Tell me about older timbersled kits

[MrIQR]

I'm halfway looking for a used timbersled kit, only interested in the short track model.

I'm assuming some years are better then others but is there any to avoid?

Any input is appreciated

 

[Pedec]

2013 timbersled sx are really good from what I can tell 28 hours not one problem. Was new last fall when I bought it.

 

[MrIQR]

Sx is different then the st correct?

 

[up-high]

What's your idea of old? The first ones(2011) had bad chains, bad sprockets, and single non-greasable (I think) bearings. Updates are available if they haven't been done(doubt any still have these problems). I did the updates on my 2011 and it worked fine (with some up keep) for years. Oh yeah. And the worst ski imaginable on ice/hardpack!

 

[KTMDirtFace]

I think he was looking at a 2013 and maybe a 2014 when I talked to him today. used.

I didn't have any info to give him.

I know the '18s changed like everything ( sort of ). but I dont know the difference year to year on previous ones.

 

[CATSLEDMAN1]

riding in style

you can't go wrong on any of the years if the price is right.

frames have never really changed
side frames changed looks only
bearings same, twice as many to go bad currently
early fox shocks absolute pain to rebuild

tracks are the biggest riding improvement, so old kit new chain and bearings and new track...........add it up, might be good deal
even late model kits you need bearings anyway to ride too far from the truck and not worry.

 

[M5-]

All kits up to 2015 came stock with single row bearings and keyed shafts top and bottom. 2011 and 2012 had Fox float shocks 2013 - 2015 had Ride FX I think is what they are with springs. 11 and 12 1.75" track. The springs are good for a guy up to about 175 lbs after that a spring swap is needed. 2011 and 2012 had Iceage rails which were good 13 -15 had crap TS rails which are $hit and crack. The 13 and 14 kits are virtually identical and came with the 2.0" track as did 15.
2015 was the year with the built in gas rack and the drivers raised in the tunnel. In order to run a 2.5 inch track on a 2015 you need the notched track from TS or you need to notch whatever track you buy to clear the idler gear and some drop brackets. I'd buy a 13 or 14 before a 15, 15 is a weird year to many oversights IMO. 16s had more improvements but $hit JT chains which have to go.

I'm sure there are more changes I just don't remember. If it were me I would look for a 13 or 14, change the rails when they crack put on any 2.5 track of your choosing add Raptor triple rate springs and dual row bearings and call it good.


M5

 

[MrIQR]

For me it will be price point that drives the purchase, it will mainly before my girlfriend to ride so just want it reliable.

I was worried the early years might have issues but doesn't sound like anything to worry about. I like the sounds of ice age rails for when I ride it so I'll keep a look out for 11-13, maybe snag the 13 I found for cheap.

 

[M5-]

13s have TS rails not Iceage.

M5

 

[Lachoneus]

Ice Age Rails

I think you can buy them for most any year TS in the $450 range, a pretty good improvement over OEM/TS

 

[CATSLEDMAN1]

13 rails

the early TS kits 13 14 anyway, didnot have good suspension bumpers so rails cracked where the suspension arms hit the rails when you hit the big bumps.l


But, for cheap.......... the upside is cutting out 4 aluminum side plates and 8 1/4" bolts is a better fix than welding or new rails, then buy the rubber bumpers that came on 05-09 vintage ARCTIC cat m series sleds and install on your kit, cheap fix and better suspension feeling when you hit the big one, and no more cracked rails.

If you like fixing and working on iron, nothing on the older kits is complicated or expensive to repair even without TS parts.

 

[WaBackcountry]

http://www.timbersled.com/en-us/models

This link gives you very detailed description of year to year changes on Timbersled site

Don't worry about breaking rails on 13-14 unless you go huge. The 16 is just as likely to break if you go big.

My advice is buy a 16 if you are looking to get in fairly cheap but still want a good ride. The track alone made a HUGE difference in where you can go.

 

[kell8071]

Buy what you can afford and you can always upgrade later with what you decide would improve it the most for you. I have been rocking a 2013 kit for 4 years. Love it. I did upgrade from 2.25" ST to a 2.5" convex LT. When my rails finally started cracking after 3 years (no big air...) I just slapped in some ice age rails for $450.

Just like a dirtbike you can have a blast without owning a newest model, regardless of what the Internet says...

Kell