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TM1000 Burndown with pics

snowmanx

Well-known member
Premium Member
Well, here it is, I'm sure some will say deto? But I don't think so. I think it is a result of a bad control box. My A/f ratio was good when I check it, I was running 11# of boost with 110 race gas.

Box was flashing blue at idle intermittently, I guess this is the result of a bad boost sensor? And the piston is a result of running a sled with a bad controller!:confused:

It was running good up until that point. I guess my own supidity, should have just ordered a new box.

I think the cylinder is still good, I still have some aluminum to get off of it. Some streaking of the cylinder but no grooves as of yet.

Here are some pics,

Top of Piston
026.jpg


Front of piston
024.jpg


Front of piston2
025.jpg


Back of piston
004.jpg


Both pistons
008-1.jpg


Top plug PTO
011.jpg


Bottom plug PTO
012-1.jpg


Top plug MAG
013-1.jpg


Bottom plug MAG
IMG
 
holy crap did you pull my motor apart? looks identical to mine! goin to take it down as far as you tomorow just looked through the y pipe... what were your stats? i was at about 7lbs 91 octain with some lucas booster in it(wont make that mistake agin)
 
I was running 11# with 110 race gas, I'm not sure what my a/f was reading, I was at the top of a steep, deep pull, I'm glad it was deep, as it didnt roll down hill.

What pistons are you running?
 
A lot of aluminum melted there, what's the best way to flush out the cases? You can see all the flakes of aluminum in the pics.

Thanks again folks at snowest!
 
Well, here it is, I'm sure some will say deto? (YES) But I don't think so. I think it is a result of a bad control box. (Det is det no matter from whence it comes)My A/f ratio was good when I check it, I was running 11# of boost with 110 race gas. (Your a/f only shows your combination ratio and even with good a/f once you have damaged a piston by det it only gets worse.)

Box was flashing blue at idle intermittently, I guess this is the result of a bad boost sensor? (possibly)And the piston is a result of running a sled with a bad controller! (unlikely even though we like to blame it on components)

It was running good up until that point. (I'm quessing just a few miles)?

I do say DET! Classic det!
Notice how the PTO piston in in fine shape.
Did you inspect the mag piston where most of the damage is through the exhaust valve port when you had trouble last week?
I'm going to guess, no. I am still sure you did the initial damage last week and stuck the rings causing your coughing and dying. aluminum particles could have even damaged your sensor.
You are lucky a ring didn't break off and trash your turbine. I've had det on many a piston but I never was able to run it as long as you have without eating a ring. I would still take a look at it because the molten aluminum will solidify in the pipe and hit the turbine as a solid chunk and at 80,000+ rpm it does do damage.
You may have a bad injector on the mag side Tbody but from my experience you just got the mag side to detonate for a split second and it just kept getting more and more erosion and the hot ring will cause more and more detonation.
I realize you are still having a boost inditator on your box at idle and it would be worth it to replace it if you can't get it to stay off.
I am sorry for your loss but would you not have a turbo? It is worth the price!
Once you figure out just what took place and when it will give you satifaction.
 
No need to split the case, you have been running aluminum flakes through your engine for some time now. Just remove and clean the reeds and use air followed by brake cleaner then throw a towel over the engine and use more air until there are no more flakes. Use an oem piston unless you change both.
 
I replaced the exhaust temp sensor and then it was fine, no more sputtering, ran as it usually did. I did inspect the MAG piston and I really didn't see any evidence at all of any damage, so I don't know.

How can I tell if I have a bad injector?

I have to replace the box, as even if the light comes on occasionally, from what Garr has said, then it isn't properly detecting boost, and I run the risk of another episode don't I? It was on and off intermittently today, I would guess that when it went down it was probably malfunctioning?

As suggested, I know I should pull the engine and split the cases, how much work is involved in this. I have done many top end replacements, so I am comfortable with that, but I have only split cases like twice, so I'm apprehensive about doing it. So split the cases and rinse crank bearings and case out with what? Diesel fuel? Should I replace with all new gaskets?

And yes, you're right, not sure if I could go back to non turbo, but I don't want to be wrenching all the time either, I know a few guys that have M1000 turbos and they have truely been a pull and go sled, just bad luck I guess.

I appreciate your input, and any further is appreciated. I guess I have to ask why is it detonating? I don't want to send a bunch of money gettin this thing back together only to continue to have issues, So I do want to do it right.

Kind of sucks as this point. Maybe I should have stuck with my 900 carbed turbo.:confused:

Hope I get it up and going reliably, winter is too short for this, starting to get a little discouraged. Again, thanks for everyone's input.
 
holy shhhheeeeyat al. thats nasty. hate to say it but that looks like deto BIGTIME. are u sure u have good fuel? i know you said it was a new drum but could it be old? that really looks like deto and i'm pretty sure the box doesnt control any timing so i dont think that could have done it? maybe though, the top of the piston doesnt look like its EXTREMELY lean like one would assume on a boost/ lack of fuel situation. i'll let an expert chime in on that though.

posting on my phone, wanted to check in and see if u found out anything.
 
No need to split the case, you have been running aluminum flakes through your engine for some time now. Just remove and clean the reeds and use air followed by brake cleaner then throw a towel over the engine and use more air until there are no more flakes. Use an oem piston unless you change both.


Take the air box off again!!!! LOL What a pain! Actually it's not that bad.

It actually has some aftermarket pistons in it now, but I'm going to replace both with OEM, people seem to have good luck with them.

About the cylinder, I'm still working at getting the aluminum off. I think they still look good, some streaking, but no grooves that can be felt......need to get the rest of the aluminum off to make sure. I'll rehone them, but with a few streaks that should be okay?

Again, can't thank ya enough for your's and everyones input!:beer;
 
holy shhhheeeeyat al. thats nasty. hate to say it but that looks like deto BIGTIME. are u sure u have good fuel? i know you said it was a new drum but could it be old? that really looks like deto and i'm pretty sure the box doesnt control any timing so i dont think that could have done it? maybe though, the top of the piston doesnt look like its EXTREMELY lean like one would assume on a boost/ lack of fuel situation. i'll let an expert chime in on that though.

posting on my phone, wanted to check in and see if u found out anything.

Ya, pretty nasty ehh?

I thought about fuel again, but the other TM1000 I rode with last week was running the same stuff. Barrel was sealed, and i was the first to open it. I've thought about going back to sunoco, and maybe even up to 112 or 114?
But at 11# I should be good, or one would think.

I did turn the boost down a tad as well, and I turned up my yellow/blue to 4, up from the 1/2 where you had it.

I really think I need to change the box, like Garr said, if it's flashing blue at idle, something not right with it.

I don't know what else to say????? I jsut want to get this thing up and running so I can do sum riddin!!!!:D
 
Just a question, but if deto why just one side and the other side looks good?

I know bad fuel can cause deto, but can lack of fuel?
 
IMO,

Not deto.. but just flat out lean.... I would also agree.. that you have an injector issue or at least did for a short period.

You just melted the piston...

Kelsey
 
looks like a hot spot to me (thermal degradation...aka lean)....a A/F sensor just reads a ratio between fuel and air..although its very trusted as a fine tune knob over EGTs...an EGT would of seen that problem quick. I got some EGTs in a box but dont run em yet....its hard to fix something that is running great for me thus far:o

fuel boxes just send a scaled signal to each injector with no feedback of what is truly going on. glad you saved the jug, but that piston sure looks like it should of made the jug very suspect???

good luck to ya:beer;
 
IMO,

Not deto.. but just flat out lean.... I would also agree.. that you have an injector issue or at least did for a short period.

You just melted the piston...

Kelsey

Thank you, I'm not convinced of deto either, just burned her down.

So how can I test the injectors, OR, a plain burn down would be more consistent with a bad fuel control box, which is what I have/had, IMO.
 
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Definitely not an pro, but had a similar, but not so over the top meltdown. Looks like lean to me. What was the a/f ratio? Anything over 12 in my books is suspect??
 
Well, I think I'm going with lean and I'll get er back together and try it again! LOL

Hatchers, not finished with the jug yet, still some aluminum to take off before I make a final determination whether it is good or not.
 
Try to send the box back to Garr, I'm guessing it is an PL box,have them check it out for you, then you know if there is an issue there,before it happens again.May take an extra day or two,but could save some $ in the end.Good Luck.
 
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