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TRA VIDEO - HOW IT WORKS (ramps dont move)

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OT. i think you have a different clutch then the rest of us. what are these clickers you speak of. i assume that your magic "clickers" are for adjustmet. why would you need to adjust the clutches from the factory setup? wait a minute, you do know that this is a fishing enthusiast forum right. we are all talking about the clutch on our Pflueger. wow, that was almost a huge missunderstanding.
 
one would wonder without movement caused by changing the clickers,where would the adjustment come from ? also seriously thinking that clutching solutions for the skidoos that the after market has been offering has been focused on the secondary far to much. i have installed a dj kit in rev chassis summit and it works resonably well ,but i am not a big fan of the hugely stiff primary spring or the fact that it is set up for a high clicker settiing . my experiance has always been from position #1 to #3 works the best no matter who "s kit you are running.i had to change weights accordingly. another thing i am not a big fan of is his advise to change weights instead of changing clickers for minor rpm adjustments while riding ..grief i have enuff crap in my pack without having to bring a torque wrench ,puller bolt, loctite button clips , etc etc .
 
Ramp Movement and the Operating Primary Clutch

I think a video is in order.

OT, please demonstrate clicker position adjustment and ramp movement while the engine and primary clutch are in operation. Please cycle the throttle so we can better understand how the ramp moves when you adjust clicker position while the primary clutch opens and closes. We really want an accurate picture of ramp movement while the clutch is in operation.

We are concerned with your safety so please wear loose fitting gloves to prevent your hands from burning on this POS clutch and please wear a scarf around you neck to prevent the breeze emitted from the clutch from making you sick.

Most importanty, please video tape this demonstration so that we can fully understand your position.
 
Well, I believe that the following axiom is appropriate in this situation:

You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make it drink.

I guess we'll all just have to agree to disagree, and move on. Because this thread is going nowhere... just like the others. By the way, nice visual aid Joey. I don't think there's any better explanation than that.:beer;
 
What is the argument here???

Yes, the ramps move when changing clicker settings.

No, the ramps do not move during clutch operation.

Considering how many times I have disassembled my TRA VII, it's a pretty simple concept to grasp without a mechanical engineering degree ;)
 
If I used a 410, 412, 417 ramp then the clicker position would have to be down in 2.
If I use a 413, 414, 415 ramp then the clicker position would have to be in 3 or 4.
Whatever clicker the calibration ends up in, it ends up in that. Can only work so much with the ramps that are available unless one comes up with a completely different ramp. (to which I did but still ends up in clicker 3 or 4).....sorry.

I could make a ramp that runs down in clicker 1 or 2 but I don't because I've studied enough about it that at this time I don't have the time available to do so. Presently I been making a ramp that works as if it's in clicker 3 or 4 for in the snow, but has a curve on it like clicker 2 or 1 for on the road.
You have to work in a timely manner with what's available.

If one's not satisfied, then get at doing your own thing, that's what I did. get your credit card and warm it up and prepared to be satisfied in a future time...
...or leave it stock.

----------------------------------
grief i have enuff crap in my pack without having to bring a torque wrench ,puller bolt, loctite button clips , etc etc
-If you are going to come up with your own calibration and it's going to fly right out of the garage without calibrating the flyweight for your personal requirements - I ask you to invite me to observe this, just give me 48 hours notice and I'll be there.
I want to see this because of the variation of rpms I've seen with different drivers. I mean, Im 245 and I calibrate to get my engine to run at 8300 rpms, but when my skinny little buddy of 170 lbs gets on my sled, the engine hits the rev limiter sometimes. Dalyn can clicker down one and yeah it runs better but he still has to mess with the flyweight to get 8300 but because of the curve of the 414 ramp, it backshift kind of sluggish at faster speeds. He'd just rather add 1.5 gram more in the present clicker and run my sled to get 8300.

Regarding weights and clicker recommendation, I make sure that I quote known established sources like Aaen/BRP/Acat/Cutler/Fett, because im just a pisshole in the snowbank in all this clutching biz that isn't very credible. If someone going to say something about me, I cover my arse with known printed material (because of guys like ot who know more than anyone)

------------------------------
Far as focusing on the secondary. From what I've read (Aaen/BRP/Acat/Cutler) say the secondary is a torque converter. It compares the load from the engine vs. the ground and variates the up/back shift while under full throttle. I have read it is the connection between the engine and the ground. I also read here n there about all this fuss about what helix angle works and what doesn't and if you don't give out the helix angles and spring forces then yer a jerk that don't want people to get their sled to run right... I mean, I can remember years ago when I started in all of this I would ask questions and guys would say "use this" or "use that" and these things didn't work. Then the manufacturers use a 44/33 this year, then a 42 that year then a 43/47 this year and a 50/40 on another year.
...so I figure, heck this might be something worth looking into this secondary thing and study a bit more.
 
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The TRA clutch employs an adjustable ramp that allows the operator to regulate the operating RPM of the engine for changing conditions and altitude.
The ramp adjustment is performed by turning a bolt with an eccentric shoulder, the different radius for each position changes the effective angle of the ramp and thereby will affect the initial engagement RPM and the maximum operating RPM . This adjustment can only be made manually while the engine is not running. The ramp remains in a fixed position during engine operation.
 
Yes the term Ski-Doo uses is "moveable ramp".
So in essence the ramp does move!:eek:
--------------
Originally Posted by Ace Freely View Post
I believe the proper nomenclature(?) would be "The ramps are moveable"

The very custom of a member here has previously made his "ramps move in operation" statements obdurate against whatever known facts to the contrary.

In essence the ramp does move, I agree, however do not move in operation.
The levers move in operation. :D
 
Hey Joe....I thought you were gonna have outline pictures of the ramps on your site. The handbooks I have from 04, 05, 06 don't have the profiles for the 433 or 434 ramps.
 
If I used a 410, 412, 417 ramp then the clicker position would have to be down in 2.
If I use a 413, 414, 415 ramp then the clicker position would have to be in 3 or 4.
Whatever clicker the calibration ends up in, it ends up in that. Can only work so much with the ramps that are available unless one comes up with a completely different ramp. (to which I did but still ends up in clicker 3 or 4).....sorry.

I could make a ramp that runs down in clicker 1 or 2 but I don't because I've studied enough about it that at this time I don't have the time available to do so. Presently I been making a ramp that works as if it's in clicker 3 or 4 for in the snow, but has a curve on it like clicker 2 or 1 for on the road.
You have to work in a timely manner with what's available.

If one's not satisfied, then get at doing your own thing, that's what I did. get your credit card and warm it up and prepared to be satisfied in a future time...
...or leave it stock.

----------------------------------
grief i have enuff crap in my pack without having to bring a torque wrench ,puller bolt, loctite button clips , etc etc
-If you are going to come up with your own calibration and it's going to fly right out of the garage without calibrating the flyweight for your personal requirements - I ask you to invite me to observe this, just give me 48 hours notice and I'll be there.
I want to see this because of the variation of rpms I've seen with different drivers. I mean, Im 245 and I calibrate to get my engine to run at 8300 rpms, but when my skinny little buddy of 170 lbs gets on my sled, the engine hits the rev limiter sometimes. Dalyn can clicker down one and yeah it runs better but he still has to mess with the flyweight to get 8300 but because of the curve of the 414 ramp, it backshift kind of sluggish at faster speeds. He'd just rather add 1.5 gram more in the present clicker and run my sled to get 8300.

Regarding weights and clicker recommendation, I make sure that I quote known established sources like Aaen/BRP/Acat/Cutler/Fett, because im just a pisshole in the snowbank in all this clutching biz that isn't very credible. If someone going to say something about me, I cover my arse with known printed material (because of guys like ot who know more than anyone)

------------------------------
Far as focusing on the secondary. From what I've read (Aaen/BRP/Acat/Cutler) say the secondary is a torque converter. It compares the load from the engine vs. the ground and variates the up/back shift while under full throttle. I have read it is the connection between the engine and the ground. I also read here n there about all this fuss about what helix angle works and what doesn't and if you don't give out the helix angles and spring forces then yer a jerk that don't want people to get their sled to run right... I mean, I can remember years ago when I started in all of this I would ask questions and guys would say "use this" or "use that" and these things didn't work. Then the manufacturers use a 44/33 this year, then a 42 that year then a 43/47 this year and a 50/40 on another year.
...so I figure, heck this might be something worth looking into this secondary thing and study a bit more.

Joe Stupid, all your BS lacks credibility .... And the fact remains that the ramps move..

FACT, when you click your clickers down from #5 to #4, #3, #2 or #1 the centrifical force as the primary rotates at entitle startup will move the ramps down from #5 to your selected #4, #3, #2, or #1 clicker position.


OT
 
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Joe Stupid, all your BS and the fact remains that the ramps move..

FACT, when you click your clickers down from #5 to #4, #3, #2 or #1 the centrifical force as the primary rotates at entitle startup will move the ramps down from #5 to your selected #4, #3, #2, or #1 clicker position.


OT

Are you high? Or have you just smoked yourself retarded? Because you honestly don't get it.
 
Joey nobody is calling you a piss hole in the snow,so dont get your panties in a bunch. your recomendation to me when i bought my rev kit was not to use the clickers for rpm adjustment.and yes i still had to warm up my credit card for a different primary spring and a trip through the goodie bin for some pin weight.but that is not the point . YOU said it wasnt all that hard or inconvenient to change pin weight while out on a ride.maybe if you do for a day or two just for tuning, if i wanted that kind of hassle i could probably find my old 94 vmax to fight with.another intresting thought ,the boys from BRP bought almost all of heel clickers first run of the cra clutch kits when they first came out . hmm
 
Joe Stupid, all your BS lacks credibility ....

OT
Those whom attack the arguer instead of the argument are the ones that lack credibility. And that still doesn't change the fact that the ramps in a TRA primary don't move other than when being adjusted.

And, since I no longer wish to participate in a bait-and-accuse game with someone who obviously picks keyboard fights for sport, you are now blocked.

Good day sir. I said good day.
 
Joe Stupid, all your BS lacks credibility .... And the fact remains that the ramps move..

FACT, when you click your clickers down from #5 to #4, #3, #2 or #1 the centrifical force as the primary rotates at entitle startup will move the ramps down from #5 to your selected #4, #3, #2, or #1 clicker position.


OT

............ and once the roller presses on the ramp the ramp presses on the clicker it remains in that fixed position. And that's a fact jack!
 
Joey nobody is calling you a piss hole in the snow,so dont get your panties in a bunch. your recomendation to me when i bought my rev kit was not to use the clickers for rpm adjustment.and yes i still had to warm up my credit card for a different primary spring and a trip through the goodie bin for some pin weight.but that is not the point . YOU said it wasnt all that hard or inconvenient to change pin weight while out on a ride.maybe if you do for a day or two just for tuning, if i wanted that kind of hassle i could probably find my old 94 vmax to fight with.another intresting thought ,the boys from BRP bought almost all of heel clickers first run of the cra clutch kits when they first came out . hmm

In 2001 BRP attempted to purchase Supertorquer from Randy and he refused BRP's multi-million dollar offer. Hmm

OT
 
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