about 2 hours relocating my skid and adjusting the suspensoin and track tention, and looking over my chainecase. I also know that the sled is not getting to much oil as i have my oil pump adjusted purfect and sled has all updates done.

Where would you guy's start?

I'm not a mechanic, but a friend of mine had similar but not exactly the same problems your having. The sled came with the wrong injectors from the factory.
I can't tell you if that's your problem I don't know. Just passing on my $.02

 

[gman086]

If the primary spring and exhaust valves are in good shape, definitely go with a stiffer secondary spring. Carl's is even putting stiffer secondary springs in now with their clutch kits to avoid what you describe; keeps gearing in the lower ratios longer for better rpm recovery and hold, not to mention better backshift.

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[aebsledder]

TPS? I have heard there were some issues with moisture in the TPS. I had an injector replaced on mine at about 130 miles, but the symptoms were different from what you are experiencing.

 

[Clarke673]

Pri spring
EV bellows or plastic fitting coming off the solenoid
TPS- I replaced one that read good on the scale with no dead spots, but was way off on it's resistance value compared to another one.
TPS- wiring from the TPS to the ECU melted

i will check it out. How often does the TPS melt?

I'm not a mechanic, but a friend of mine had similar but not exactly the same problems your having. The sled came with the wrong injectors from the factory.
I can't tell you if that's your problem I don't know. Just passing on my $.02

I thought about this while riding it today but it ran good the first season

If the primary spring and exhaust valves are in good shape, definitely go with a stiffer secondary spring. Carl's is even putting stiffer secondary springs in now with their clutch kits to avoid what you describe; keeps gearing in the lower ratios longer for better rpm recovery and hold, not to mention better backshift.

Have FUN!

G MAN

What spring would you run? I can't run mutch clutch weight as i have an assault track wiht about 5 pounds of screws in it. It's nice once you get it spinning, almsot acts like a flywheel....lol if you can get it there. I pulled the stock spring out of my primary (think it was black?) and i grabbed a black and purple spring and tried it out. im thinking this is most my issue along with dirty valves and....? idk something else? lol i'll let you guys know what i find in about an hour or two when i get it in my shop.

Any other ideas and or opinions are welcome!

 

[skibreeze]

I haven't seen any melted wires, but I was asked by OTS to check it on mine. I pretty much knew I had a TPS issue after looking at everything else. Remember that the TPS is the sensor that controls the entire sequence.

 

[Clarke673]

i realy hate checking electrical parts

 

[gman086]

What spring would you run? I can't run mutch clutch weight as i have an assault track wiht about 5 pounds of screws in it. It's nice once you get it spinning, almsot acts like a flywheel....lol if you can get it there.

I believe they said black/lime green which is the stiffest (180/300). Would certainly help with how you have your track set up (and use shallower finish rate on helix).

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[GREICO1]

Why was your sled down for 2 months? What changed since then?

 

[Clarke673]

everything electricle is good, cleaned power valves, new plugs, found a ground that could have been bad on the volt reg.

Now i am trying to figure out my clutching. thanks for the heads up on the spring.

 

[die hard poo]

I would highly suspect your primary spring to be sacked out. I had similar issues as you have, on the trail and on some load conditions the sled would run fine, but under heavy load situations, it seemed to not pull full rpms. I would suggest replacing your primary spring with 140/330 black spring or the SLP Blue/Pink spring.

 

[Pro-8250]

everything electricle is good, cleaned power valves, new plugs, found a ground that could have been bad on the volt reg.

Now i am trying to figure out my clutching. thanks for the heads up on the spring.

I wouldn't think your voltage regulator would have anything to do with it.

 

[Clarke673]

I would highly suspect your primary spring to be sacked out. I had similar issues as you have, on the trail and on some load conditions the sled would run fine, but under heavy load situations, it seemed to not pull full rpms. I would suggest replacing your primary spring with 140/330 black spring or the SLP Blue/Pink spring.

why would you suggest those springs? just wondering.

 

[die hard poo]

The black (140/330 spring rate) is the stock spring. That is why lol But the SLP Blue/Pink spring is similar rate at 140/340 and is supposedly a better quality spring that is closer to spec and has a lesser chance of sacking out on you. Plus is a cool skittle color. That seems to the "in" thing now lol I have ran both and my SLP spring lasted a whole season until my primary snapped in half and took out the spring last year, and this year on my 12, I had the stock spring sack out in 75 miles. I replaced it with a spare black spring I had laying around and my rpm were right back to normal.

 

[poorider]

Clarke I had the same issue not too long ago, sled started losing rpm on a climb, was getting worse and worse til it got down to around the 7500 rpm range. At my dealer's recomendation I put in the slp green/pink primary spring, which instantly brought my rpms back up to around 8300 (too high) so I threw 2 gram heavier weights in (seems to be 8000- 8200 now) Apparently there have been a lot of the stock black polaris springs sacking out, and I'm carrying a new spare slp spring on trips now just in case

 

[flying frenchman]

2011 PRO RMK. Same issues as you, lots power up trail and no more than 7800 RPMs climbing. Even went from 62g to 60g weights with no luck. Tried my buddies 2012 Assault and WOW!! his sled just pulled hard just like mine did on the trail. So I'm thing my sled has 1200 miles and the springs are saged out.
I'm thinking SLP blue-pink in primary. The secondary has a black spring in the Polaris fiche for 2012 at my dealer and on a few site online they have the 2012 secondary spring as a black-purple. This spring has 20 lbs more pressure than the stock one. Should I go to this black-purple or stay with the factory black spring. I need my sled to rev as it climbs like turd when it revs this low.

 

[Clarke673]

turns out at somepoint my sled got the wrong plugs in it. Swapped to ngk and it ripped. had an epic day of riding. still not pulling the rpm's in the deep snow i would like to, but on the trails or set up hills the sled is a beast.

I will probubly talk to fastrax and see what they would reccomend. Thanks for all the help and advice. I feel kinda retarded right now.

 

[tinkerjohnson]

pro not pulling rpm

My pro is having similar issues, not pulling rpm. I tried changing weights, springs, valves, all the typical things and with no change. I started calling around and people were telling me that the pistons were probably going bad. So i changed them and now sled is running great.