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that time of year again... chains, which ones 2 or 4 wheel??

skidooboy

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
thought i would post up the quandry on what are the easiest to mount, most cost effective, who has the best service, and do you buy a complete set of 4, or do you just need the rear drive wheels. wanna buy a set before we go out this season.

i use them on the tractor here at home for plowing, they work great. looking for an easy mounting automotive set for 17" aluminum wheels on an 09 gmc sierra 1500 4x4.

thanks in advance...

ski
 
I have one set of the old fashioned heavy duty Chains for my Yukon XL and I pull an enclosed three place trailer.

I use them on the rear wheels.


I have been in some tight spots but so far always made it out with just chains on the rear.
 
Got mine from Les Schwaab...the real chain type, not cables.

2 of 4 depends on the load I'm pulling and the road conditions.

IF only using 2, I put them on the front...most of your braking power is in the front, I dont want to lose steering on an icy downhill, and more pulling power from the front going uphill.

like everything else, make sure you know how to install them. I put mine on a couple of times in the garage before the start of the season, just as a reminder.
 
^ this is the way to run them.

I would recommend spending the money and get a good set with v-bars.

Nothing worse than getting into a spot and having a chain break! Been there before.
 
We roll with studded tires, some of the best peace of mind you can have when towing in winter.
 
Where's the best place to buy 'em?

Six Robblees

We carry cables and chains... I prefer the cables.. Super 'Z' s.. They go on easy, work great and have replaceable links. Chains, for those really bad days, deep snow, off trail. Seriously, doesn't happen much.

Carry cables for the trailer too.. Nothing like stopping the rig and watching the trailer skid past you jackknifed. Now you know why semi's put chains on the back trailer axle's too...:rolleyes:

Get into this discussion every year around here it seems. And there will always be the people who say "I got 4x4....screw chains". Hint: It's still only 4 pieces of rubber trying to stop your azz...same as the idiot in the Subaru. I can cable up in less than 10 minutes on a normal day...pretty fair trade off.

And I think studs suck. Rubber compounds have so improved over the years. I can't remember the statistics now, but most the time the all season 'traction' tires (which all AT's, etc are) out perform them in 90% of the situations. And in the ones they don't...iron on the tire would be the way to go. Besides, they eat the hell outta the road and we're all paying for it... Need to get Vinnie to chime in on this thread. I might have some of the facts wrong, but the general thought on them holds.


:beer;
 
Chains? what are those?

2 or 4? depends on how much trouble your in or wanting to get in...

if you need chains....they call them chains for a reason...only the real thing for me...course I can get myself in some sticky situations and NEED all the traction I can get...especially with a horse trailer back in the back country...
 
Always have at least one chain in the front for steering. Not good if you cannot go where you want. I run chains a lot in winter for work.
 
Six Robblees

We carry cables and chains... I prefer the cables.. Super 'Z' s.. They go on easy, work great and have replaceable links. Chains, for those really bad days, deep snow, off trail. Seriously, doesn't happen much.

Carry cables for the trailer too.. Nothing like stopping the rig and watching the trailer skid past you jackknifed. Now you know why semi's put chains on the back trailer axle's too...:rolleyes:

Get into this discussion every year around here it seems. And there will always be the people who say "I got 4x4....screw chains". Hint: It's still only 4 pieces of rubber trying to stop your azz...same as the idiot in the Subaru. I can cable up in less than 10 minutes on a normal day...pretty fair trade off.

And I think studs suck. Rubber compounds have so improved over the years. I can't remember the statistics now, but most the time the all season 'traction' tires (which all AT's, etc are) out perform them in 90% of the situations. And in the ones they don't...iron on the tire would be the way to go. Besides, they eat the hell outta the road and we're all paying for it... Need to get Vinnie to chime in on this thread. I might have some of the facts wrong, but the general thought on them holds.


:beer;

I gotta disagree on this, I have had all kinds of A/T tires and none work as good as a true winter tire. I put a new set of winter tires with studs last year and I will not go without studs again.

There was a documentary on TV last year and it stated winter tires stop somewhere around 60+ feet shorter than an A/T tire and the studs were that much better again.

I drive 20km up to a ski resort everyday for work and the studs really bite into the ice. We get alot of rain in the early a.m. after it snows all night, makes for great driving.
 
I gotta disagree on this, I have had all kinds of A/T tires and none work as good as a true winter tire. I put a new set of winter tires with studs last year and I will not go without studs again.

There was a documentary on TV last year and it stated winter tires stop somewhere around 60+ feet shorter than an A/T tire and the studs were that much better again.

I drive 20km up to a ski resort everyday for work and the studs really bite into the ice. We get alot of rain in the early a.m. after it snows all night, makes for great driving.


Yeah if your just talking highway driving, studs are THE way to go...but if we are talking off road, chains are a must in the winter...and if you dont have chains on the front (four wheel drive) your wasting a lot of effort...
 
Studs are the way to go in the winter.....if it gets sticky off road you can always slap the chains on too. Be prepared and you will get to your final destination safely.
 
there is no one answer .. conditions dictate

chains are a reality in the west

Studded tires are a great addition i run on all four
on my 1ton cummins dodge

you need to evaluate the rig and then type of chain
I cannot run cables on my truck read the manual
they are limited by tire type and power
if you run deep lug tires the cable chain cannot rotate with
the tire this causes them to get hot and bread they get hung up in the
lugs

true chains are the best for a 4x4 pickup with studs or snow tires
a subaru may have all weather with no lugs and can run cables
all day ( chains can be too heavy for some 4bangers eat up power)

front or back depends again ?
long icy down hill you want the back for sure
or youll be pushin your rear end around
need something up front to steer also

I carry two sets of chains and a cable set for the trailer
Ive never needed the trailer ones but their cheap insurance

buy them from a tire company Schwab lets you return them if you dont use them
Ive broke the cheap ones from wallmart first time out

no matter what chains are cheaper and less hassle than the cheapest nicest tow truck ride out there
just my thought from a montana dude that drives 85000 miles a year in a one ton pick up:beer;:beer;
 
Studs are a hot topic for many.. my thinking is, times change and so does the technology.

A quick google search brings up some simple facts:

WSDOT's site

On untreated icy roads at or near freezing (32ºF) studded tires do provide some measure of improved stopping ability, but on a statewide average these (glare ice) road conditions occur less than 1 percent of the time in Washington.

and

Under wet driving conditions the stopping ability of vehicles equipped with studded tires is actually reduced. Tire studs reduce the full contact between a tire’s rubber compound and the pavement. Research on studded tires consistently shows that vehicles equipped with studded tires require a longer stopping distance on wet or dry pavement than do vehicles equipped with standard tires.

And from another source, straight from the authority of the internet: :rolleyes:

The state of Washington commissioned a study of Studded Tires to determine how effective they were in improving traction and safety. The Studded Tire Report was published in November 2002.

Summary of the Studded Tire Report

The report is an extensive review of research on the performance and safety of Studded Winter Tires (SWTs). While it recognizes the negative impact of studs in tires on pavement, the report focuses on the performance of late-model vehicles equipped with current generation of SWTs, as well as those equipped with a newer “studless” winter tires such as the “Blizzak” design made by Bridgestone/Firestone.



REPORT CONCLUSIONS

1. Studded tires produce their best traction on snow or ice near the freezing mark
2. SWTs give better traction than studless tires only under a narrow range of conditions.
3. The conditions under which SWTs give better traction relatively rare.
4. Traction improvements can be looked at many ways, including braking, acceleration, cornering, controllability, and hill climbing. While these are all important, the single best indicator of tire performance is braking distance and stopping time.
5. SWTs reduce the difference in friction factor between optimum-slip and locked-wheel braking in comparison to non-studded tires. This may reduce the risk of drivers misjudging the necessary braking distance and may improve the braking potential for anti-lock brakes.
6. In one set of stopping distance tests in Alaska, studded, studless, and all-season tires performed nearly equally on snow.
7. In another set of tests in Alaska, studless Blizzak tires offered the best traction performance, especially for braking on both packed snow and ice in comparison to studded tires.
8. The use of two SWTs on the front of a vehicle produced stopping traction results on snow and ice that were about halfway between the result of four SWTs and four all-season tires. However, other control problems such as spinning sideways arise.
9. On bare pavement, studded tires tend to have poorer traction performance than other tires. This is especially true on concrete; for asphalt, there is little difference in stopping distance between studded and non-studded tires.
10. The traction of SWTs is affected by stud wear. As the studs wear and become shorter traction decreases until the benefit practically disappears when the stud protrusion diminishes to 0.024 in. (0.6 mm). On the other hand the tread wear (onstudded tires) shows relatively little effect if stud protrusion is maintained at 0.039 in. to 0.043 in. (1.0 to 1.1 mm).
11. In Norway a study concluded that the use of SWTs could to reduce the accident rate between 1 and 10 percent .
12. Driver behavior issues have been raised which affect the evaluation of SWTs. There is disagreement on these points:
1. drivers with SWTs care more about safety, hence they drive more safely
2. they drive faster (because of a false sense of security or confidence)
3. drivers with non-studded tires avoid driving when weather is severe
13. Pavement ruts caused by increased wear from studded tires can cause the dangerous conditions of trammeling, hydroplaning on accumulated water in the ruts, excessive road spray, and premature damage to pavement markings
14. The roughening of ice and pavement from SWTs provides a safety benefit for all vehicles regardless of weather or not they use studs by helping to prevent formation of smooth, glare ice
15. The cost of studless tires is significantly higher than SWTs -by approximately 50 percent
16. SWTs increase fuel consumption by about 1.2 percent compared with non-studded tires on bare roadways. But the other effects of unevenness, snow, and ice which can increase fuel consumption by as much as 15 percent are far more significant than this
17. Pavement dust created by studded tires and noise from studded tires are concerns in high traffic urban areas

There, now we've all learned something new. Or, maybe not, and we'll just hold onto our beliefs. I just learned that 'All-season' tires only work well when they are new and that their rubber compound changes in the cold to where they are much less effective. True winter tires won't do that.

My thinking: studs might be great a small percentage of the time, but they are far worse the majority of the time (non-snow conditions). Hmmmmm... let me think about that.

:beer;
 
the most important rule with chains, that i have been taught, is in 4wd they always go on the front first. the front has most of the breaking power for the vehicle and it is also your steering.

for our rigs in the winter, every vehicle has studs except for our sled haulin' truck. we get the tires siped every few years on them and they do great. lower the tire pressure just a few pounds and you've got great traction. only had to put chains on a 2 times, both in the same day. driving up to a parking lot they stopped plowing/grading and with a fresh few feet of snow we didn't know that. got about 3 feet into the ungraded stuff and we were stuck. threw the chains on the front and got right out.
 
chains on front

Again there is no one rule for chains
if you have a short wheel base vehicle
like a jeep wrangler and chain up the front and
try stopping coming down hill you will soon find
you are pointed back up the hill
 
Like many have said there is no one rule for chains. I have ran them on the rear, front and both, though I tend to put them on the rear. Personally don't like the cables, I guess they would be okay for a car or very light truck. When you get a set of chains, practice putting them on a few times. This will ensure that they are the right size for your tires and make it easier when you actually need them. Practice putting the chain over the tire and hooking it up. I have seen people lay the chains out and drive over them, you can't do this when you are stuck.
 
I only have one rule with chains if need put'em all on. Carry a set of studded tryggs for the front and a set of v-bars for the rear. Never been stuck yet but have pulled a lot of people out.
 
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