I have a 06 Summit 800. What is the trick to tightening the exhaust bolts on the Y Pipe? It is difficult to get an allen wrench in there. I have the big pipe taken off.
Tightening Exhaust Bolts on Y pipe
- Thread starter troweller
- Start date
E
enis750
Well-known member
as skibreeze said, there is no trick
well i have one, you CAN NOT properly tighten the two bottom inside ones w the heat shield on
i have mine off all the time, to check these
buy Nordlock washers dude..i have some on my y pipe and checked them after about 1000 kms, and they havent budged
i used to take my pipe off to check them every other ride..now i dont have to
well i have one, you CAN NOT properly tighten the two bottom inside ones w the heat shield on
i have mine off all the time, to check these
buy Nordlock washers dude..i have some on my y pipe and checked them after about 1000 kms, and they havent budged
i used to take my pipe off to check them every other ride..now i dont have to
i took a old allen key , the right size of course and cut off most of the short end (customized) just for this job.. it's slow ,but it works,....
what is a Nordlock washer?
Is that just a lockwasher?
Is that just a lockwasher?
Search Nord-Lock 
My Y-Pipe bolts haven't loosened in 1500 miles.
My Y-Pipe bolts haven't loosened in 1500 miles.Where doo you get the Nordlock washers
Y Pipe bolts
Buy new bolts, lock washers (they don't have to be Nordlock).
Buy a 5mm ball-end allen key. Cut the short end off just before the 90 degree bend.
Insert the long end in a 5mm 1/4 drive socket (ball end out of course). Use an extension or universal if needed and you will be done in 10 minutes.
Remove the heat shield off the y-pipe for a less stressful time.
Buy new bolts, lock washers (they don't have to be Nordlock).
Buy a 5mm ball-end allen key. Cut the short end off just before the 90 degree bend.
Insert the long end in a 5mm 1/4 drive socket (ball end out of course). Use an extension or universal if needed and you will be done in 10 minutes.
Remove the heat shield off the y-pipe for a less stressful time.
If you take the rave valves out you will have an even easier time. when reassembling, spray the bolts and the threaded holes with brake cleaner, to degrease. Use blue threadlocker, and new lock washers, or nordlocks. after the first run, re-torque the bolts again. oh, and take that hood off.
I took my raves off for a cleaning and I must have missed how that would help with the exhaust manifold bolt install. It took me hours to get the larger spring back on the rave diaphragm and plastic cap (piston). That is something I would like some feed back on.
I have some if you need them. They work GREAT!
YOu just pull the caps off and remove the 2 bolts, then slide the rave valves out. I had fun putting those springs back on also. Those springs can stay on.
The access to the top bolts are easier with the raves off., plus you can also clean the valves.
I
INKEDRIDER
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snapon makes the perfect tool it is a 6 in ball allen with 3/8 socket works perfect!!!
D
drop the hammer
Member
i have two tools for this. one is a small 5 mm allen key that i cut down so it is really really small, like about 2 inches long by 1/2 inch. (kept in my backpack w some spare bolts and nordlocks) for emergency use on hill (saved many days of riding between everyone with this issue on this hills), got many free drinks because of this in my pack.
Other one in the tool box is a long reach 5 mm ball ended allen key that i chopped the short end off and hot glued into an old 3/8 drive 5 mm socket (probably 6 or 7 inches overall length) - retained the ball end, it really helps off angle, then added a 3/8 drive knuckle joint to that and another long 3/8 extension to my ratchet (which I can reach into y-pipe bolts from hood opening), i can put them bolts in faster than it takes to pull the pipe out with that tool. I also keep a nylon string in my pack to help remove pipe springs.
I have used them on Rev's and XP's and this tool is a must have for these. No blood everywhere, no swearing, just smiles.
Other one in the tool box is a long reach 5 mm ball ended allen key that i chopped the short end off and hot glued into an old 3/8 drive 5 mm socket (probably 6 or 7 inches overall length) - retained the ball end, it really helps off angle, then added a 3/8 drive knuckle joint to that and another long 3/8 extension to my ratchet (which I can reach into y-pipe bolts from hood opening), i can put them bolts in faster than it takes to pull the pipe out with that tool. I also keep a nylon string in my pack to help remove pipe springs.
I have used them on Rev's and XP's and this tool is a must have for these. No blood everywhere, no swearing, just smiles.
I took a grinder and cut my alen wrench really short on the small end. Worked so well shes in my tool kit.
M
meierjn
Member
i took a old allen key , the right size of course and cut off most of the short end (customized) just for this job.. it's slow ,but it works,....
I did this as well. I've also used the "T" allen wrenches with the ball/hex ends.
Fastenall has the 6mm nordlocks or on ebay sellin them also as a set for rev.
i use ball ended hex sockets with extensions and u-joints on and its what works for me
C
crashleroux
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I load my sled up, haul it to "Cananada" hand the bastards in Valcourt a set of nordlocks and tell them to install the bastards....
I bought the socket ball enders also and that seems to be the easiest way, still a pain in the azz but a little easier.
I bought the socket ball enders also and that seems to be the easiest way, still a pain in the azz but a little easier.
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