Suspension rebuild and affordable 08-09 skid update to 2010 skid

[Seeyacop]

I recently had a great experience dealing with a fellow Snowest member Gus Bohne. I was referred to Gus from Paul with Rooster Built as a reputable person to rebuild suspension. We sent 3 sets of XP X suspension to Gus for a rebuild and revalve. At the same time I worked with Gus for what is probably the cheapest way to mod the 08-09 skid so it works like the 2010 (assuming you have X suspension).

Gus was able to put a longer front skid shock shaft in and we moved the shock back in the rails using the brackets from Tom's and used a longer limiter strap. It works great, was half the price of the kits people are selling and 1/3 of the price of the skidoo kit. He also revalved this shock to account for the added leverage by moving it back in the rails. Contrary to what some others told me when we began thinking of this, the shock shaft does not hit internally, will not blow out from the longer rod and works excellent. It bottoms on the front arm bump stops right before it bottoms the actual shock. It was tested and measured several times to make certain it would work before even trying it and skidoo race team tech even confirmed it would work and helped with the measurements so the perfect length rod was used.

Gus had a super fast turnaround, great communication and really knows his stuff from running a skidoo sno cross team and years of working on suspension of all kinds. His prices can't be beat and I am more than impressed working with him.

For less than the kits sold out there just to do the skid, I was able to have all of my shocks rebuilt and revalved, and the skid shock lengthened. Give him a call and I know you will be as happy as my buddies and I. Gus truly deserves the credit for a job well done. I just wish everyone treated thier customers this way

Gus Bohne
Bohne Stock Performance
603-401-8897

 

[gus bohne]

Thanks for the the Kudos Ryan.
Glad you guys got the shocks in time to do some thrashing..

Now we have a nice recipe for budget minded folks that works .

Gus
BSP

 

[Maximum1]

Would this be applicable to the 154's only like the factory kit. I have a 2009 163x.

 

[winter brew]

Would this be applicable to the 154's only like the factory kit. I have a 2009 163x.

Any length.

Ryan, can you describe how the sled felt before/after?
The heavy front feel is definatly the most common complaint we hear...would you say this takes care of the issue?

 

[Kordero]

I'm interested to know the before/after effects as well.

 

[Kordero]

gus,

I have an adrenaline model xp. Can you recommend a best option for me that won't break the bank? I can't imagine anyone getting rid of the '10 or '11 shocks. Buy used x-package shocks and send them to you for service?

thanks,

KOrd

 

[Seeyacop]

Any length.

Ryan, can you describe how the sled felt before/after?
The heavy front feel is definatly the most common complaint we hear...would you say this takes care of the issue?

We had 3 sets done and 2 of them were ridden last weekend. As you know the conditions here don't warrant real mountain riding yet but the consensus was it handled better, sidehilled easier and felt like it kept the front end down while under heavy throttle The ski pressure I know for sure was decreased, I could tell this the moment I put everything back together in my garage with how I could turn my steering easier. I could tell this mod was pushing the front skid down further which is also why a longer limiter strap was needed. Prior to this mod and shock revalve/rebuilds I could stand on my sled in the garage and it would just collapse the skid and it would not rebound barely at all. Now when I jump on it it comes right back to the upright position.

It should feel very similar to the 2010 skid but I won't know how similar until I am able to ride mine and a 2010 back to back. I actually think it will be better with the valving Gus went with.

Previously, all of our shocks were virtually blown with very little pressure left in them and extremely dirty oil. From now on I will be having my suspension rebuilt every season. I only had 1000 miles of mountain riding on mine and it was shot.

 

[gus bohne]

gus,

I have an adrenaline model xp. Can you recommend a best option for me that won't break the bank? I can't imagine anyone getting rid of the '10 or '11 shocks. Buy used x-package shocks and send them to you for service?

thanks,

KOrd

Kord, as long as you have rebuildable shocks I can help.

Its all a matter of knowing your wants and dislikes so I can tune your shock spring package to work for you..
as far as cost.. the price is just stupid cheap for the SNOWEST memebers.

pm me or give me a call 603-401-8897 estern time..till 9 pm for you left coasters !!!

 

[Seeyacop]

TTT

 

[deaner]

Is there a budget fix for the 2010 suspension for those who arent impressed with it? I really dont like the rear skid in this sled but am too cheap to throw down the dough for an aftermarket. Something like the racers edge setup but not priced ridiculously. The biggest thing I would like to see is ski control when climbing. This thing is a wheely monster. You hit one little bump....your front end goes straight up, you lose all momentum, and you are done.

Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations. Gus?

 

[utah_sledder]

Not hi-jacking here but, this is only for people with "X" style rebuild-able shocks. If you have an Everest you gotta buy a new shock.

 

[highmark289]

someone on here drilled a hole 3/4" below the top mount hole and relocated the shock there. they said it made it do the same thing? in theory it would seem the same as lengthing the shock
1". idk just my .02

 

[gus bohne]

Deaner, yes a revalve to the rears ( both will make a nice nose flattening change.) The stock oil is poor , One ride should be greymush for oil,, a nice emulsion rather than a fluid..lol

Sorry non rebuildable is non revalveable.

but you can still change to a better suited set of springs for your weight and desired changes in weight transfer.

Lengthened shock rod is due to Shifting the rail mounted end of the shock rearward. this also makes a change in shock ratio as the arm no longer compresses the shock at the same rate..

Will return all pm by 10 am eastern...

Gus

 

[Seeyacop]

someone on here drilled a hole 3/4" below the top mount hole and relocated the shock there. they said it made it do the same thing? in theory it would seem the same as lengthing the shock
1". idk just my .02

Not sure what you are referring to, there is no material below top mount hole on the 2008 or 2009. Plus doing this would just collapse the shock 3/4" and not change anything.

 

[highmark289]

i dont know, just saying what i read on a thread on here. in theory it makes sense, but at the same time like you said it would compress the shock more cause of more load on it. couldnt you set the spring on the stiffed setting and keep the shock from compressing down?

im just try to find a super easy way of doing this mod. i think everyone is actually haha

 

[Seeyacop]

Drilling a new top shock mount can't be done because there is no material to drill through. The 2010 and 2011 has a different bracket welded to the arm altogether which does essentially the same thing as moving the bottom of the shock back and keeping the top mount the same as the 08 and 09. They also have a longer shock too.

I am almost certain you are referring to moving the whole front suspension arm in the front tunnel mount down or down and back. Yes some have done this on here but many have also said it is not the same feel as actually moving the shock or doing the 2010 kit from skidoo.

The valving is also different in the 2010 rear skid shocks and should be changed in the 08 and 09 if you are doing the mod. The stock valving is not up to par anyways and I had all of mine changed when they were being rebuilt. All done for a wicked deal by Gus Bohne. I was able to do all shocks for less than the price of any of the kits being sold that just address the skid.

 

[ak]

Is there a budget fix for the 2010 suspension for those who arent impressed with it? I really dont like the rear skid in this sled but am too cheap to throw down the dough for an aftermarket. Something like the racers edge setup but not priced ridiculously. The biggest thing I would like to see is ski control when climbing. This thing is a wheely monster. You hit one little bump....your front end goes straight up, you lose all momentum, and you are done.

Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations. Gus?

Rear scissor brackets help, available through winterbrew and the mickus in Canada eh. I have them On my 2011 they seem to help the sled get up on the snow better.

 

[deaner]

Rear scissor brackets help, available through winterbrew and the mickus in Canada eh. I have them On my 2011 they seem to help the sled get up on the snow better.

I have that and Im still not impressed. I havent played with my limiter strap though either cause Ive heard it makes the problem worse if you tighten them up on these sleds. Im gonna see for myself though cause Im not happy with the skid right now.

 

[winter brew]

I have that and Im still not impressed. I havent played with my limiter strap though either cause Ive heard it makes the problem worse if you tighten them up on these sleds. Im gonna see for myself though cause Im not happy with the skid right now.

Deaner, what track length are you? Our '10 154 was a wheelie king when we started out.....limiting what you could climb and having to turn out from excessive ski lift.
With the rear scissor brackets added, limiter strap in stock (3rd) hole, front skid spring very soft (that's important!), rear spring on #1 (220lb rider) and ski springs set soft (#1-2), this thing will climb a wall....very little and controllable lift and allows you to attack the steep stuff....and this with the Camo extreme hooking up a little harder than the stock track.

 

[rhino]

Brew, does that set up work on the 09's as well with the scissor relocate bracket? soft in the back and limiter in hole 3?