Twisted m8 help please

[Snowjunky]

I had a similar problem with a different brand kit. I pulled my fuel pump and powered it off a small 12 volt battery reverse polarity and it spit out some nasty stuff. Ran strong all day. Was just putting around it did exactly what your did. I did the reverses thing in the field ran great all day. Just something else for ya to check.

 

[m8lovin]

Wheres the main ground located? Thanks

 

[RACINSTATION]

Just above the brake rotor on the inside of the bulkhead....in front and to the right of the fuel tank.

There is also a ground on the stator which lives on the front of the recoil housing side of the engine.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Don't know for sure why it went lean but I've seen it happen if your rpm drops down in the low 7000 range. I would check all the boost lines that run to the fuel pressure reg. and attitude box for leaks. If one of them poped off or is leaking it could lean it out real quick. Seen a lot of pipe sensors go out after a hard lean pull too. May want to go over the install checking everything.

What about what hatchers said about the gas tank venting, he prob knows more than most of us so pay attention to what he says.

 

[m8lovin]

Sorry, to clerify it hasnt gone lean and died under boost only when idling. The sled runs great when boosting. Also i have the tank vents in place and they are clear. Im taking it out too a cabin this weekend i will see what it does this time. Thanks for the help guys..

 

[Jeff K]

Ok so i dilectric greased all plugs and went for a ride today. Same thing happening and now its reading codes on startup the wrench flashes 4 times then 2 times then 3 times then 7 times then 2 times real quick and then the headlights come on. It does this everytime i start it up now. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks

Codes from the service manual:

CCU 42 - Tachometer input failure (engine running - no tachometer signal present). Tachometer signal wire shorted to ground.

CCU 37 - System over voltage. Spike in battery voltage - excessive gear case shifting.

When all error codes have been output, the service icon flashes twice quickly.

 

[m8lovin]

Thanks jeff k. The guage still shows rpm and i have a 2010 grear case in it so i dont have reverse. Could it cause a problem if i bumped the reverse button? Thanks again!

 

[Jeff K]

Yes, if you eliminate the mechanical reverse and you hit the reverse button you will get codes. You need to disconnect or cut the wire from the reverse button. I will see if I can remember which one.

Not sure how you clear ccu codes once they are in.

 

[Jeff K]

The wire you need to cut is the White/Violet wire. There is a picture of the wire to cut in the following thread. This will ensure that the reverse button no longer works, and you will no longer get any codes if you happen to hit the button.

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=230476

 

[matt159]

Tuned it in and sled ran flawless for 2 hour playing around and Pulled a small hill three times then stopped for lunch. Went to go again and started sled, when i hit the gas it died. I pulled it over again and it started then died when i hit the gas. Did this a few times. And same problem. Changed plugs. And same thing. I waited and watched my buddy play around for around an hour. Then pulled my belt off and we hooked the tow rope up and just before we left i tried it again and it ran again Like normal. Put belt on got greedy and pulled the hill three more times then came down to th ebottom of the hill and it died again. Needless to say i got towed off the mountain today. Sorry for my long post. But does anyone have any ideas on what too look for? Thank you!

I have been dealing with EXACTLY the same problem since last year on my 08 m8 turbo. I have BD Race Gas kit running 10.5lbs. Starts great when cold, but once it's been ridden for an hour & you shut it off (or idle in one spot for a minute or two) the problems begin. As soon as you try to give it any throttle while at idle, the rpms drop & it dies. I have assumed it is heat soak & temp sensor issue, but I am starting to suspect stator after reading other posts. If I unplug the temp sensor AFTER it is running, I can feather it off of idle and get it moving. After cruising in some powder for a couple minutes, I can plug the temp sensor back in & it's good until I stop again. It normally starts & idles fine, but as the day goes on, it occasionally needs to sit for 15 minutes to cool before it will start & idle and I still need to unplug the temp sensor & feather the throttle to get it up to RPM. (Especially when the powder was covering up my hood vents 2 weeks ago.) Once it is above idle, it runs great. No sputtering at full throttle or any other typical stator symptoms that I have read about.

Any thoughts? Where does the auxilary MSD fuel pump pull power from? Could I be overworking a coil on the stator?
Turbo Kit works great & I am very pleased with it, but I am growing concerned that I can't be towed out of some nasty places we ride into if this symptom gets worse.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

That sounds like a lean problem, my m1000 would do the same thing, I just installed a new gauge and where it was tuned to run at 45psi I found out it was at 40psi, and I would have to dump a bunch of fuel at idle to get it to run, I think I must have sprung the reg spring a bit and I now have the psi back up, just need to test it.
By unplugging the switch you are making it think its cold and it runs rich (like a choke for warm up).
try increasing fuel on the low setting in the box and see what happens.

 

[matt159]

m8 RG turbo issues "mostly" solved

I found my "sometimes won't start" problem. The tail lite connector had cracked & come unplugged. As the day went on, more snow would melt & get into the connector as it flopped around against the tunnel under the tail lite and occasionally short out due to the water. Ran great after I fixed that, but still needs the temp switch flipped occasionally to come off of idle after starting. About 1 out of 4 times I started it yesterday, I had to switch off the temp sensor & feather the throttle to get it to go from 1600 rpm up to 2000rpm. Then I could switch it back on & be good to go without any issues even if it sat & idled for a while. It was quite predictable, but puzzling. Didn't seem to make any difference on engine temp either. It happened both hot & cold. Maybe a weak stator? Not quite enough power at 1600rpm for a fan & extra fuel pump? I am going to replace the throttle safety switch just because I can't hear it "clicking" like my buddies m1000, but I'm not convinced that is the problem.
Any thoughts?

 

[WyoBoy1000]

when it is running low and doesn't seem to idle up, shut it off and restart it, I bet it will pick up rpm.

 

[matt159]

when it is running low and doesn't seem to idle up, shut it off and restart it, I bet it will pick up rpm.

I 'll try it, but why does that work when the sled is already warmed up? I have had to do that with many M sleds 1st thing in the morning to get them going but rpm is typically a lot lower than 1600. What rpm are the m8's supposed to idle at?

 

[WyoBoy1000]

I don't know,

 

[mmsports]

idle

When the idle is low is usually because its fat when high idle its lean.

 

[hatchers]

What rpm are the m8's supposed to idle at?

1750ish once its hot...yes it might hardly rev when cold then rev high when warming and then back down to 1750ish when warm/hot