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Track alignment on 3"

I've been loosing RPM lately and not sure if it's different snow conditions but in looking over my sled I notice the track only has 1/16-1/8" of side clearance on the forward left tunnel but has 1/4-3/8" on the forward right. Anyone else look at there's and notice the same?

My dealer looked it over and said everything is within spec (drivers, bearings, no bent tunnel) but it just doesn't seem right. The track is riding on the right side of the extrovert driver....doesn't seem like there is anything other than tension to bring it to the right?

Rt
 
I've been loosing RPM lately and not sure if it's different snow conditions
Rt


I'm having the same problem and cant figure it out. Ive had to drop about 3 grams on the weights to get my RPM back. My sled also seems to run too rich, even with the SLP pipe. The other thing I have noticed is the idle is not as smooth as it was, thing shakes as bad as my 14 does at idle and it wasnt like that when it was new. I have about 450 miles on now.

About your other question with the track...yes you need to align the drivers and that will require removing the drive shaft and putting in a press. Eric
 
I'm having the same problem and cant figure it out. Ive had to drop about 3 grams on the weights to get my RPM back. My sled also seems to run too rich, even with the SLP pipe. The other thing I have noticed is the idle is not as smooth as it was, thing shakes as bad as my 14 does at idle and it wasnt like that when it was new. I have about 450 miles on now.

About your other question with the track...yes you need to align the drivers and that will require removing the drive shaft and putting in a press. Eric

I'm thinking Polaris changes more then just the oil pump setting after 18 hours.
 
I'm thinking Polaris changes more then just the oil pump setting after 18 hours.

I'm thinking the same thing! I have lost power just as fast as I gained it back in the break in period. I would love to swap ECU's with someone with about 5 hours on it and see if I gain a bunch of RPM. Eric
 
I'm thinking the same thing! I have lost power just as fast as I gained it back in the break in period. I would love to swap ECU's with someone with about 5 hours on it and see if I gain a bunch of RPM. Eric

Did it directly corulate to hitting 18 hours? How much oil were you using before 18 hours and after? I'm at about 14 hours and using 20:1 or so...
 
May sound dumb but try a new drive belt.
Just a slightly educated hunch
See what that does and report back.
The 15 short tracks would loose a bunch of rpm at around the 20 hr Mark and about 9 out of 10 times it was a worn belt or something in the clutch.
 
May sound dumb but try a new drive belt.
Just a slightly educated hunch
See what that does and report back.
The 15 short tracks would loose a bunch of rpm at around the 20 hr Mark and about 9 out of 10 times it was a worn belt or something in the clutch.

Both clutches have been completely cleaned and inspected.... bushings, rollers, both springs rate checked. Belt clearance adjusted, belt has very little wear.

Ive checked about everything possible and the only thing I find is the plugs always look too rich. Compression is still the same as when it had 100 miles on it, have 500 miles on it now. Eric
 
Have you reported it to the dealer? I would say a loss of RPM is probably a warranty issue. As fat as mine is, I can see Polaris coming back with an ECU Remap
 
Have you reported it to the dealer? I would say a loss of RPM is probably a warranty issue. As fat as mine is, I can see Polaris coming back with an ECU Remap

Nope, I hate other people working on my stuff. Dont take my vehicles in for warranty work either.
If they come out with a reflash I'll take it in and wait while they do it.

I think my next step will be to start running Ethanol 91, in Non-ethanol mode and see if that will help the rich condition. Eric
 
Nope, I hate other people working on my stuff. Dont take my vehicles in for warranty work either.
If they come out with a reflash I'll take it in and wait while they do it.

I think my next step will be to start running Ethanol 91, in Non-ethanol mode and see if that will help the rich condition. Eric

At altitude non e mode is plenty safe. I couldn't pull over 8200ish rpm (which is what its been since day 1, sled now has 14 hrs on it) in Tog today running 10-62s on e mode, switching it to non e tomorrow and will report back.
 
At altitude non e mode is plenty safe. I couldn't pull over 8200ish rpm (which is what its been since day 1, sled now has 14 hrs on it) in Tog today running 10-62s on e mode, switching it to non e tomorrow and will report back.


Very true, but I was referring to switching to ethanol fuel, and running it in non-ethanol mode. Eric
 
in looking over my sled I notice the track only has 1/16-1/8" of side clearance on the forward left tunnel but has 1/4-3/8" on the forward right. Anyone else look at there's and notice the same.

I've noticed this on my 155 2.6. sks. The track is actually rubbing on the forward left tunnel and fraying the edge of the track. I only have about 20 miles on the sled.




.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I was running 10-69 weights, SLP pipe and turning 83-8400. Over the course of about the next 5 rides I lost 4-500 RPM and went to 10-68 and now 10-66 to get back to turning 83-8400.

All of this was riding in the same location, snow conditions have varied over that time but not enough to cause this big of a problem. Other then the loss of RPM (power),the sled starts perfect, does not have the bog issue some are having and runs normal.
It does however seem to run too rich (plug check) and idles rougher then when it had 100-200 miles on it. Sometimes just at cruising speed it doesnt sound right.... like maybe a power valve issue. Eric
 
I was running 10-69 weights, SLP pipe and turning 83-8400. Over the course of about the next 5 rides I lost 4-500 RPM and went to 10-68 and now 10-66 to get back to turning 83-8400.

All of this was riding in the same location, snow conditions have varied over that time but not enough to cause this big of a problem. Other then the loss of RPM (power),the sled starts perfect, does not have the bog issue some are having and runs normal.
It does however seem to run too rich (plug check) and idles rougher then when it had 100-200 miles on it. Sometimes just at cruising speed it doesnt sound right.... like maybe a power valve issue. Eric

Is there a way to wire the power valves wide open it the field just to eliminate them? I have head that the valves won't open all the way if sled is running to rich, some kind of fail safe mode. Have you checked all your sensors yet? What if the pipe temp sensor was reading that the pipe was to cool and is trying to add fuel to protect the motor? You are running an slp pipe that wants you to move the band on the pipe because of harmonics, always just an idea but it probable is to fat, the ecu just does what its told.
 
Both clutches have been completely cleaned and inspected.... bushings, rollers, both springs rate checked. Belt clearance adjusted, belt has very little wear.

Ive checked about everything possible and the only thing I find is the plugs always look too rich. Compression is still the same as when it had 100 miles on it, have 500 miles on it now. Eric


Not saying this is it but there is a good chance.
These belts dont show much wear but they either stretch or something happens and they start to bind up/create heat/ actually make the sled sound funny because it bogs it down.

If you look into dyno tech research website or Hcs web the shorty 800's had a bunch of issues with some sleds loosing rpm. Dyno Tech ran all kinds of dyno runs to try and see if motor was loosing power or what, ran test with valves wired open, all kinds of things, long and short of it was they have not found a motor on a sled that people were complaining about to have a internal motor issue. Some were TPS issues (need to set baseline at .700) most were either a belt or dirty clutches or rollers stuck in the primary, I think they even found 1 with a bound up secondary roller, there was a few random sensors that have gone bad and some but that will show up on a dealer scan a few worn motor mounts also. Honestly the main issue has been the belts and the clutch parts or TPS.

My personal short track 800ho was down about 350-400 rpm over a couple hundred miles, it was sluggish and got horrible mileage. I took it apart this fall and found nothing wrong but I cleaned everything good, replaced the belt, took to dealer to check the tps and they found it to be in spec. I took it out this winter and it rips like it should. These sleds seem to be really finicky on the belt from what I've seen.

Just trying to pass on whats been found from last season.
 
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