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Trailer Ducting Install This Weekend

Picture no worky!
I like the idea of a lockable box too. I just didn't want to add the additional weight on the tongue. Just make a few vent holes in the box for venting when you climb in elevation.
I plan to add a few creature comforts inside to stay overnight now and then and I need to keep the weight down to a minimum 'till I buy a real truck!
(Dodge 1500 is a joke, wimpiest truck I've ever owned)
 
Adrenaline...here is the picture that I tried to post...

mikeemail049.jpg



BY THE WAY...

HAS ANYONE EVER THOUGHT OF RUNNING THE EXHAUST OF THE FURNACE OUT THE BOTTOM OF THE TRAILER??? I WOULD PREFER DOING THIS THAN CUTTING HOLES IN THE SIDE OF MY TRAILER AS I COULD ALWAYS REPAIR THE FLOOR IF FOR SOME REASON I TOOK THE FURNACE OUT OF THE TRAILER...HHHHMMMMMM:confused::confused:
 
Hot air rises so I wouldn't vent through the floor. The gas wouldn't clear the furnace and either cause it to shut down or ???
 
Here how my tank is mounted. And its located so that I can jack knife the trailer all the way with room to spare. The tank is a 100# unit, if I were to do it again, I would go with two smaller tanks, and change them out as needed.

frontoftrailerout1.jpg frontoftrailerout2.jpg
 
PERFECT Midge!! I am sure my truck will NOT hit my little box that I am mounting up there...well, not sure but about 97% right now:face-icon-small-dis

Even with a fresh air intake the furnace must spark to ignite...I think this is the issue with having the tank inside the trailer...however, wyota has done it with no problem whatsoever...and he is a smart man:face-icon-small-coo

I had the night off last night so got a little more done to the trailer...here is what I accomplished.

Cabinet-
MyTrailer033.jpg

MyTrailer035.jpg


LP/CO Detector(a must)
MyTrailer034.jpg
 
I believe what TA is showing is that he plummed his LP tank's overflow vent outside so that when the heat from the furnace expands the gas in the tank it will vent outside, not into the interior of the trailer.

He told me about this when I was thinking about where I would install my tanks.

I also "Borrowed" Midge's tank mounting idea but built it for two 70# tanks so I could cover them with the nifty plastic cover.
 
As long as the tanks are filled to a safe level they will not vent from the relief valve unless exposed to very high temperature. PM me if you need more info on this..... while it is not generally considered safe practice to store cylinders indoors because the LP expands as it warms it is doable with a few precautions...
 
Hillclmbr...

I finished the furnace today (well, pretty much done anyway) so I will snap some pictures tomorrow night when I go back out to button some things up.
 
I love my heater. I would recommend that you find a propane tank you can mount under the trailer. I found one on Crags list off a motor home. I also have a converter that keeps my battery up. I plug it in when I am at home. I have a programmable thermostat I purchased at Wal-Mart for 20.00. It is for the home but uses a battery to run it. Works great.

Here are some older photos.
DSC_0014.jpg

DSC_0013.jpg


If you are intrested I can take more pics of teh battery and propane tank set up. You will find out these units do use some propane and battery!
 
where are you pulling your fresh air in from?? I see you have vented the exhaust out the side, but with the atwoods they pull in the air right around exhaust dump. you've got some great ideas. what guys have to realize is there isnt' a right and wrong way to do things with these trailers. everyone comes up with different ideas and they all work. the one thing I would suggest for you shelve is to put some kind of lip around the outside perimeter so things don't fall off. minor detail.

where did you get the coat hang dealios? they look pretty cool.
 
that looks like the same outside wallplate my trailer has... the combustion air supply enters thru all the holes on each side of the exhaust which is the part labeled "hot"
 
Combustion Air

I am burning inside air and not really "sucking in outside air" directly for combustion...

I know this is controversial, but I feel that my trailer is BY NO MEANS air tight and there should be suffficient cracks/crevices/vents open to allow fresh air to seep into the trailer so that we will not end up going nighty night and not knowing it. For instance, as mentioned, the exterior exhaust plate allows fresh air in from around the flexible exhaust hose...

PLUS, you gotta notice the LP/CO detector just in case my theory isn't quite correct:face-icon-small-ton

As far as the coat hangers, they came from spacesavers.com and I think they were like $15 a piece or something.

NOW, all I have to do is figure out why my furnace would NOT IGNITE last night when I was trying it for the first time:cool::rolleyes::mad: For some reason the fan would run but it wouldn't spark the igniter...think maybe I have low voltage on my battery perhaps:confused::confused:
 
OH, and if anyone needs some installation instructions for one of these furnaces (or wiring diagram or anything like that) don't hesitate to contact me as I went online and printed a bunch of them off to make sure I did things right...too bad I didn't follow the "recommended" installation procedures basically at all:D:D
 
I have a battery charger and a couple of extra deep cycle batteries you could borrow if you need them. If you need more combustion air, crack your roof vent a little. Does your CO detector have a memory to show that it went off previously? If so run the heater overnight and see if the detector goes off.
 
Most RV furnaces are power vented thru the outside vent. Yours looks like an atwood-IV 8525... why not just vent it out the hole you have already cut?
 
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