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Turbo bog, high RPM

i had my fuel pressure all the way down to 30 and didnt help out the low end but i had to turn it up to about 42 just trying to keep it from squeaking in the midrange when it would go supr lean when on cruise mode fuel setting
 
Right now I am too cold in the mid range even with the cruise setting all the way down, so maybe lowering the fuel pressure will help out some. Right now it feels as though the attitude box has very little authority, so maybe lowering the pressure will give the box some more control. However as I understand it the FPR really only comes into play when the motor starts asking for more fuel, so at lower rpms when you let off and hit it again it isn't really a factor, and this would make good sense as to why it didn't do anything for you at the low end but was noticeable in the mid.

As I mentioned I am not getting any mid range "leaness" on any settings so maybe the FPR will help my sittuation.

Thanks

FLM Staff
www.holomis.com
info@holomis.com
 
Lower the green blue light, this will decrease your boost curve and not add so much fuel as you come up on boost.

Than add to your red light to make it up on the top end.

Justin
 
Update:

Went riding today in some real techinical tree poking area's and the bog is still there.

I lowered my fuel pressure, also lowered my green blue setting but can;t get rid of the bog. I may have to remove the intercooler to see if this will eliminate the bog. It was especially noticable with the riding conditions today, as I had to be on and off the throttle constantly as we climbed our way through tight tree's and creek draws etc...

Thanks

FLM Staff
www.holomis.com
info@full-lotus.com
 
Have you tried to raise the yellow blue setting up from three. Also have you tried to go richer on your settings. sometimes they act rich and they are really lean.
 
Hello

Thanks for the input. Yes I have tried up down all over on the fuel settings. It is a rich problem because I can see it in my EGT temps.


What I would like to know is, is there anyone with this same setup

700 dragon with the intercooled Silber kit, using it in tree's at around 6000-8000 ASL. If so is the sled loading up on you when you are on and off the throttle. If not what are your settings, Fuel pressure, box settings etc... I am interested to know if anyone has this bog figured out.

The problem we are having is at all different rpm levels and it is when you get on the throttle and off the throttle, then back on, it bogs then it clears up and you dig one hell of a trench for the poor suckers behind you. It is frustrating because you can't just cruise along at low speed.

So let us know if anyone has this setup and is not having this problem.

Thanks

FLM Staff
www.holomis.com
info@holomis.com
 
mine is fine except for the out of the hole bog. i have the same setup but mine is fine once i get it rolling. i sent my box to justin to get reflashed becuase of that and it getting so lean in cruise mode that it would cut out at certain rpm
 
it would be nice if there was a way of telling which flash is in your box and what i had in mine and stuff like injector color and see if that affected this at all. mine did get slightly better when i plugged the EV solenoid back in and after new flash if it still has problems i am going to try stiffer EV springs
 
Ya that would be nice. I can live with the initial bog but this other issue is not good. It works so well when it is under continuous throttle but as soon as you back off and back on again it stumbles, just long enough for you to almost get stuck then it clears and pulls like crazy, and then repeat, it makes for a very tiring ride, you have to always think 10 steps ahead so you don't get yourself in a pickle. There has to be some answer.

Is it turbo lag?

FLM Staff
www.holomis.com
info@holomis.com
 
i really want to get rid of that initial bog. i was half tempted to grind my weights down to try and raise engagement just to get past that really low end stumble. is it only happening below a certain rpm like for me its below 5700 i think. past that im fine
 
I have found the best luck with very low single red settings (1-2) with the blue/red (transition) set very high (6.5-7.5). Slight changes on the box can make or break the run-ability at times.

What is the status of your exhaust valves....plugged, stock soleniod, open?
 
Last edited:
Is your clutching hitting the target rpms? It almost sounds like a backshift issue.

Is this "bog" a soft spot that takes a moment to clear out and make power or is it a bog that actually cuts out with misfiring?
 
see i wasnt able to try that i needed my red and my blue green maxed out to get down to 13 at wot. thats why it would be nice to know who had what flashed in their boxes and maybe even be able to compare ecm/injector color becuase we have the same setup with similar issues but not totally the same. mine is fine as soon as i get off the bottom end but his sounds like its not
 
tree_climber said:
see i wasnt able to try that i needed my red and my blue green maxed out to get down to 13 at wot. thats why it would be nice to know who had what flashed in their boxes and maybe even be able to compare ecm/injector color becuase we have the same setup with similar issues but not totally the same. mine is fine as soon as i get off the bottom end but his sounds like its not
Click to expand...

Wow...you aren't going to drop red or blue/green with 13/1 afr!
 
Mine is quite different but here are a few sugestions. Mine is a 700 with a mitsubishi turbo with a 3.0 attitude controller. My fuel pressure is at 40. from what I have heard this is used mostly just off idle. Then I know you said your egts are low but I actually burned down the motor and my egts were really low. I finally started to turn up the green to 3-4 and the yellow just below that at 3. Now when you get about 2-3 lbs of boost do you see you blue light come on.It should come on. I got a box once that had the tube for boost but the circuit wasn't programmed in for boost so the blue light wouldn't come on. The yellow green circuit controls my transition of rpm in the midrange. Lower number adds the yellow sooner higher adds the yellow at a higher rpm. I run mine up around 5. Also fouled plugs will run but not very good under load. If it cuts out as you get on it it may be transitioning through a really lean spot. Then when you get to full throttle it runs more on the boost circuit.I also run mine at 12lbs of boost Straight race 110 Sunoco. I think how it can show rich when it is lean is because you are so far past that the motor just can't run. I actually detonated the motor so bad it tore the top of the piston off and broke the ends of the rings off.
 
Hi Eli

It actually cuts out and stumbles then comes back and makes power.

Eli said:
Is your clutching hitting the target rpms? It almost sounds like a backshift issue.

Is this "bog" a soft spot that takes a moment to clear out and make power or is it a bog that actually cuts out with misfiring?
Click to expand...
 
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