Trying to Fully Understand why a Belt Drive.

[boondocker97]

I got mine for the same reasons as above. I also broke my stock chain with less than 500 miles on it, in a creek bottom, in deep snow, with the track locked up. Had to open up the chain case to get the chain out and then drag the sled by hand a couple hundred feet because the other sleds were getting stuck trying to tow it out of there. Good thing there were 6 of us that day.

I also geared my sled up and put a lighter track shaft in at the same time when I put my belt drive in, so I honestly cannot say how much help the belt was over the chain. The overall package helped my sled noticeably though. My friends also noticed the improvement on my sled. It pulls harder and spools up quicker. I also didn't have to adjust the clutching to go up with the ratio either, which tells me it was pure gain. Tom at TKI says that it is pretty typical to pull one step higher gearing without clutching changes on sleds that were well-clutched before the conversion. Even on stock sleds. As for C3 vs TKI, I've never dealt with C3 before but I do know the customer service from Tom is exceptional. He also makes all his parts in-house so if you need something that is out of stock by chance, he might be able to get it made quicker.

I already had a hood/intake, can, and rigid tube running boards on my sled since it was a pro-lite, but I would spend your money in those 3 places before a belt drive.

 

[j.janke]

I got mine for the same reasons as above. I also broke my stock chain with less than 500 miles on it, in a creek bottom, in deep snow, with the track locked up. Had to open up the chain case to get the chain out and then drag the sled by hand a couple hundred feet because the other sleds were getting stuck trying to tow it out of there. Good thing there were 6 of us that day.

I also geared my sled up and put a lighter track shaft in at the same time when I put my belt drive in, so I honestly cannot say how much help the belt was over the chain. The overall package helped my sled noticeably though. My friends also noticed the improvement on my sled. It pulls harder and spools up quicker. I also didn't have to adjust the clutching to go up with the ratio either, which tells me it was pure gain. Tom at TKI says that it is pretty typical to pull one step higher gearing without clutching changes on sleds that were well-clutched before the conversion. Even on stock sleds. As for C3 vs TKI, I've never dealt with C3 before but I do know the customer service from Tom is exceptional. He also makes all his parts in-house so if you need something that is out of stock by chance, he might be able to get it made quicker.

I already had a hood/intake, can, and rigid tube running boards on my sled since it was a pro-lite, but I would spend your money in those 3 places before a belt drive.

Thanks a lot! Ya i already have an hps can and im not keen on a new hood/intake so i was thinking or adding a few frog skinz to the front near the intake (as Brett Lindermen recommended). I like the B&M fab burly running boards but we will see. I like the idea of abelt rive just not sure with the canadian dollar being so chitty that i have to pay an extra 35% on anything out of the states. Still go a few weeks to decide what to do! && days till first ride boys!

 

[bopper]

One thing to consider is c3 is Canadian so that may help with the dollar difference


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[TURBIE]

Thanks a lot! Ya i already have an hps can and im not keen on a new hood/intake so i was thinking or adding a few frog skinz to the front near the intake (as Brett Lindermen recommended). I like the B&M fab burly running boards but we will see. I like the idea of abelt rive just not sure with the canadian dollar being so chitty that i have to pay an extra 35% on anything out of the states. Still go a few weeks to decide what to do! && days till first ride boys!

Get aC3 they ship out of St.Albert Alberta or you can pick it up yourself because you live near there.

 

[F_ast]

I could not believe the instantaneous power and throttle response just from adding a belt drive. My good buddies sled sold me on NEEDING on for myself this season. They are pricey, but they are well worth the performance gains as well as the maintenance aspects and easy gear changes. Not to mention if you Grenade a chain you are in trouble.

Hope to get mine installed in the next month (TKI 2.42 ratio with oil tank)

 

[mountain_tamer]

Sent you a PM j.janke

 

[0neoldfart]

To the OP...

There are a lot of arguments between chain vs. belt. A few things to consider:
- The internet blows sh*t way out of proportion. Some guys have had chain / gear / tensioner failures, some haven't. This is a fact.
- the silent chain has been around for a lot of years. However, the newer engines have a "little" more power. I don't believe the silent chain is up to the task, especially when it's manufactured in China.
- If you are adding a deeper lugged track, a big bore, a turbo or a combination of all three without beefing up your driveline, you are riding on borrowed time. The question isn't "IF" you have a failure, it's more like "WHEN". If you only keep your sled for one season, you get away without it.
- HYVO chains and gear sets are very strong, but they are heavier then a belt set. In a world where we spend insane amounts of money to lighten our sled and gain performance, the belt drive is a win/win, no matter who's kit it is. Less rotating mass is a definite performance gain, period. Is one stronger then the other? Possibly - I don't recall seeing any comparison durability tests, but I see a lot of race cars running superchargers that are belt driven (and it is a similar style of belt) .
- If you ride a STOCK sled that you trade in every second year, a belt drive is a waste of money from a financial standpoint. But if you keep your machine awhile or modify it, I feel it is a worthwhile upgrade - especially if you ride in a very small group and ride remote areas with minimal traffic (I usually only ride with one or two other riders at the most, and stay clear of the "well known" riding areas, so the ability to change a belt in the field is important to me...)
- Although I have no experience with MVM or TKI, it sounds as though they make a good product. From my personal experience, the C3 setups I have have been very good, and as a bonus, they are in my backyard, so if I needed a belt or a different pulley for whatever reason, it is readily available. If you are in Canada, buying local only makes sense, so IF you need parts, you aren't waiting 10 days for shipping / customs during a very short riding season. I personally have installed 6 of C3's drives (on my own equipment and on other's sleds), and have yet to hear any negative feedback - the secret to longevity is proper belt tension.

 

[ranger12]

I think something to think about here is that on all of the C3 belt drives that I have purchased, I get stiffer motor mounts that don't flex as much as the stock Cat mounts. Some people might say they feel more vibration in their feet and stuff, but that is what they are intended to do. If your motor can flex more in your chassis everything is going to get misaligned under acceleration and get out of spec and you are going to have major belt problems, loss of performance and lower track speeds. One of the major issues associated with belt problems is misalignment. Am I the only person that sees this or is everybody just looking for the cheapest belt drive on the market to just say that they have one? Does the C3 belt drive kit still include the stiffer motor mounts? There has to be a difference in your purchase price of the kits and ease of install involved if you include the motor mounts or not.

 

[snowfreak81]

Yes you can still get stiffer mounts along with jackshaft bearings! Also belt wins in my books as it is waaay more fun riding back to the truck then getting pulled

 

[minet]

belt drive

not the first way i would spend a grand modding my sled.

guy that said superchargers are belt driven .. thats not a drive line belt is it , i think your looking at the belt that runs the pulley off the motor for the supercharger itself.. not a power transfer / driveline

loss of rotating mass being a performance argument lacks the physics to back it up in my opinion.

static weight loss is always good

i dont know about any durability argument. but if both fail .. a belt would be easier to change in the field. but a drive line belt or chain is not my first concern of things that could fail when i go sledding


i like the belt drive systems, its just not how I would spend my first grand in modifying my sled.. but it may be yours

 

[teamhoser129]

I was there when boondocker97 broke his chain. That was one of the reasons I became sold on a belt drive. I have a 12 HCR with 3in track, TKI belt drive, trail tank, short seat, B and M boards, K-Mod, raptors, slydogs, 38in front end with exit triple rates, jaws pipe, skinz can, and a power commander 5 w/ign. Yes I know... way too much money on one sled. Anyways, the biggest improvements for the money by far that I would recommend would be the B and M boards ( gave a lot more imput and control over sled), second would be the Jaws pipe and power commander. The pipe and power commander are similar in price to the belt drive but will give you night and day difference in performance. Now that being said, I do feel that the belt drive gave the sled a noticeable difference in snap and throttle response. I also did not have to change my clutching with the belt drive and I run 8 tooth drivers. If you are only going to do a few things and are on a limited budget those are my recommendations.