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TM1000 Burndown with pics

Check the wiring and injector on that side. Mine did that the first day we took it out when the sled was brand new. Bad injector wire from the factory for 09. Think there may have been a TSB. Shain fixed it and it has been bulletproof ever since
 
Do what everyone said and also check for any leaks on top of the cylinders from the head and make sure you didnt warp the head. What was your coolant level when you pulled the top end?
BB
 
Ya you would think that the box could be checked and repaired... Would hope that PL would take care of that under warranty...

You can do a continuity test on your injectors... Put a Ohm meter between your injector terminals and measure resistance... Should see between 2.4 and 3.3 Ohms...

If you don't have a service manual check out sales@midwestmanuals.com It was about 12 bucks and is great to have.... Or PM me your email and I will try to send it to ya if you want, Good luck!
 
Ya you would think that the box could be checked and repaired... Would hope that PL would take care of that under warranty...

You can do a continuity test on your injectors... Put a Ohm meter between your injector terminals and measure resistance... Should see between 2.4 and 3.3 Ohms...

If you don't have a service manual check out sales@midwestmanuals.com It was about 12 bucks and is great to have.... Or PM me your email and I will try to send it to ya if you want, Good luck!

Ya, I just ordered one last week and it came in yesterday, so I'll b checking that as well.
 
that piston sure looks like it should of made the jug very suspect???

good luck to ya:beer;

Well, after about an hour and half of cleaning up aluminum, A nice big chunk flaked off and I thought, great, now we're getting somewhere. Unfortuneately, there was a chunk of nikasil about 1/8" in diameter missing, so much for saving the cylinder.:(:(
 
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Looks a little like a 4 corner sieze. looks like a lean condition with a lack of either oil or coolant pumping through the system.

Make sure that you check the turbines on the exhaust side of the turbo. There could be significant damage from all of the aluminum.

It certainly sucks. Last year I burned my TM7 down 5 times. I hate to see these kinds of issues happen. Hopefully Pure Logic/OVS can help you get the problem solved.
 
Sending the box in for repair, they were wiesco pistons, fon't know if they made a difference, but I'm replacing with stock pistons.

Sending the cylinder in to be re-nicked, looks like she'll be down for a couple of weeks.
 
Wiseco+turbo=Boom

In my opinion, options other than stock (except stock replicas) that change compression, burn time, or affect timing, I.E. Wiseco's, will change the parameters of how your system runs. Not to mention that I am almost positive your fuel mapping was conceived using stock pistons as well.
BB
 
From experience I would definitely pull the motor and split the cases and clean the debris out properly or you'll be changing crank bearings in about 500 miles or less.....
 
FYI, I did check the turbo and believe it or not there isn't even a spec of aluminum on the turbines.......how about that!:D
 
wow!

Get some egts. every sled I've ruined a motor in I could feel/hear it when it happened and never looked that bad. If you couldn't tell something was up either you weren't wanting to or something failed. I would say lean most extreme deto (I've seen) burns more toward the center of the piston rather than down.
At 11# are you running a intercooler, Might want to if not.
 
wow!

Get some egts. every sled I've ruined a motor in I could feel/hear it when it happened and never looked that bad. If you couldn't tell something was up either you weren't wanting to or something failed. I would say lean most extreme deto (I've seen) burns more toward the center of the piston rather than down.
At 11# are you running a intercooler, Might want to if not.

Don;t know what happened. It was running fine, into the pull the last 2 seconds it lost power and stopped, that's it. There were no warning signs, sorry.
 
I don't know what the story is. I'm just check things over to find out why my sled burned down, and the resistance measures 11.1-11.6 in both primary and secondry injectors. I hope I'm doning something wrong, but I don't know what it would be. Resistance is suppose to be between 2.4-3.3 ohms.

Does this mean my injectors are bad? But all of them? Doesn't make sense to me, somebody please help.
 
I don't know what the story is. I'm just check things over to find out why my sled burned down, and the resistance measures 11.1-11.6 in both primary and secondry injectors. I hope I'm doning something wrong, but I don't know what it would be. Resistance is suppose to be between 2.4-3.3 ohms.

Does this mean my injectors are bad? But all of them? Doesn't make sense to me, somebody please help.

These resistances are ok, the M1000 and new 2010 M8's use high impedance injectors - look carefully for any bad connections. I'm pretty sure you shouldn't be seeing a blue led at idle (means it's sensing boost?), so definitely have the box checked or replaced, and carefully check the boost sensing line for kinks, etc. The M1000's are pretty unforgiving, and 110 octane may not be enough at 11psi (better be good race gas) - with 110 I'd keep it down to 10psi, maybe less at lower elevations - what is your elevation?
 
I have to disagree based on my experience. My TM1000 has been plenty forgiving and I have run 112 up to 15lbs at 8-10k ft without troubles
 
I have to disagree based on my experience. My TM1000 has been plenty forgiving and I have run 112 up to 15lbs at 8-10k ft without troubles

I'd agree with you, however, based on my limited experience with the TM1000, I wouldn't go any higher that 12# with the 110, and if I were going any higher, I would run 114 for 15#. BUT, I seem to have some bad luck.
 
Ya, pretty nasty ehh?

I thought about fuel again, but the other TM1000 I rode with last week was running the same stuff. Barrel was sealed, and i was the first to open it. I've thought about going back to sunoco, and maybe even up to 112 or 114?
But at 11# I should be good, or one would think.

I did turn the boost down a tad as well, and I turned up my yellow/blue to 4, up from the 1/2 where you had it.

I really think I need to change the box, like Garr said, if it's flashing blue at idle, something not right with it.

I don't know what else to say????? I jsut want to get this thing up and running so I can do sum riddin!!!!:D


Wondering what brand of fuel you were running? not that purple 110 crap from western ?? We have had no luck at all with it, very very inconsistant gravities. Some drums tested no better than 92 pump :eek:Stick to sunoco or VP
 
M's like to run very hot in the mid-range. It is quite possible this is where your lean condition started. Pyros are an essential tool on a MOD.
 
These resistances are ok, the M1000 and new 2010 M8's use high impedance injectors - look carefully for any bad connections. I'm pretty sure you shouldn't be seeing a blue led at idle (means it's sensing boost?), so definitely have the box checked or replaced, and carefully check the boost sensing line for kinks, etc. The M1000's are pretty unforgiving, and 110 octane may not be enough at 11psi (better be good race gas) - with 110 I'd keep it down to 10psi, maybe less at lower elevations - what is your elevation?

i can tell you as of today we ran our tm1000 motor 9 hours on the engine dyno with our standalone ecu and with timming adjustment, you can run 9 lbs of boost at see level with 91 octan fuel with absolutely no fear what so ever.but once again, timming must be adjusted accordingly. the turbo kit we are using is a cpc kit(wich is by the way amazing fit !!)
 
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