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Top of hill bogging down...HELP!!!!

R

Rmk_RDR

Member
Hey guys I thought since it's summer now id try to dig into a problem I had last year. So on my first trip of the year over New Years last year I was riding 3 ft of fresh pow and my sled would bog down when I was climbing and I kept taking weight out of my rooster adjustable weights and it got better but would still bog down on the top of climbs. So I went back in March and my sled was running awesome I put a new slp blue/pink primary spring in and it was rippin! But as the snow got deeper and harder my sled would bog down on climbs at the top again and none of my buddies had this problem. So my set up is a 2011 pro rmk 155 with rk tek drop in kit, rooster adjustable weights, slp blue/pink primary spring and a ggb can and I think it's my clutching or power valves but I need some feedback!!! Thanks
 
is it bogging or are you losing Revs?
Considering you are discussing the clutches, I assume you are losing Revs when a load is applied to the drive train (aka, climbing a hill).
Clutches may be binding not allowing the sled to backshift. Fully inspect the clutches, rebuild if necessary.
 
Fuel tank venting partially obstructed or not venting properly? That would fit in with what you're describing because of increased fuel consumption when it is working hard and the pump can't draw enough fuel. It would only show up after it draws a substantial amount of fuel out in a short period of time. Think of it as putting your finger on the end of a drinking straw full of water and trying to suck the water out.
 
Your either not getting enough Air or while riding deep powder or it's possible your exhaust is plugging with snow just enough to cause a slight bog..Does your Poo have a snow deflector ?

DPG
 
What secondary helix and spring are you running? As others have said, sounds like backshift issue... bumps up against the steepest part of the helix as ground speed drops and pulls you off the RPM.

Could also be a heat soak issue, but I haven't really seen that on a Pro.

I'd concentrate on the secondary clutch. Make sure its in top shape, delrin washer installed, etc.

sled_guy
 
X2

What are you running for clutching? What elevation and what's your riding style? You could try a little less helix on the final number. You might over rev a little on flats and when snow conditions are harder but will help hold rpms when the motor is loaded on long pulls.

How far does the rpm drop usually. Helix will be smaller rpm increments then changing a spring.
 
Thanks for the posts guys! I'm running stock secondary helix and spring and I don't have a delrin washer in either. I have an aftermarket fire n ice air intake mounted into the dash for more air into the intake, I have not checked into the tps at all and I do know these sleds are known for there tps and TSS problems as well but I still think it's my clutching because it only happens on long steep climbs and it doesn't matter if the snow is hard or not but in deep pow it's really a big issue trying to climb anything...it seems as if I don't have any back shift. So with that being said I'll have to look into some clutching threads again and see what I can find thinking of buying the lightweight team secondary as well...
 
X2

What are you running for clutching? What elevation and what's your riding style? You could try a little less helix on the final number. You might over rev a little on flats and when snow conditions are harder but will help hold rpms when the motor is loaded on long pulls.

How far does the rpm drop usually. Helix will be smaller rpm increments then changing a spring.

it would usually drop down to about 7 i would guess i would hold 8200-8300 up every hill and then towards the top it would start bogging down when i would lose momentum so if i went with a different spring what rate do you think i should go with? i have stock spring and helix in and my primary has slp blue/pink
 
What elevation do you ride?

I don't know how much money you want to spend on clutching but Tri city Polaris in Utah has a really good clutch set up, if you are just using a can.

Another problem you can be having is with the can/pipe hear soaking. We tried acouple different cans and a majority of the guys I ride with run the mbrp can.
 
I ride 8500+ and I have a ggb can on it. I can't remember what temp I was at but I wanna say it was usually 125-130 I usually looked at my rpm when I was climbing
 
What elevation do you ride?

I don't know how much money you want to spend on clutching but Tri city Polaris in Utah has a really good clutch set up, if you are just using a can.

Another problem you can be having is with the can/pipe hear soaking. We tried acouple different cans and a majority of the guys I ride with run the mbrp can.

What exactly do you mean when you say heat soaking? I also have 14.1 domes in my rk tek head and I run 50:50 100 octane and 91 with 10:1 legand oil mixed in the gas. Is there a website for tri city? I live in Minnesota and thinking maybe Indy Dan?
 
I have also had issues with certain cans on my sled. What your talking about is the same issue I had when I ran a bikeman can on my cat. Took the can off and put it back to stock and it ran perfect. All bikemen would do for me is sell me a inline fuel reducer 10% off. They figured it was to rich. What a joke huh? Anyways I hope its not your ggb can tho as I have one on my 2015 assault and have never bought one before.
 
What exactly do you mean when you say heat soaking? I also have 14.1 domes in my rk tek head and I run 50:50 100 octane and 91 with 10:1 legand oil mixed in the gas. Is there a website for tri city? I live in Minnesota and thinking maybe Indy Dan?


Does the bog occur only when in climbing in powder ? Or does the bog also occur when climbing in setup snow ?

DPG
 
Does the bog occur only when in climbing in powder ? Or does the bog also occur when climbing in setup snow ?

DPG

It does it in set up snow and deep powder to it was so bad that I took some weight out And when approaching the hill I would hit the rev limiter and then hit rpms perfect mid hill then towards the top it would bog down
 
It does it in set up snow and deep powder to it was so bad that I took some weight out And when approaching the hill I would hit the rev limiter and then hit rpms perfect mid hill then towards the top it would bog down

If your hitting the rev limiter when you approach the hill you need to add more weight.....At mid hill your rpm has dropped into place (perfect) due to the load being put on the sled at mid point of the hill bring the rpm down to where it should be (momentarily)....At the top of hill your sled falls on its face and can't hold the load and is bogging down because you don't have enough weight to hold the rpm in check.

Weather your on the flats, on the hill, in deep powder, or in setup snow your peak rpm should always be the same.

Also clutch spring are junk and need replaced approx every 500 miles or so.

DPG
 
I would change your spark plugs to rule that out. I have had two turboed sleds that would do the same thing and it was plugs.I could go all day, through the trees, and it was fine when you were in and out of it. Put it on the hill and 2/3 up the hill they would fall on their face. I have also seen it on stock pros. My wife's pro goes through a couple sets a year for some reason. It has done similar things like this. Might not be it but cheap to rule out.
 
How did you figure out your race to pump gas ratio? I am running. 13.6 heads on my 910 at the same elevation and am only using 1.5 gallons per full tank. Any more than that and my sled loses it's crisp throttle response and doesn't run right.

Have you ever reached Det on your sled? I would replace plugs like suggested and then start taking out some race fuel slowly. It's hard to pin point one thing it's could be a lot of little things adding up to the bog. Not proper clutching, your can, heads, timing, fuel ratio. Every little thing you do to your sled takes or adds something.

When tuning my 910, as much as I wanted a wam bam tune. I found out really fast it best to start as stock as possible and add one thing and tune. Add another thing then tune. I spent 8 hours one day just clutching my sled on one hill.

Your clutching alone will change how your sled runs drastically. I have vipec logs where all I did was change helix angle and it would change my afr reading a ton. If your patient with it though your gain a much broader appreciation for the motors and tuning. For instance when I know I am going to be putting a lot of load on sled from a certain snow condition. I can add more fuel through with my vipec to balance the extra load or I know if I am pulling to high a a/f ration and I didn't have my laptop to change a/f ratio I can change the helix to a smaller number and take some of the load off the motor. But then you gain some extra rpms on the top end and need to watch that. The tuning aspect can be a lot of fun if you stay patient with it and try not to jump the gun.

I would suggest starting over and listing every little think you can think of you have done to your sled. Motor mods, suspension mods, track, skis and then your riding style (chutes, trees, ditches, racing). One sled can be clutched, suspesion setup, a hundred different ways. But what works for me might not be what works for you. I have no desire to have the fastest sled on the hill. I want instant and crisp throttle response and a hard pulling in the bottom and mid range. That's where I do 99% of my riding, so that's how I have my sled clutched and setup for. People get on my sled all the time and say wow that is zippy but doesn't seem to go very fast. And I just smile and say I know ;).

Basically in a nut shell, it's more likely than not, more than one thing effecting how the sled is running. Especially from the things you have modified on your sled.

Best of luck there are some good guys on here with a lot of knowledge like will more than likely help you out. Just stay patient.

I believe tricity' website is Tricityperformance.net or you can google it.
 
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