I just busted my fourth or fifth one now across my entire pro ownership. This is the first one I have busted on my 2014. So I have been looking at the RSI block without the kill switch since the last couple years of the pros have the KS separate. It says compatible with the TSS. But I have read of some folks having issues with this block and the TSS. Anyone successfully running this? Or any advice or experience running this block with the TSS bypassed?
Tired of the plastic throttle block...
- Thread starter toofpaste
- Start date
I use the powermadd aluminum racing throttle block on my 2013. I pulled out the TSS. The switch is zip tied and taped closed. It is under the hood in the electrical connection "bag". I have not had any issues with it at all. The throttle lever from the PRO is not a direct fit. I drilled out the holes for the bolts. The powermadd is designed for use with the arctic cat "f" model lever. Some are putting in resistors to take out the switch entirely.
just noticed mine was broke on my 2012 and i like the looks of the FTX billet for only $70 bucks . It says to call about the pro kill switch,Why?
I had the RSI one that isn't compatable with the TSS on my '11. As others have said, zip tied and taped the switch, tucked it into the over structure tube and used a teather. I've heard good reports on the TSS compatable one though.
I run the IQR extruded aluminum two piece block. With the TSS bypassed. Kill switch of your choice.
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xc6rider
Well-known member
I don't get why their is such low amounts of feedback from doing this....
Taping or zip-tying your TSS and throwing it into the electrical bag is the same as wiring in a resistor in place of the TSS.... No difference at all, and has anyone seen ANY NEGATIVE side effects of the taping/zip-tying?????
Has ANYONE........ANYONE, had problems from doing this?
I think this is a brain proof mod that anyone should do, but were still seeing no feedback on it....
Taping or zip-tying your TSS and throwing it into the electrical bag is the same as wiring in a resistor in place of the TSS.... No difference at all, and has anyone seen ANY NEGATIVE side effects of the taping/zip-tying?????
Has ANYONE........ANYONE, had problems from doing this?
I think this is a brain proof mod that anyone should do, but were still seeing no feedback on it....
I think that stems from those of us that have done it, but do not want to "OWN" the liability of condoning the bypassing of a safety device. If you chose to run the TSS bypassed regardless of the method of doing it, You should be connected to the sled by your tether at all times while it is running. So if the throttle were to stick it will kill the sled, which is the entire premise of the TSS in the first place. If you chose to deviate from that, it is on you if any consequences arise from your modifications.
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550iq
Well-known member
I would say that if you disable the TSS system and if for any reason the throttle bodies of your 800 Pro stick wide open while boondocking in trees, you and your sled are going to be splato before the thought to pull the tether cord even crosses your mind. With a hard accelerating, out of control sled, you gonna let go of the handlebars, if you can, to pull the tether? Gonna jump off? How much time/distance will flash by before you can react?
Hey, just providing feedback. I've disabled TSS systems myself; but boy howdy, it took only once with froze wide-open Indy 400 throttles to see this is a situation you do not want, ever.
Just food for thought. I know, I ride. Happy and safe 014. 550iq
Hey, just providing feedback. I've disabled TSS systems myself; but boy howdy, it took only once with froze wide-open Indy 400 throttles to see this is a situation you do not want, ever.
Just food for thought. I know, I ride. Happy and safe 014. 550iq
I use the RSI billet throttle block that has a slot for the safety switch. It has an integrated kill switch that you have to hold down to kill the sled and the front portion of the block is heated, so no icing up. I also like how their block mounts with 2 screws so you can actually tighten it down so it doesn't rotate. This is one of the first modifications I make on my sleds.
http://www.rsiracing.com/THROTTLE-BLOCKS_c_32.html
http://www.rsiracing.com/THROTTLE-BLOCKS_c_32.html
The plastic throttle blocks are a joke....I broke my throttle block a few week ago after a small hit, and my throttle stuck wide open(lever wouldn't return). It cut my weekend short because it was catching through the whole movement of the throttle lever.
I guess it's a fairly common because a few local dealers sell a lot of the top pieces of the throttle block.
I guess it's a fairly common because a few local dealers sell a lot of the top pieces of the throttle block.
I use the RSI billet throttle block that has a slot for the safety switch. It has an integrated kill switch that you have to hold down to kill the sled and the front portion of the block is heated, so no icing up. I also like how their block mounts with 2 screws so you can actually tighten it down so it doesn't rotate. This is one of the first modifications I make on my sleds.
http://www.rsiracing.com/THROTTLE-BLOCKS_c_32.html
No issues at all with the TSS then? That's good to hear. Did you do the install yourself? It looks straight forward, but will I have to have the TPMS set up at the dealer?
I also have bypassed the TSS switch by taping and zip tieing it with no issues. I also am running the IQR throttle block. I prefer this one because it uses the stock pro throttle lever and I can retain the heated lever and don't have to modify the throttle block. It is also very stout.
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champyfz450
Well-known member
Same here. I've zip tied the TSS and installed the cr racing block with pro lever and a pingel tether. This is on a 2013.
Same here. I've zip tied the TSS and installed the cr racing block with pro lever and a pingel tether. This is on a 2013.
So I'm checking out the Pingel Kill Switches, does the Pro use the 'Open' or 'Closed' switch?
I'd measure if I could, but my sleds not here, do you need the 7/8" or 1" clamp?
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champyfz450
Well-known member
If u have stock bars u need a 7/8" clamp
This setup DOES USE the TSS. There is a slot for it to slide in behind the kill switch. Yes I installed it myself. It comes with pretty good detailed instructions.
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03RMK
New member
I just installed the RSI block on my '13 after breaking the stock one in the first 100 miles. It is a solid piece and actually locks in place rather than rotating around all day. I purchased the block that uses the stock kill switch, both the kill switch and TSS slide right in and function perfectly. Only adjustment needed was to shorten up the throttle cable just a bit which took about 30 seconds.
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1200psi
Well-known member
As another option we build a billet throttle block uses a cat lever and we also have a TSS switch delete plug that you eliminate the tss switch completely.
Our block will also pull other sleds, we have sold them for cats, and will pull up to a 54 mm pull. Also will except your stock kill switch like pictured.
Block and lever is 85.00
TSS delete is 20.00
Our block will also pull other sleds, we have sold them for cats, and will pull up to a 54 mm pull. Also will except your stock kill switch like pictured.
Block and lever is 85.00
TSS delete is 20.00
tss
If you replace your stock throttle with aftermarket suggest one that retains tss. Stuck throttle has happen to me not fun almost totaled sled in back yard can not imagine what fun it would on the side of a tree covered slope. I think a tether would be a first then a aftermarket throttle block (with tss) next.
If you replace your stock throttle with aftermarket suggest one that retains tss. Stuck throttle has happen to me not fun almost totaled sled in back yard can not imagine what fun it would on the side of a tree covered slope. I think a tether would be a first then a aftermarket throttle block (with tss) next.
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