Thinking of a pipe and Fuel Box

[Mnt bound]

I'm thinking of putting a BD box and a Speedwerx pipe on my 08 m1000 with a 153 track. It now has 57/63 gearing, D&D ypipe and SLP can.
What I'm most concerned about and don't understand is the risk of blowing the thing up.
For example: If a totally stock reliability is 9 out of 10
Would this setup make it a 3 out of 10? 7 out of 10?
Can you do a "conservative" fuel map? How hard is it to adjust the box? Is it idiot proof? Is it worth it?
Would you recommend it for some one that is mechanical, knows what plug color means.
I have only ever did pipe mods to carb sleds never an EFI.

Thanks for any info.

 

[cat rider]

As for what you're thinking about doing, I have found it better stick with one manufacturer instead of speedwerx pipe, d&d y, slp can, it just works better when you use one complete system that was made to work together. Adding a fuel controller is really fairly easy, on the boondocker box any number you raise just adds more fuel at each rpm range you select to change. If you're working with a complete system they (SLP, Spdwerx, D&D, etc...) usually will be able to give you base numbers to start with when tuning. Hope this helps

 

[Mnt bound]

Thanks Catrider. Yeah that makes since to go with a complete system (one manufacturer).

 

[Mnt bound]

ttt

 

[WyoBoy1000]

SW and SLP seem to be the best at elevation, but many run diff cans with the SW setup. If you are ever going to port go with the SW according to rkt it makes better power. I have a slp and it works great. I would not do it without egts. I run the koso fast prob and stock wot they read 1160 max and everytime I go out and make more then a 12sec pull I have to readjust the fuel setting to get peak performance due to elevation, some think its a pain but you can't adjust carbs by pushing a button. I burned one motor down before I had egts, bought the egts and no problems.

 

[XFIRE800]

you really have to adjust the fuel box to make a 12 second pull If thats the case it sounds like keeping the mods simple and staying away from a fuel box is definetly the way to go.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

thats to get perfection. You have to realize that if you gain 2000ft of elevation it can put you into a diff rpm range and pull full from diff numbers. I have ridden many times and left it alone but when someone give me a run I start fine tuning. you can add extra fuel to stay on the safe side and the power gain is still worth it, the 5500-6300 rpm range is also a hot spot on mine with the stock setup the egts read 1260 temps at 6100 rpm. 1300 temp is where things start to melt.

 

[smoothdawg]

I think what Wyoboy is referring to is a wide open pull on a long hill. I have squeaked an M1000 twice and it has always been on a long hard pull. You need egt's or an air fuel gauge to test with or you will squeak the motor. The other bad thing is I could be running the exact same mods as you and both of us would be using different #'s on the BD control box. This is caused by many variables, most of wich is due to fuel pressure variables between the two sleds. Just giving you some more info before you make a decision.

 

[MUZBOMB]

If you get a pipe and BD control box just remember now when you are tuning, don't start tuning until several miles in on the trail. The ECU has a closed loop and open loop mode. It starts in open until the sled warms up then goes to closed. If you make changes in the open mode, then the ecu goes closed loop it will throw everything off and you could end up WAY to lean. It usually takes my sled about 2 or 3 miles before it goes closed loop. And i second the BD Box numbers are not all the same as another guys sled that has the same set up. It is not hard to set up just take your time and when you get your numbers always run it alittle safer add alittle. Hope this helps

 

[Mnt bound]

Thanks everyone
Sounds like its pretty easy to keep from squeaking as long as I have egt's. I'm thinking of doing it and keeping conservative (too rich) until I get the hang of how the BD works. Anyone run a BD box on a stock pipe?
Thanks again

 

[WyoBoy1000]

I did but the 09 stock map is right on the money so no point in it. ran with slp can still no point, put on y-pipe changed the numbers a little and added some fuel pressure, wasnt real impressed, then added full pipe and went to tunning, huge diff in power.

 

[Mnt bound]

Thanks,
That is what I thought. No point until a pipe. It sounds like it is as risky as the rider wants it to be.
Thanks again.