TPS.....more things to check on your new Pro....

[AKSNOWRIDER]

I thought that when I read the original post that you got your schematics from, the author had specified using both a digital and analog meter.
One for one setting, one for the other.
IIRC the use of the el-cheapo analog meter was to see how smoothly the needle sweeped, this would show any dead spots between the wiper and the bands on the potentiometer (TPS) that is being tuned. This would be hard to see with a digital MM only.

Kinda' along the same lines as the old needle tachs. being more easy to read than the new Digital Tach. on the MFD's that roll numbers by so fast, it is hard to read where your at.

Thoughts?

thats exactly why they say to use an analog for testing the sweep..now the fluke meters do have an analog sweep bar on them that works ok if you go slow with your throttle movement..what I have found over the years..when a tps has a dead spot in the sweep..you dont need a meter to know it..the engine will flake out at exactly the same throttle position every single time it hits that spot..pretty obvious.....

 

[xTonyCRx]

How often have you seen the power supply to the TPS off from 5.0V? Is it difficult to actually measure the voltage of the plug with it connected? How exactly did you do this?

I recently purchased a CFI that I later found out had a scuffed PTO pistons that showed some signs of being lean so I want to check the TPS settings.

 

[rmk2112]

So, I still don't see any definitive answer for the baseline voltage.

Baseline: .71 ??

Idle: .93-.95 ??

 

[TRS]

Base is .698 volts with a 4.99v to 5.00v input

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

How often have you seen the power supply to the TPS off from 5.0V? Is it difficult to actually measure the voltage of the plug with it connected? How exactly did you do this?

I recently purchased a CFI that I later found out had a scuffed PTO pistons that showed some signs of being lean so I want to check the TPS settings.

over all it is vary rare for reference voltage to be off..but with that said..in the first 4 sleds I tested this season..3 were dead on 1 was over by a little bit(it ran fine and most likely a non issue but it was out of spec)..but polaris(and all manufacturers) want it checked before proceeding with the tps check..as far as testing it..I use a fluke meters non intrusive probe(that just means it wont damage the connector or wire)and slide it right into the back of the connector right next to the wire...fire the sled up and check voltage at idle..(in the past I have straightened a paperclip to do this),,,

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

So, I still don't see any definitive answer for the baseline voltage.

Baseline: .71 ??

Idle: .93-.95 ??

2112..base setting is .700 plus or minus .010 or .690 to .710...idle setting is .940 plus or minus .010 or .930 to .950...........

 

[TRS]

The manual states .700v +/- .010 but in bold print .698v as base setting. Have seen base settings this year as far out as .799v.

 

[briand]

I ended up Buying a 2012 800 Pro rmk about 2 weeks ago. I have about 100 miles on it and have been having problems with it going into reverse. Sometimes when you push the button the motor slows down and seems like it went into reverse but its still in forward not all the time but at times.

Read a lot about how the TPS could be an issue for this so I got myself a good tester and started to do all the checking to see how the settings were.

First off I checked the base voltage and with my fluke meter I am getting 5.134 volts with the engine idling. Now i have other meters as well and have verified that this seems to be right. Cheaper 2 other meters I have show 5.11 and 5.14 volts.

Right now the base setting is .738 volts and the idle setting is .956 volts

Ironically I have a old Samsung phone charger that has 5.133 volts output so this is how i can set the base and idle settings.

If it is safe to setup with this voltage do I add the 2.68% to the .70 base rate or just set it up at .700 and .930 idle?

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

I would set it to the .700 specs and try it...should be fine...

 

[briand]

OK got the TPS reset.

Used the 5.133 volts as the reference volts as this is the volts coming into the tps and set the the base at .70 and the idle at .930. Will take it out to test in the next day or two when it warms up a little. I know others say that it starts on the first pull now but mine does not. it takes 2 sometimes 3 pulls to start. The idle seems to be rougher then before. RPM's very from 1650 to 2000 rpm. Might have to adjust a little more but will try it first.

 

[Jeff K]

I would use a proper 5.00V source to set your Base and Idle settings, or adjust for the 2.68% difference in your case. There is a reason the service manual specifies a 4.999 - 5.000 reference voltage. Your values adjusted to a 5.00V reference would be 0.682V and 0.906V, both out of spec. It doesn't sound like much, but these things are VERY sensitive to being setup correctly. Most likely this is the cause of your rough idle. JMO

 

[ccclark]

Pics

Does anyone have photos of the throttle bodies with labels for each screw to adjust? I am building a tps tester and want to make sure I am 100% ready before starting. Can I do this with the throttle body still attached? I have tried to search for my answers but have not found them. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[briand]

OK this is what I ended up doing. First off talked to a mechanic friend and he said to check all the electrical plugs and make sure there is no moisture in any of them so this is what i did and blew them all out with air this morning let it dry all day and put dielectric grease in them all.

after I put all the plugs together tonight I check the input voltage on the TPS and it now reads 5.003 volts with the engine running so close enough now.

Now I have bought 3 9 volt batteries and 6, 5 volt regulators from "The Source" ( used to be radio shack in Alberta) and all of them are out by 2% to 2.5%

So I just used my Samsung charger and set the TPS with a 2.68% error factored in. So with 5.133 volts I set the base setting at .719 which is 2.68% more then .70 and the Idle at .955 which is 2.68% more then .930

Now after i hooked the TPS plug together I then started the engine and checked the idle voltage to see how close the setting is and i got a .928 volt reading with the engine running. SO I would say this is good to go.

Took it out for a rip and RPM's are up about 100 to 150 from before and runs crisp and smooth. Idle is much better now and reverse works good.

Very happy with the results.

 

[Norway]

Couple Q's to get my head wrapped good around this procedure:

1. The voltage for testing, is it NOT good to hook up 12V to the external power plug?

2. Physical test procedure? Hook up power, back of idle adjustment screw and adjust/twist tps to get a 0,70v reading? Then how to further adjust idle setting?

Unhook throttle cable as wel?

Thanks.

RS

 

[volcano buster]

Once the 0.70 V is set with the TPS, screw it down tight, double-check again. Then adjust the idle screw until you hit the idle number on the gauge. Lock it down, double-check that you didn't deviate, and reassemble everything.

 

[whittaker727]

So just out of curiosity, are you saying that the digital wrench will work for set up, but it's just not as accurate as the "home built" tester? Has anyone had theirs checked with the d.w. and then gone and adjusted it themselves and seen a positive reaction? Just wondering about the if it aint broke don't fix it thing ya know. If a person is clutched properly and reaching a desired RPM and their sled doesn't idle roughly, is it still worth checking for max performance?

 

[jsandgren10]

I'm a little confused on this. I understand how to check it and set it once you have the tester, but my question is do you have to order the tps harness from polaris and still build the regulator box, etc?

Or do you build it all from scratch with clips to hook onto the TPS? Or if you order the part from polaris does it have all you need but the 9v battery?

Just trying to debate what to do, mine is idling about 2200 rpm after my dealer said my tps was a bit low on voltage, so wanted to set it myself.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

So just out of curiosity, are you saying that the digital wrench will work for set up, but it's just not as accurate as the "home built" tester? Has anyone had theirs checked with the d.w. and then gone and adjusted it themselves and seen a positive reaction? Just wondering about the if it aint broke don't fix it thing ya know. If a person is clutched properly and reaching a desired RPM and their sled doesn't idle roughly, is it still worth checking for max performance?

actually it isnt a tester..the box is just putting reference voltage to the tps so you can test it with your multimeter..and yes a quality meter is more acurate then the DW....

I'm a little confused on this. I understand how to check it and set it once you have the tester, but my question is do you have to order the tps harness from polaris and still build the regulator box, etc?

Or do you build it all from scratch with clips to hook onto the TPS? Or if you order the part from polaris does it have all you need but the 9v battery?

Just trying to debate what to do, mine is idling about 2200 rpm after my dealer said my tps was a bit low on voltage, so wanted to set it myself.

You can order the factory test harness..or build it all fron scratch..both ways will work just fine..biggest thing is you have correct 5.0 V reference signal going in...and a high quality meter reading the output...this is a very very sensitive adjustment..I recommend everyone that does this recheck the setting at least 5 times for the base setting..it should be exactly the same every time before you proceed with the next part...

 

[die hard poo]

SLP is now making a cool harness to hook your sled's power unit to a car battery and test your tps and run your sled's ecu and accessories with out it running. Here is the link to it:
http://startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=24&productID=1782

 

[mike800]

Now to find the 15-20hp these motors are short.