Turbo 101?

[yammi4ever]

Ok, ordered the Turbo for the new nytro which will hopefully be arriving soon. I was just wondering if anyone who has run Turbos for a while can put together a quick list of things to make sure to check when riding with a turbo.

I am a Turbo virgin (unless you count my powerstroke lol) so I guess I am just looking for a cheat sheet to help me keep things together. How long can i pin it safely, a/f numbers to live by, any other things to look for.......

This will be a Powderlites kit and I am sure that Dave will give me any tips that I ask when the kit comes, but wanted to get some ideas from you guys.

Thanks,

kirk

 

[TurboT]

By no means am I a pro with turbos, but here's the limited knowledge I have! I check my oil every time before I ride, keep an eye on your coolant, 13:1 on your a/f ratio, run a shockwave helix for clutching, I run supertip weights, heavier spring on the clutching. I wouldn't buy an Innovate a/f ratio gauge. Powderlites should be able to help you with this one. I have heard the ngk a/f gauge is supposedly the one to buy. Have had many problems with my Innovate. Make sure your crankcase breather is routed well, definately watch your throttle cable routing and other lines are run right after moving everything around. Had problems with my throttle cable in Togwotee of all places and lost two good days of no boost I always let the turbo cool(idle), for @ least 10-15 seconds before turning her off. I haven't run full throttle for more than 2 minutes straight so I'm no help for you there. Not really any reason, in my belief, to run more than 10,700 rpm range(Apex). Otherwise, have fun. You're going to love it! Hopefully guys like Ironman, 007, Darko, Swenson, Zembiraross, Ultralord, Ryder, Use2BeDoo,or any others I have forgotten can help you out more. When these guys talk, I listen!

 

[Lunch_Box]

13:1 seems pretty lean to me. If you are using race gas (C16 or similar) I wouldn't go over 12.5:1 air fuel; and if you are sticking to pump gas (91 octane) I wouldn't go over 11.5:1 air fuel.

 

[snow_knight]

remeber one huge thing................


















Once you go boost there is no going back

 

[DWHalverson]

So, what the hell are you going to ride this year? I thought you sold your sled.

remeber one huge thing................


















Once you go boost there is no going back

 

[Nate]

ya know thats what I keep thinkin' Halverson Rocky why did you sell your damn Apex? And why have you not picked up that turbo poo yet?

Boost is fun, boost is great, I calculate that in for every sled now

 

[HYFLYR]

Learn your sled and kit inside and out. Knowing your system and how it works is vital, if you dont know what goes where or why, then your up a creek without a paddle if something happens in the field.

I always shoot for a 12.5 a/f ratio but like i said before learn your sled because all motors and kits are different and run differently. There are mixed pinions on the forum as to what a/f to run but i have always found 12 to 12.5 to be a safe and also powerfull ratio.

Get your clutching together or close as possible, dave will be able to help you out as far as what boost level and altittude you will be riding at. Keep your clutches cool and clean and you shouldnt have any belt issues.

Have fun and start low in the boost numbers, cause your gonna turn it up and you wont be able to go back down, lol. Have fun with it and happy boosting.

 

[Motleyone]

turbo

I agree on the A/F Ratio, it should be down around 12.2-12.6 on a Nytro. Remember that this is the number you are shooting for at wide open. The dang A/F number jumps all over at cruising speed and when you let off the throttle. I run the Porlogger which is awesome for checking A/F numbers. It logs my run in 1/10th of a second intervals so I can see exactly where the Ratio was at high boost. It is almost impossible to watch it when you are full throttle. I run the Shockwave and Supertips and they are super simple. I just used the stock spring and wound it up tight.

I assume you are getting the RB3 from Powderlites so you should not have to do any thing with fuel adjustment, the RB3 replaces the Purelogic box that has so many variables. From my understanding the RB3 is just plug and play and it comes with 2 fuel maps, one for Pump and one for Race gas(higher boost).

Maybe this goes without saying but you really need to upgrade your rear supension, espcially on the T-Nytro.

Air leaks are almost always the first culprit in boost issues. Be sure you connect them well and check them each ride along with your oil level. I am not sure about Powderlites Kit but with mine I have to put in about an extra liter of coolant due to the lines being re-routed and going to the turbo. If you are doing the install yourself be careful on the head shim and head torque specs. Follow the directions closely and use proper torque specs and procedures. Get the Nytro Shop Manual for reference.

Good luck.

Motleyone

 

[yammi4ever]

Great info guys, just what I am looking for. Anyone else feel free to add more. I should have said I will be putting a 151 m-10 under this for mountain riding and leaving the 144 under it for midwest riding. Thinking about setting the 151 back a few inches and going a little longer, but that will be another post.

Also, this will be a pump gas system around 8# at sea level and 10 to 12 at elevation.

 

[EZmoney]

Ha Ha once you turn up the boost you wont want to go back to 8 pounds. Tell me if im right after a few rides of both,would ya. If i were you and going with a new skid as you are i would go with the 162 you will have good all around ridding still. Get some more opinions before you order your track and skid and make sure a 151 is what you want.Like motelyone said,get a shock wave helix and super tips or power quest for weights it makes life easier for tunning to perfection on the hill. The guys summed it up good for ya on here as far as things to watch for. Check you hose clamps so there not loose for boost leaks,run good fuel "ALWAYS", build a pressure tester to check for leaks,You will need it one day because they can be hard to find at times.Other than that wait for snow and turbo 101 as you put it starts when you get it out for the first time and on from there,you will learn as you go. But learn all you can about the sled,kit and rb3 so you not stumped when something goes wrong.

 

[Why Not]

Just a couple things I had to learn the hard way and I find guys dealing with on the mountain all the time.

When setting up your clutching remember your motor is reving faster than the gauge is showing. You may think your only at 9,500 RPM and running bad but your actually into the limiter. Learn to recognize what happens when you hit the limiter. It will save you some frustration in tuning.

Do the research on how to get set up correctly to start, but these machines are not all equal. You have to give your sled what it wants to run. Be smart and safe about it, but don't be afraid to play with it a little. I have owned two of the same sleds set up exactly identical, but they each required slightly different clutching and fuel. A kit builder can only get you so close. After that the fine tuning is up to you.