Things to look for before buying a 2011 Pro?

[MikeMetzger]

Hey guys, Im looking at a few 2011 Pro's around my area. Obviously these sleds had quite a few issues with the piston skirts, cranks, etc. Is there things I can look at specifically that might let me know if I should pick one up or stay away? I assume removing the exhaust to check the pistons for scoring or wear?

Thanks in advance guys!

Mike

 

[AndrettiDog]

I would ask to remove the head and at least see the top. You can check compression to see if the two are the same. Check for tunnel damage/creases as some people managed to mangle them. I'd check both clutches, they are not cheap if you need to replace them. A new belt is a huge bonus as they are $150ish new.

I've had good luck with my 2011 Pro. The only warranty claim was a blown out chain case in the spring. Good luck.

 

[MikeMetzger]

Thanks, these are the types of things I was looking for.

 

[Oregonsledder]

I would ask to remove the head and at least see the top. You can check compression to see if the two are the same. Check for tunnel damage/creases as some people managed to mangle them. I'd check both clutches, they are not cheap if you need to replace them. A new belt is a huge bonus as they are $150ish new.

I've had good luck with my 2011 Pro. The only warranty claim was a blown out chain case in the spring. Good luck.

I seriously doubt any ol dude will say..." sure take off the head and and take a peek". A compression check will tell you most of what you need to know, but a torn down top end, followed by... hope that anti freeze mess on your floor doesn't bother ya too much as the the guys says "looks pretty good, but I don't have any money". Just messin with ya, but take the heads off??

 

[tdorval]

I know I wouldn't let someone take the heads off when I'm selling. Compression check sure, but anymore than that and its not worth it to me. If he doesn't buy it I need to replace gaskets etc, just not going to happen in most cases I bet.

 

[MikeMetzger]

Thanks, these are the types of things I was looking for.

 

[rotax]

If its had pistons / crank / cylinders done under warranty. Do a 'fix kit' of some sort.
If it hasn't had pistons / crank / cylinders done under warranty. Do a 'fix kit' of some sort.

I'd say this goes for the 12s as well. 13s may be lasting a little longer? Hard to say still..

 

[MikeMetzger]

What if its a 600? Do they still have the same issues?

 

[AndrettiDog]

I seriously doubt any ol dude will say..." sure take off the head and and take a peek". A compression check will tell you most of what you need to know, but a torn down top end, followed by... hope that anti freeze mess on your floor doesn't bother ya too much as the the guys says "looks pretty good, but I don't have any money". Just messin with ya, but take the heads off??

If the guy is serious enough I'll take the head off. I got nothing to hide. My 2011 is currently for sale.

 

[edavis0202]

Ask yourself how much money you're willing to spend after you get it and then decide.

if you don't have another $2500 to spend...buy a new one and that goes for any sled any model any year...engines go down all the time for different reasons. You're going to spend $2500 to get it going again, maybe less if its not completely trashed on the bottom.

I wouldn't ask people to take their top ends off, that's a 2hr job to take it off and put it back on. AND if the person selling it even knows how. And whos to say you will buy that one any way...

Motors are always fine until them blow up

If you wanna find a 2011 then get one dirt cheap and send it to Indy Dan for complete motor with a 3yr warranty.

 

[joshkoltes]

Comp test should be in the 105 range the more the better. Good as long as they are within +- a few. Look around the chain case for creases in the tunnel wall behind the foot well. And the same around the opposite side foot well.
If he has a jack stand run the track on it and let it coast to a stop. See if the track rubs the tunnel or drop brackets
Loom at the slide rails. In front of the rear idler the rail is webbed or windowed, the top of that web should be totally straight.
A arms should be straight
Just general stuff

 

[allied1]

Look at these problematic areas. I've had my fair share of casting failures and know of others. Left to right: lower front chain case housing, top overstructure web ahead of the steering post, and structural web support bracket behind the secondary which did get reinforced in 12.

 

[skiwiz]

My Turn !

Polaris did make an update kit for the 11 motor mounts !