track tension

[thump426er]

Track Tension??

Alright, not finding what I'm looking for in a search and simple question but new to the Pro. What track tension are guys guys getting away with on the Pro? Been a cat M guy since 2005 and have always ran track a smidge tighter than ratcheting,,,, so super loose as in hanging down at least 4" when picked up at rear. By the book for the Pro seems ridiculously tight, with 10lbs only 1/2",,,, seems too tight. thoughts??

 

[akrevrider]

I'm running mine at 1/2" with 10lbs per the manual. It stretched after the first 3 rides and is good now..right along with the QD belt.. Pretty sure if I ran it looser the QD sprocket could tear some of the belt cogs if the track were to jump.

 

[LoudHandle]

Debunking the loose track-Extrovert, Urban Performance Legend / Myth

Running a track that loose is a very popular Urban Performance Legend / Myth (and Avid and others have made a mint by propagating this legend, and pushing their Extrovert drivers), all you do is add drag and allow the paddles to fold over. Let me try and draw a picture of what happens and why the "ridiculously tight, with 10lbs only 1/2",,,, seems too tight" is actually better in both performance and track and hyfax life.

The driver pulls the track from the top and pushes it out the bottom. So when accelerating the track is tight from the tail rollers to the drivers, any slack that you do not take out, is taken up in waves on the bottom where the track meets the snow (much like the Chinese bred Shar-Pei, dog with wrinkled skin). When the track is hitting the snow with these waves, rather than the paddles hitting the snow straight on and biting in, they are often folded over backwards and just slide and slip. You are losing traction, adding drag and friction, accelerating track wear (over flexing it), increasing Hyfax wear, etc.

What would you rather drive on? A washboard country road (running a loose track) or a freshly paved road (running a properly tensioned track)?

While it seems to roll easier when you are dragging it around the shop, in reality it is detrimental in every way. If you really want to gain performance and decrease rolling resistance. Increase driver diameter as well as rear tail roller diameter and tension the track as described in the manual.

Extroverts were designed by lazy people who don't want to do preventative maintenance and marketed as the fix all by those who will blindly take your money and encourage you to spend even more and buy a needed anti-stab kit.

My two cents, hope I explained that adequately for you.

 

[thump426er]

thanks for the responses. I had never thought of it that way (waves, folding over etc) yet I have witnessed this with previous sleds when they were upside down and throttle pinned. The track did exactly as you mention,,, hmmmm. makes sense from that regard.

 

[sledneck_03]

Track Tension??

I'm running mine at 1/2" with 10lbs per the manual. It stretched after the first 3 rides and is good now..right along with the QD belt.. Pretty sure if I ran it looser the QD sprocket could tear some of the belt cogs if the track were to jump.

I dont have my book with me. Where do you measure again? Its like 18" forward from the back idler?


Edit:

Never mind googled it! 16" forward from rear axle.

 

[4Z]

I dont have my book with me. Where do you measure again? Its like 18" forward from the back idler?


Edit:

Never mind googled it! 16" forward from rear axle.

16". Basically right below where the rear scissor arm bolts in the rail.

 

[sledneck_03]

Track Tension??

16". Basically right below where the rear scissor arm bolts in the rail.

Yah i set it at that point. No weight just my best mechanic push down about ten lbs on the track lol.

Way better than i was. It was almost 2" after only 120 miles. Good thing i didnt shear teeth on my QD belt.

 

[sled_guy]

Add one more thing to your description... the track has friction where it contacts anything in the suspension. This is no where greater than at the drivers. So as the track rolls around the drivers it wants to stick to the drivers and continue rolling around. One of the waves you reference is setup between the driver and the front of the rails. This is why suspensions are designed this day to have the rails as close to the drivers as possible.

When you run a loose track then the wave that gets setup in that area between the driver and the front of the suspension gets even worse... robbing hp, wearing hifax, stabbing tracks.

sled_guy

Running a track that loose is a very popular Urban Performance Legend / Myth (and Avid and others have made a mint by propagating this legend, and pushing their Extrovert drivers), all you do is add drag and allow the paddles to fold over. Let me try and draw a picture of what happens and why the "ridiculously tight, with 10lbs only 1/2",,,, seems too tight" is actually better in both performance and track and hyfax life.

The driver pulls the track from the top and pushes it out the bottom. So when accelerating the track is tight from the tail rollers to the drivers, any slack that you do not take out, is taken up in waves on the bottom where the track meets the snow (much like the Chinese bred Shar-Pei, dog with wrinkled skin). When the track is hitting the snow with these waves, rather than the paddles hitting the snow straight on and biting in, they are often folded over backwards and just slide and slip. You are losing traction, adding drag and friction, accelerating track wear (over flexing it), increasing Hyfax wear, etc.

What would you rather drive on? A washboard country road (running a loose track) or a freshly paved road (running a properly tensioned track)?

While it seems to roll easier when you are dragging it around the shop, in reality it is detrimental in every way. If you really want to gain performance and decrease rolling resistance. Increase driver diameter as well as rear tail roller diameter and tension the track as described in the manual.

Extroverts were designed by lazy people who don't want to do preventative maintenance and marketed as the fix all by those who will blindly take your money and encourage you to spend even more and buy a needed anti-stab kit.

My two cents, hope I explained that adequately for you.

 

[inkstreme_05]

running a 2012 Switchback assault 144 2" (stock). I don't know if there is a thread already that someone can direct me too or not. but i think my track came too tight from the dealership. when I have the sled lifted off the ground the track barely sags. i would have a tough time even getting a finger between the sliders and the track. ive never played with the track tension before and not sure how it should be and how to make sure its not too loose. If someone cane give me some info that would be great. THANKS!

 

[tuneman]

Here you go:

 

[wi.switchback]

On my sba i've got about an inch of sag on mine with no ratcheting issues.

 

[inkstreme_05]

On my sba i've got about an inch of sag on mine with no ratcheting issues.

and is that with weight on the track? or just free hanging?

 

[pulltype_polaris]

A tight track (within spec) will only turn tough by hand. When on snow and under power it will wrinkle less and turn easier than a loose track.

 

[Lind]

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=345730&highlight=track+tension

found this thread using the search tool, lots of good info in here...

 

[pura vida]

Loud Handle does a good job describing the effects of a loose track in the referenced thread. Although I've had this conversation multiple times in multiple threads it seems to fall on def ears more often than it should unfortunately.

My one question I have from Polaris's tension guide is, do you hang 10LBS from each side and set them individually or hand it from the center and set them at the same time?

PV

 

[Scott]

When my sled gets bobbing or pogo-sticking on big washboards or bombed out trails, I often get a slapping or knocking that I feel in the footwells with my feet.

Could that be a loose track slapping the top of the tunnel?

 

[mrquick68]

great info and explained well.

 

[stormrider3]

running a 2012 Switchback assault 144 2" (stock). I don't know if there is a thread already that someone can direct me too or not. but i think my track came too tight from the dealership. when I have the sled lifted off the ground the track barely sags. i would have a tough time even getting a finger between the sliders and the track. ive never played with the track tension before and not sure how it should be and how to make sure its not too loose. If someone cane give me some info that would be great. THANKS!

If you are lifting the sled by the back bumper, that will give you a false read.
Read the line under picture in one of the above posts.

 

[pura vida]

If you are lifting the sled by the back bumper, that will give you a false read.
Read the line under picture in one of the above posts.

That was only applicable to the rush rear suspension due to the articulating rear skid. Lifting any RMK or Switchback by the back bumper will work just fine.

PV

 

[pura vida]

So same question I asked in the other track tension thread, should you hang the 10lbs on the side of the track you are setting then move to the other side? or hang the weight in the middle of the track and set both sides?

PV