Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

T3 SHR 860 with Aerocharger Build

fredw said:
Fuelling idea makes sense, might increase fuel a bit on wot...I ussally run around the 12.8 to 13 on a/f on wot looking back at a few vids

Second look As for Ramps I still have in toms alum ramps. Very similar to the 414/441 and run the 1mm over size rollers... The Lower Start force on primary spring ussally dictates more belt squeeze does it not?



Run the standard shockwave helix at about 4.5 turns out, did try the reverse cut ramps but thought it was spongy, not sure if your spring is aftermarket but mine is the stock, might have to try the stock reeds double up

Is your gearing taking into effect driver size? And seven tooth drivers
Click to expand...

yes
 
After breaking connecting rod last spring and builder seeing same thing happen on another dozen boosted etecs, decided to go with aftermarket rods on theses builds

My rod snaped after a second or two of wot, so it seams that we could be exceeding the strength of the rod on spool up.. It also makes a lot of damage when a rod goes out

We are going with snow x rods on both builds but would like to try titanuim rods if I could find some, know of a few others that run them very successfully

image.jpg
 
rod

ouch!!! "knock on wood" but my boosted etecs have been mechanically bulletproof.


fredw said:
After breaking connecting rod last spring and builder seeing same thing happen on another dozen boosted etecs, decided to go with aftermarket rods on theses builds

My rod snaped after a second or two of wot, so it seams that we could be exceeding the strength of the rod on spool up.. It also makes a lot of damage when a rod goes out

We are going with snow x rods on both builds but would like to try titanuim rods if I could find some, know of a few others that run them very successfully
Click to expand...
 
If you had a better fuel management system, you would not be having problems with rods. All the impulse turbo last year ran great with no rod or piston failures.
 
Lol, this is no fueling issue, lots of guys have the same issue with rods breaking, ask around, I had no problems in three years than it happened..

My engine builder got me thinking, he has seen and heard over a dozen, and the bb turbo would only push the limit even quicker

Lot of tq put on rods on spool-up
 
Rod failures RARELY fail in a properly running system. You most likely had detonation or WAY to high of cylinder pressures.

fredw said:
After breaking connecting rod last spring and builder seeing same thing happen on another dozen boosted etecs, decided to go with aftermarket rods on theses builds

My rod snaped after a second or two of wot, so it seams that we could be exceeding the strength of the rod on spool up.. It also makes a lot of damage when a rod goes out

We are going with snow x rods on both builds but would like to try titanuim rods if I could find some, know of a few others that run them very successfully
Click to expand...
 
I thought of that as well. Happened right after turning boost to 8lbs...

No det codes or signs on the piston of det..

hope it does not happen agin with the aftermarket rods installed... Time will tell
 
I notice the rod appears to be locked to the piston. It may have happened after it broke, but maybe not.......

It's very possible the rod broke because of a piston pin issue that locked them together and didn't allow free rotation. If pins seize because of oiling or clearance issues you are apt to have problems, and if the pin is not strong enough it can bend and or distort into an oval shape which also locks the piston and rod together. Pin bores on the piston or rod can become distorted for various reasons which will make them tight on the pin.

That could be the reason the skirts are broken too. I don't have any experience with Ski-Doo engines and parts per se, but with drag race V-8's. So I don't know what parts you need to keep from breaking, but in many other engines it's pin problems that cause the rods to break.

If the rod broke because of a pin issue, replacing the rod with a stronger (presumably) one may not be enough to fix your problem, you may need to address some other issues as well.
 
I don't need to ask around about other turbo kits with rod failures lol. I know what is working. 25 Impulse turbo's xm on snow last year and not one rod failure. You should be asking why Impulse can run a lot more boost than your set up and not lose rods.
 
Pin and piston are free

not sure on the impulse setup, but on the aero and tss we have seen a few, maybe because they sell Ten times more...might also say something to impulse hp, but I bet it's just volume of kits in the field.. Time will tell

Here are a few I reported in last few weeks of running thread

http://www.snowandmud.com/ski-doo-turbo-464/con-rods-breaking-turbo-motors-95664.html


Turbopower said:
I don't need to ask around about other turbo kits with rod failures lol. I know what is working. 25 Impulse turbo's xm on snow last year and not one rod failure. You should be asking why Impulse can run a lot more boost than your set up and not lose rods.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

farmboy84
21 Turbo throttle & rpm issue
Replies
2
Views
296
farmboy84
farmboy84
christopher
REVIEW: iBackshift Ski-Doo Clutch Kit
Replies
16
Views
1K
Wiscofreeride
W
T
Is the performance of my ‘24 boost being affected by altitude because of clutching?
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
Sheetmetalfab
S
mattymac
Old school big power V2.0 "Black Cat"
2
Replies
29
Views
5K
Snow Duck
Snow Duck
madmax
First ride on 24’ boost
2 3
Replies
54
Views
12K
JH@CM
J
Premium Features
Join Now Free!



Back
Top