Summit RT 1000 questions

[jacmmaxwell]

It was my first time dealing with them, ended up pulling the cable mount bolts like you said but I did it after getting the valves off the motor, if you removed the cables first your right, I think they would slide out if you retracked them.

Next time that will be how I do it.

 

[jacmmaxwell]

Well, I got some time yesterday and found the fuel pump and it's a facet pump. I went ahead and relocated it and remounted it so it will be easier to install the new pump when I can get one. It's funny how easy it was to do with just the factory hoses and wires. I cut about 1" off the end of one hose and that was it... I mounted mine on it's side just infront of the chaincase and right below the adjuster bolt.

 

[TreewellDweller]

Could you post a pic of your relocation project. I would appreciate it. I am considering doing the same to my son's RT.
thanks

 

[jacmmaxwell]

Yeh I'll try to remember to get you some pics tonight after work if not give me a shout again.

It was real easy to do, I unbolted the two motor mount bolts on the right side of the sled, and used a pry bar and ratchet strap to hold the motor up, there was just two 10mm head bolts holding the pump down and then I used a pair of dikes to remove the clamps and then reroute the houses and wires.

 

[jacmmaxwell]

OK, here are some pics of the relocated fuel pump and how I routed the hoses. It looks pretty close but the lines clear the pull rope and the spring it runs threw. When you drill the hole to mount it becareful there is not much room.

Also you can see the battery that I'm testing, It weights around 1.5 lbs more then the stocker but should have a much longer life then just one season but we will see, I started making a new mount for it but for now it's just held in with two giant tie wraps.

Another project I'm working on is the cooler delete, I was not real happy with just adding a section of hose and reinstalling the plastic cover. So I went digging around on the web and found a guy who said you could just knock out the center divider and some others who said it would not work.... well I gave it a try and after a couple smacks on one side then switch to the other and a couple smacks and return to the other side and it was out. Really it was pretty easy to get it out, my goal was not to drive it out in one hit but to just bend it one direction then switch and bend it the other till the weld broke and it was PERFECT.

My plan was to maybe thread a plug in there but while brain storming I came across a boat plug on the shelf, the one in the picture is too large but the next size down would fit good. I'm thinking that I would remove the finger ring and just install an allen head bolt to keep it clean looking.

My goal is to fab a tapered aluminum tail light that covers the end of the cooler and covers the holes in the tunnel, I have a few designs in mind and might even use the light parts from the stock light to keep the over all tail clean looking because I want to build some new rails for the running boards that have the step built in with either doo rails or the cat rails like the guy who I got the idea from... think he is a dootalk guy.


Were I started

The plug before I started

Got it out !!

Should flow well enough

Here is the current idea

 

[TreewellDweller]

Thanks for the pictures on the fuel pump relocation. Looks pretty straight forward.

 

[sledRevy]

OK so I have been shoping for a new sled and I seem to be be finding alot of nice 1000's going for pretty cheap ( way less then the 800's ).

I know they have issues, but I've heard that the 07 mid elevation flash, pods, and a can are a good starting point. I've read they are heavy and you can drop 50-60 pounds pretty easy, but what are the best ( cheapest ) ways to lose weight?

I'm looking at one I can get for about 3000, it needs handle bars, that would leave me about 6-700 bucks so figure a can, pods, and a reflash would close to 300.00 so with 400 more can this thing be made worth riding? I've heard clutch kits and a regear are in close order can I pull this off on this budget?

Also I ride with 800's and don't want to be useing too much more fuel then them. I guess I'd have to get a jerry can so there is another 80-100.

I also noticed there is not a ton of part for these, are some of the simple things swapable between the 800's and the 1000's? Like the seats, A-arms, skid plates, windshields. I know the side panels are wider but could you convert it to use the more common side pannels?

I have also read they need a battery, but are pull start ? could this be replaced with a capaciter to float the voltage for the CPU? That would be an easy weight loss.

I'm just looking for the stuff I have not found from searching. I know it's a whole bunch of info but we got all summer

if you want a 1000 look at h2oski's 05' 1000 for sale its dialed and is priced too low but worth it

 

[diamonddave]

For plugging off your rear cooler...go to the hardware store and purchase a couple 1 inch rubber table/chair leg ends. They cost about $1.50. I've used them on Polaris' also, work 100%!!

You don't want a boat plug getting clipped by a tree or your boot and getting scalded or losing your coolant.

They work awesome for plugging off rear coolers and polaris front cooler bypasses. I kept an extra set with me but never needed them (3 seasons)

Guarantee that Facet pump will go before the end of the season, but nice job on the relocation

 

[jacmmaxwell]

I'll look into the chair caps, did you just hose clamp them on? I was planing packing a spair of what ever I end up using. That pump will not stay on there any longer then it has to, I was going hit you up on payday but I ended up finding a good deal on the skidoo fuel caddy for a price I don't want to let get away.

I'm about half way threw with installing the T-stat ( pics to come after I get it done ). I want to keep the hose routing clean with out kinks and make it all look like it is meant to be there. I also would ask those who have installed one if they have had any trouble with it getting to warm? It's pretty close to the can, I mean not much closer then the stock hoses but you are still forced to run the hoses near it. Maybe I'm over thinking it.

Has anyone just cut the recess into the spout on the head and installed a thermostat like a car? You can get marine t-stats as low as 85 degrees. I was just thinking ....

 

[diamonddave]

Just hose clamp the rubber chair leg ends on. You've already knocked out the center plug so that's all you'll need to do. Works like a charm. If you really want quality, look into the new plastic clamps. They work awesome and never leak

Make sure the weld doesn't leak from where the center plug had been welded in at the factory. I had seen a couple guys develop a coolant leak after removing/disturbing this plug. I was told JB Weld fixed them though.

You will NOT have an issue with coolant temps being too warm after the 08 800 XP T-stat install. In fact, some guys have run it without front coolers also (bypassed due to premature cracking, leaking coolant) Idahogn runs with only his tunnel cooler and runs it half covered.

If you want clean, neat, quality hoses, buy some from BRP for the 800. You're right about not wanting kinks, etc.

 

[blacksnow]

Updates?

 

[jacmmaxwell]

Well, I got the t-stat finished and I updated the fuel pump. I moved the pump from were it is in the pictures earlier in the post. I'll try to get some pics of how things turned out.

I'm waiting to get my gas caddy, other then that there is not much I will be doing till I can save the coin for DJ's clutch kit. I may look into more weight savings and porting the track but not sure what will happen.

 

[DragonSlayer1]

Cooler delete

I can see taking out the rear cooler. But what about the front cooler. I've got my motor out and was thinking about tearing it out. But then I would need to fill in the hole. I am tempted to just bypass the and coolent and just run coolent through the tunnel. Any suggestions???

 

[jacmmaxwell]

Rumor has it that just the tunnel cooler is enough. If you wanted to try running with out the bulkhead cooler and the rear cooler, I would just bypass the bulkhead cooler and instead of knocking out the welded plug out I would just loop it with hose that way you could you could reinstall one or the other if the tunnel cooler was not enough.

However in 06 they cut the tunnel cooler in half and at the same time removed the rear cooler. I would say that the area they removed from the tunnel cooler was equal to or greater then the suface of the bulkhead cooler. That is what I have found from my research, if you do some digging you will find that more then a few guys are running just the tunnel cooler.

I intend to keep mine until it leaks, if it's not a simple fix then it's getting bypassed.

 

[jacmmaxwell]

Well here are a couple pics of the t-stat. It turned out pretty good, I need to trim a couple house clamps and I would like a little more of that loom to cover the rest of the hoses for more uniform look. You can see I used a 1" tee that had a threaded out put for the tee, then I used a 3/4' 90 deg fitting. I used a hightemp ultra black silicone gasket maker for the thread dope. Should hold up OK.

Here is the new pump installed in the foot well, I moved it over there to distance it from the hot exhaust a little more.

Here is the two wheel kit I fabed up, it ended up with the stock metric bolt in on side and a 3/8" in the other but you can't tell. In the third pick you can see the washers I cut from some scrap aluminum but it's too thin so I'm cutting some from 3/8 but that's a pain with a hole saw.

And last is my windshield mod, everone does it but I like mine. I used tin snips ... aviation snips ... what ever you call them and then a flat file to clean up the edge a bit. I even checked to see what the weight savings was and it's good for a shade over 1 pound. Mostly it does not look so dorky anymore.

More to come but thing will slow down as the projects go up in cost. I plan on gutting all the foam and will continue to look for more ways to loose weight.

I was thinking about picking up a 12v RC car battery to drop some pounds, I got the idea from a link someone post about a light weight rt1000 but they give you no info on it. Plus I don't know how well it would work.

I'm still not convinced that a large enough capaciter would not work inplace of the battery.

 

[TreewellDweller]

The threaded T-fitting makes me a bit nervous. This is the part number that was suggested to me (08 T Fitting 509000372). I found out about it after I did my son's RT.
Just a thought.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

i sold him the whole setup, can t-stat and pods, i ran it almost all of last winter with no issues... there is probably somthing better, but RT coolant doestn get warm! even with a t-stat!

looks good, much cleaner install then I did!!

if you want some more weight loss and a big vent, delete headlights and mount a small foglight in the plastic shroud that the coil and fuse box mounts to... its looks badazz!!!

 

[jacmmaxwell]

Skidooinit, I think your t-stat went to someone else, I got mine from an online parts dealer. The pods and can however I got from you and are working out great so far.

I'm not so keen on the tee either, others have used the same material fitting so that part should be fine but tapered threads in plastic always bother me. I was carful not to over torque and add the ultra black to keep things from leaking. That being said, I'll be looking into the skidoo part mentioned ( thanks for the part number )