Timbersled Belt Drive

[Sheetmetalfab]

The reference to the aro is only regarding the stronger straiter chassis being a suitable platform for an add on belt drive. (The point of the thread)

The aro is chain drive primary and secondary.

 

[Snowman269]

Honestly, if you want a belt drive you pretty much need to buy a kit that was designed with one. There's no point putting anymore money into older kits, the benefits would be minimal and the money better spent on fuel. In a year or two you wont be able to give away a pre 16 TS or any other kit for that matter.

M5

Kinda like the 2moto, guys couldn't give them away.

I really wanted to buy one back in 2003, but I just wasn't convinced they had succeeded in making a viable kit. Them and the Snohawk didn't impress me enough to buy.

I've had a few Timbersled Mountain Tamer skids and A arm kits in my Mountain sleds over the years, so once I saw a Mountainhorse in 2011' I knew Allens quality and service was good. He might pull it off.

I waited until 2014 to jump into a new 15 and I plan on keeping my 15' LT, I'm plenty happy with that skid to just keep cruising powder and boondocking it.

I'd like to sell my 15' ST and upgrade it to a LT, I just haven't decided between the ARO LT, Mototrax or Yeti. (Where's Arctic Cat's snowbike, BTW) There's just too much change happening in the sport for me to make a decision right now, and I'd have to test ride them.

 

[Hawkster]

Why is the tensioner pushing outwards instead of inwards like just about every belt application there is. Inward keeps more belt on the pulleys. Just wandering ?

I think part of the answer is that the belt was not designed to have a tensioner against the outside . The other is that it would seem like there would be less rolling resistance if the tensioner can be mounted on the inside .
I don't think it has anything to do with keeping the belt on the pulley it probably has to do with confined areas . So to get the most out of the advantages that a belt drive offers wouldn't you want the pulley on the inside ? Less forces applied from another angle .

 

[turbo800]

Kinda like the 2moto, guys couldn't give them away.

I really wanted to buy one back in 2003, but I just wasn't convinced they had succeeded in making a viable kit. Them and the Snohawk didn't impress me enough to buy.

I've had a few Timbersled Mountain Tamer skids and A arm kits in my Mountain sleds over the years, so once I saw a Mountainhorse in 2011' I knew Allens quality and service was good. He might pull it off.

I waited until 2014 to jump into a new 15 and I plan on keeping my 15' LT, I'm plenty happy with that skid to just keep cruising powder and boondocking it.

I'd like to sell my 15' ST and upgrade it to a LT, I just haven't decided between the ARO LT, Mototrax or Yeti. (Where's Arctic Cat's snowbike, BTW) There's just too much change happening in the sport for me to make a decision right now, and I'd have to test ride them.

Have you looked at the Snowtech MX kit?

 

[Snowman269]

Have you looked at the Snowtech MX kit?

I haven't, but I will now, Thanks.

 

[RMK935VA]

I have a Yeti 129. The belt drive works very well on it. I rode it last season and never had to adjust it. It stayed in tolerance all season. I received a spare belt with the kit that I carry in my pack in case. As stated, the belt has very low rolling resistance. You can push a Yeti around on the garage floor and the track rolls easily. I don't think that you can do that with a TS (old or new). Belts are better than chains in any situation that I can see. I liked the belt final drive on the Axys sled. It is part of the reason I bought a Yeti with weight, build quality, ski and a few other reasons thrown in for good measure. I like the track too. Good kit! Not the cheapest and the brake isn't very good (wears pads out very fast). I don't use the brake much but I went through a set of pads in one surgery shortened season. I understand that the brake situation is better with the 18s. That is good but doesn't help those of us with older kits much.