Trimming Rails?
- Thread starter xring60
- Start date
Can you show us a picture of the other side (speedo bearing side). Thanks
I'm sure you'd see a huge improvement "planing out on the snow" by getting the chaincase and even further more by putting in the 8 tooth drivers. The 7 tooths make a nasty sharp radius and make a larger attack angle.. Good Luck! Let me know if there is anything else that you need..
Andy
Andy
Interesting...Thanks for the detailed pics, I have some more questions on this install as I'm currently working on the same thing and would like to have her back up and running ASAP as the snow is coming. As I understand when you install the Avid case it drops you down a fair bit. I have been told by Robbie @ Avid that the rear suspension has to be moved back and down 1"? I'm only going from a 151' to a 155' as I bought a takeoff 09' Dragon Skid. Is he refering to the front mount holes or the rear mounts or i would suspect both? I can't see why I'd have to move the suspension at all as it should just bolt in but I'll go with his opinion as he is the expert. Can I see a pic of how you re-locateed your suspension to accomodate the case? The more I look into this the more I'm not sure if I'm qualified for this after more than a 6 pack.?? I intend on using the 8 tooth 3" pitch drivers. Should I go with a longer track than the 155" with the 155" skid to get away from having to trim the rails? My skid did not come with any wheels on the skid so I'm open to any setup on the skid to accomodate track length.
QUOTE - "A track has fiberglass rods crossways every 2.52" or 3", making it very stiff around each rod for an inch or so. The track doesn't want to bend in these areas. Bending these stiff areas around a small idler wheel takes valuable horsepower. Using a larger diameter eight-inch wheel causes the track to bend less, reducing drag, allowing the track to roll freer and making more power available for the "woo-hoo".
Running with small idlers and stock drive wheels is kind of like having your parking brake partially engaged.
If you use an anti-ratchet combo driver, you can run your track much looser without ratcheting. A looser track flows around the bigger idlers even easier. A well known performance shop observed a track speed increase of 5-10% with the bigger wheels and combo drivers. The bonus from using big wheels to increase track speed is that you increase performance without affecting the life of your engine.
So to my understanding I need these Anti Ratchett Drivers but doesn't say anywere that I need to trim my rails to make them fit!! HELP ME PLEASE
Last Question is on gearing, What's everyone doing for gearing with these Cases and Longer Tracks?
QUOTE - "A track has fiberglass rods crossways every 2.52" or 3", making it very stiff around each rod for an inch or so. The track doesn't want to bend in these areas. Bending these stiff areas around a small idler wheel takes valuable horsepower. Using a larger diameter eight-inch wheel causes the track to bend less, reducing drag, allowing the track to roll freer and making more power available for the "woo-hoo".
Running with small idlers and stock drive wheels is kind of like having your parking brake partially engaged.
If you use an anti-ratchet combo driver, you can run your track much looser without ratcheting. A looser track flows around the bigger idlers even easier. A well known performance shop observed a track speed increase of 5-10% with the bigger wheels and combo drivers. The bonus from using big wheels to increase track speed is that you increase performance without affecting the life of your engine.
So to my understanding I need these Anti Ratchett Drivers but doesn't say anywere that I need to trim my rails to make them fit!! HELP ME PLEASE
Last Question is on gearing, What's everyone doing for gearing with these Cases and Longer Tracks?
When you move your rear skid, you need to move all 4 attachment points the same distance.
I assume you're riding style is "steep and deep" or you wouldn't be doing this mod.. If all your trying to do is go from a 151 to 155 then I wouldn't be installing the chaincase. I personally am going from a 159 2" to a 174 3" so I need all the room I can get in the front of tunnel. If I was you I'd go to a 163x16x2.5 camo extreme or even 163x16x3" camo extreme
Use 8" wheels for the rear wheels (I believe that was what the dragon's came with stock)
Typically when you install anti-ratchet's you're going to trim the rails because of the points of the drivers come into contact with the rails. Also, 8 tooth 3.0 pitch drivers are going to be larger than stock, so your even that much closer to the rails.
When you relocate your bolt for the front of the rear skid there is enough room on the stock steel tunnel plate to put your new hole. If not, I welded some 4130 cro-mo to the edge of the stock tunnel just for security and piece of mind. For the rear I machined a drop bracket. Maybe, it's because your using a dragon rear susp. but I moved my susp down 3/4" and back 2". Hopefully I got all your ?'s.. If you need anything else feel free to ask!
Here is a pic of the drop bracket.
Yes I ride the steep and deep, I elected to go with the 155' because i got a killer deal on the Dragon takeoff, and it was basically what I was looking for. I didn't realy want to go with the 174' track or the 162' for that matter. 155' will be just perfect as I love to jump my cliffs and play in the trees as well. Basically where I ride its deep pow everywhere all the time and its the best length for my riding style. I am going with the 2.5" Camo Xtreme is the reason for the chaincase mod. What have you decided to go with for gearing?
Yep, no doubt it would be an improvement, I have been running this setup since 05 and back then it was your only option. Let me know how it all turns out. Thanks
I'd go with 19-42 or even 43..some people don't believe in gearing changes but in my case it really made a nice difference in clutch/belt heat. Plus I think it gives you quicker response in the trees and that's all my group rides.
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