Things to do while the motor is out....

[TriumphoverU]

So I pulled the motor out of my sled today to replace a fuel injector that has been giving me problems. Besides giving everything a bath while the motor is out what else should I be looking for/changing while I'm in there?

I've already inspected my front motor mounts and found one of them torn, so I am going to replace both of them while I'm in there. Where is the best/cheapest source for these mounts? I've found oem mounts for about $47 each online. Are Poo parts better than the aftermarket companies replacements? Comp fusions mounts sound good, but I think for the price I'm going to stick with the OEM style.

Thanks for any and all advice guys!

 

[Cerialsledder]

So I pulled the motor out of my sled today to replace a fuel injector that has been giving me problems. Besides giving everything a bath while the motor is out what else should I be looking for/changing while I'm in there?

I've already inspected my front motor mounts and found one of them torn, so I am going to replace both of them while I'm in there. Where is the best/cheapest source for these mounts? Are Poo parts better than the aftermarket companies replacements? Comp fusions mounts sound good, but I think for the price I'm going to stick with the OEM style.

Thanks for any and all advice guys!

While the motor is out I would change the motor mounts regardless of how they look. change the bump stops, check all the steering linkages under where the motor sits to make sure you won't have any failures. Reroute any wiring that looks like it is close to rubbing on anything. change your fuel filter, make sure the one harness that runs close to the jack shaft is zip tied back and will never come in contact with it... ummmm anything I have forgot fellas?

 

[sloan188]

check oil pump arm movement and clean/lube oil cable....

check flywheel inner ring for separation...

 

[TriumphoverU]

Thanks guys for the help so far!

I seem to remember reading, but can not find right now, about a new updated part number for the OEM torque stop. Also, I seem to remember something about a urethane washer for one of the rear motor mounts as an OEM update or something?

Anyone have any info on either of these?

Edit: OK so I did find out where I read about the torque stop, it was on SLP's 900 tuning tips. The torque stop they list is more expensive than the one Polaris lists for our sleds. Is the one they list somehow better than the original one? https://www.startinglineproducts.com/technical/900 Polaris Tuning Tips.pdf

 

[guidoxpress]

What everyone said above pretty much nailed it.

are you having your injectors flow tested and rebuilt? Witch hunter.com does awesome work

Tps harness if is not already done for sure. I see someone in here posted a link for some being custom made.

I have COMPFUSION mounts I'll sell you for what stock would cost. $100 shipped

I wouldn't worry much about te torque stop. Stock is fine cause it shouldn't wear much anyways cause it shouldn't make contact unless motor mounts go


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[TriumphoverU]

What everyone said above pretty much nailed it.

are you having your injectors flow tested and rebuilt? Witch hunter.com does awesome work

Tps harness if is not already done for sure. I see someone in here posted a link for some being custom made.

I have COMPFUSION mounts I'll sell you for what stock would cost. $100 shipped

I wouldn't worry much about te torque stop. Stock is fine cause it shouldn't wear much anyways cause it shouldn't make contact unless motor mounts go


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I hadn't given the flow/cleaning of the injectors much thought to be honest. But it does make sense since the motor is out and they are easily accessible!

I already have the TPS harness done.

I sent you a PM about the mounts

The torque stop on my sled was definitely getting used, the case is nice and shiny where it was making contact. But as you said I had a torn mount (Front Mag side).

 

[410Fortune]

clean and lube the steering linkage
while my engine was out I soaked the U joint and bottom linkages in PB blaster. In fact while the sled is in garage I soaked all heim joints with pb blaser, control arms and ski bolts also.

Replace flimsy stock spring hose clamps with good made is USA screw type hose clamps everywhere
Good time to service your recoil, I added Amsteel rope to mine and will leave the bottom two screws out so I can repair/maintenance the recoil /stator in the sled.

Good time to add heat protection to your side plastics and chain case if needed, some new heat tape is what I used.

New oil and fuel filter
New waterpump seal for sure since it is only serviced with the engine out and they can leak

lube throttle, oiler cable. If you are running stock oil cable get a new intermediate one (the metal one) or buy the FBF style cable, a big improvement.

I also took the oil pump and lines apart, cleaned and bled the system of old oil and added all new.

replaced oil line that feeds the center crank seal and re wrapped with heat tape and insulation. Wire harness and heater hose also get heat shielding and careful routing

once the engine is back in fill oil lines with new 2 stroke, fill oil tank and let it sit, monitor the level to ensure the center crank seal is not leaking.

I left he bleed screw on my oil pump cracked for 5 days while I worked on other projects. Eventually it gravity bled and now I should be that much closer to prime when I start her up TODAY!


Consider Compfusion mounts for sure!!

I also took this opportunity to re silicon the side plastics to the bulkhead, around my bumper and any other openings that might let snow in.

 

[TriumphoverU]

Well I decided on OEM mounts, I have read/seen people that are breaking the front cross member with the compfusion mounts. I figure I got 3000 miles out of the first set of mounts, hopefully the next set goes another 3000 miles.

Fuel injectors are on their way to witchunter, and I've got new fuel and oil filters on their way as well.

I'm also going to check out the flywheel for separation of the reluctor ring.

If you guys think of anything else, I should do while I'm waiting for parts and my injectors, let me know!

 

[410Fortune]

Good decisions! new thermostat?

 

[TriumphoverU]

I'm not going to mess with the thermostat right now since that is easily accessible with the engine in the sled.

Thanks for all the help!

Any thoughts on leaving out the bottom two recoil bolts since I'm using the SLP torque and push arms. The push arm bumper uses the recoil to bump against. Would this cause any issues?

 

[TriumphoverU]

Also, whats the best recoil rope, and where can I get it? Don't want to pull the recoil again if I don't have to.

Anyone ever have issues with the 2006 flywheels or was that mostly limited to the 2005's?

Thanks again!

 

[sloan188]

I'm not going to mess with the thermostat right now since that is easily accessible with the engine in the sled.

Thanks for all the help!

Any thoughts on leaving out the bottom two recoil bolts since I'm using the SLP torque and push arms. The push arm bumper uses the recoil to bump against. Would this cause any issues?

Leave them out...no issues.

 

[410Fortune]

it looks to me like the two bottom allen head bolts can be gotten too with some small mods to the chassis (grinder clearance)

I used 3/8" Amsteel blue rope. I picked up 18' of it, enough to do two sleds.
It fit right into the recoil housing perfectly. This is synthetic winch line.
You can buy 7' of it on ebay for like $20, I found 18' for $25.

I hope to be installing my recoil and the rest of the engine today so we will see!!

 

[TrailRebel]

I see someone in here posted a link for some being custom made.

Really guido? I'm just a someone to you? LOL!

 

[410Fortune]

update
only one bolt needs to be left out of the recoil housing, not two. Just the very bottom bolt.

 

[TriumphoverU]

update
only one bolt needs to be left out of the recoil housing, not two. Just the very bottom bolt.

mountainhorse said on the 2006's that there are 2 bolts that should be left out? something must have changed between the 2005 and 2006 sleds?

 

[410Fortune]

it will be obvious when you install it what bolts can go in and which cannot

 

[Scott]

check the crank runout

 

[NapaMatt]

How are your Reed Petals.. Easy to check now...

Clean Clean X2

Did I say Clean every thing!!!

 

[TriumphoverU]

How are your Reed Petals.. Easy to check now...

Clean Clean X2

Did I say Clean every thing!!!

Reeds are good, I pull those at the beginning of every year anyways to check the throttle body boots for tears. I'm in the process of cleaning everything now while i'm waiting for parts.