Have you ever pulled a plug after a pull? Or looked at your wash on your pistons?
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I ride 8500+ and I have a ggb can on it. I can't remember what temp I was at but I wanna say it was usually 125-130 I usually looked at my rpm when I was climbing
I have also had issues with certain cans on my sled. What your talking about is the same issue I had when I ran a bikeman can on my cat. Took the can off and put it back to stock and it ran perfect. All bikemen would do for me is sell me a inline fuel reducer 10% off. They figured it was to rich. What a joke huh? Anyways I hope its not your ggb can tho as I have one on my 2015 assault and have never bought one before.
Bingo, I would bet money this is the issue.
I would change your spark plugs to rule that out. I have had two turboed sleds that would do the same thing and it was plugs.I could go all day, through the trees, and it was fine when you were in and out of it. Put it on the hill and 2/3 up the hill they would fall on their face. I have also seen it on stock pros. My wife's pro goes through a couple sets a year for some reason. It has done similar things like this. Might not be it but cheap to rule out.
Have you ever pulled a plug after a pull? Or looked at your wash on your pistons?
Have you tried a new belt and checked the motor mounts to make sure the clutches are keeping proper alignment?
No I have not something I will look at thanks!
DPG,
How can the can not have any effecting on it bogging? Hitting the rev limiter is because he took out weight from weights. The heart soaking caused by certain cans can cause bogging of a sled.
Checking the plugs after pulling a hill will tell you in your running lean or rich, if you are running lean you can change your helix to the lower final cut number, if you have a dual cut helix, and that will cause less load on the motor. In turn letting the motor run a little bit richer. And checking the wash is even more accurate than checking the plugs. To lean, and the sled will bog just like if it was running rich. I personally have seen clutch setups that run to much load on the bottom end and the sled has a slight bog at the bottom end and a majority of the time it's a lean bog. Where the stock map isnt sert up for the load Thats needed to engage the clutches.
I agree starting at ground zero and building from there. Meaning can the can off get the clutching set up where he wants it with a stock can and then add the back on the can and see if it runs or doesn't. And can won't give you that much performance that your would need to do major clutching again. The most I have ever seen is. +\- 200 rpms buy adding a can.
Rmk rdr are you running any kind a fuel box or trying to get all of this done off of but the stock mapping?
It could also be something as simple as cleaning your clutches. Dirty clutches rob HP many folks get into the routine of cleaning the clutches every 2nd or 3rd ride.
DPG
What's the best way to clean them? Just take them apart and spray em down with brake clean?? I have not cleaned them yet ha
What exactly do you mean when you say heat soaking? I also have 14.1 domes in my rk tek head and I run 50:50 100 octane and 91 with 10:1 legand oil mixed in the gas. Is there a website for tri city? I live in Minnesota and thinking maybe Indy Dan?
I'm gonna say no way its the can. I have the same can on my 13 pro, rkt drop in and low comp heads w/boondocker box, i ride cooke city and this year we rode at Burandts in CO i pull three grams heavier, and pull 8400 all day long!
I also run rooster weights, cooke city i run 5.2 in the heel and 1.6 in the tip, for 62.8 so not 3 over but prolly could add a little to pull 8300 (little safer)
Start heavy on the race fuel and take away. Better to have to much then not enough? Not enough and you will det and that's never good on a motor. Where did you get the heads? Did they not give you a approximate ration for race fuel. I was going to run 13.5 heads on my wife's pro but it was suggested I would need to run a fuel box on it so I decided to keep it stock.
Have you checked your compression?
If someone said you need 10% fuel your are running lean. Best fix buy a box and add fuel. Easy fix take some load of the motor. But then the sled won't pull as hard. And kind of defeats having the head and can. Either way will help. We usually run a black purple spring in the secondary. But that with Polaris weights and stock helix. And stock head. With your adjustable weight (mine are tri city adjustable weights) we run stock secondary spring and stock helix up to 10,000' and can keep the clutches pretty close to the same temp. Some guys run the black purple spring with stock helix. Gives them a little more rpms on longer pulls.