I know we are normally asking about the best setups for deep snow (especially this time of year), but with supply issues being what they are I want to get a little more of a jump on this. I have a boosted 165 Alpha coming to cover the deep snow duties, so now I am throwing around ideas of how best to utilize what will be the new spare. This is the 2014-2018 Proclimb in my signature. It's been updated to the current Ascender chassis so please bear with me. I think I'd like to tailor it a bit more toward spring riding and try to have the best of both worlds between the two machines.
Drivetrain wise it's running 900BB, 2018 primary, Tied secondary, TKI belt drive, and dropped driveshaft. Chassis wise it currently has a 162 3" powerclaw, Kmod skid with Raptors, Ice Age Elevate spindles, 2016+ geometry 38" front end, Fox Evol X front shocks, and powder pro or AC G2 proclimb skis depending on conditions. While this setup works well in the steep and deep, it could hook up better in the more setup snow and be a little more maneuverable. The goal for it would be something I can rail around, jump, do some tail standers, ride trees, hillcross, and still be able to handle the occasional 2' snow day.
Right off the bat I am thinking of clipping the back of the tunnel down to standard 153" Cat length, new rails for the skid, and a 153 track of some variety. Kmod did at one point offer a 141 skid option... that sounds really fun paired with a 141 2.6 powerclaw, but might clip the wings on the deep snow ability a bit too much. Especially for a big guy like me. So I'm mostly considering a 153 2.6 powerclaw or a Camso 280 conquer in the same length. Any other tracks you guys have run that you think would work well in the spring snow? A 2.6 powerclaw with a few screws seems like the best route for the hillcross course, but that's only one day of the season. Not sure I'd want to run that all the time?
Might be good to re-gear back to a 26/66 2.54 ratio from the 25/66 2.64 I'm running now. I used to pull that back when I had the 162 2.6 track on it. Maybe a little more aggressive helix if it will pull that too.
I'm already running my limiter strap out as far as I dare with the Elevate spindles, so nothing to really gain there. If the spindles stay the rear shock needs a re-valve to avoid bottoming. For what I'm doing it might be better to put the stock spindles back on???
Any other thoughts or things I'm not thinking of?
Drivetrain wise it's running 900BB, 2018 primary, Tied secondary, TKI belt drive, and dropped driveshaft. Chassis wise it currently has a 162 3" powerclaw, Kmod skid with Raptors, Ice Age Elevate spindles, 2016+ geometry 38" front end, Fox Evol X front shocks, and powder pro or AC G2 proclimb skis depending on conditions. While this setup works well in the steep and deep, it could hook up better in the more setup snow and be a little more maneuverable. The goal for it would be something I can rail around, jump, do some tail standers, ride trees, hillcross, and still be able to handle the occasional 2' snow day.
Right off the bat I am thinking of clipping the back of the tunnel down to standard 153" Cat length, new rails for the skid, and a 153 track of some variety. Kmod did at one point offer a 141 skid option... that sounds really fun paired with a 141 2.6 powerclaw, but might clip the wings on the deep snow ability a bit too much. Especially for a big guy like me. So I'm mostly considering a 153 2.6 powerclaw or a Camso 280 conquer in the same length. Any other tracks you guys have run that you think would work well in the spring snow? A 2.6 powerclaw with a few screws seems like the best route for the hillcross course, but that's only one day of the season. Not sure I'd want to run that all the time?
Might be good to re-gear back to a 26/66 2.54 ratio from the 25/66 2.64 I'm running now. I used to pull that back when I had the 162 2.6 track on it. Maybe a little more aggressive helix if it will pull that too.
I'm already running my limiter strap out as far as I dare with the Elevate spindles, so nothing to really gain there. If the spindles stay the rear shock needs a re-valve to avoid bottoming. For what I'm doing it might be better to put the stock spindles back on???
Any other thoughts or things I'm not thinking of?