Summit RT 1000 questions

[diamonddave]

My budget is tapped right now, but I'll hit you up later if need be and see if you still got it.

What exactly is the purpose of the chevy pump? Or should I say what does it fix?

It replaces the electric low pressure pump made by Facet with one of much better quality. There have been numerous issues with the pump made by Facet. Not just low or no fuel pressure but engines have had lean burndowns with continued running of the engine during low fuel pressures.

Originally in 05, the 1000 came with a pulse pump and was recalled for the electric pump in 06. 06's and 07's cmae with the electric pump from the factory.

So, you can run a Facet pump anfd take the chance on low fuel pressure causing possible engine runnability problems and burning down your engine OR you can upgrade to the E8012S pump and never have to worry about it again.

 

[jacmmaxwell]

Hmm, I must have the pulse pump, mine starts good but when I checked the battery voltage it was at 1.5v. It took a few good pulls but not to bad.

Don't get me started on starting it, the guy said it was electric start but the battery wad dead, ok so I never even looked for a starter motor. I can only assume it's not an e-start because the hole were I would say the starter goes is empty, there is a hole at about 11 oclock if your looking at the driven clutch... am I correct? The button is labeled start/rer

Oh and another question, there is no key so does the kill switch kill the power?

 

[ondaprowler]

The kill switch does the kill the power since there is no key. Just remember to pull it back up before you start it or ya may look like a fool. Have fun with the sled, I had a blast with mine. It has awesome power and torque.

 

[jacmmaxwell]

Thank you, and I've pulled on my other sled with the kill switch off ( I bet we all have ).

I started pulling some stuff off for weight savings, Started with the swaybar, it's a mountain sled and never should have had one. That was good for 3 lbs. including the brackets and bolts.

I also cut down the windsheild, not for weight but I don't like the tall windshield look. That turned out to be good for 1 pound.

I removed that big retarded tail light, going to replace that with a mini led of some sort down the road. That was 4 lbs.

Was looking at the foam but don't want my sled to look like crap, even under the hood. How tough is it to get that stuff out clean nice and clean?

Pods will be next, that should save a couple pounds, can at the same time I hope. My wifes mail scale is only good for 5 so does anyone know what the stock can weights?

I may 2 wheel it down the road but I want to ride it first. Same with pulling the rear cooler, I want to add a temp gauge to it when I do the T-stat so I can monitor the temps.

 

[diamonddave]

Hmm, I must have the pulse pump, mine starts good but when I checked the battery voltage it was at 1.5v. It took a few good pulls but not to bad.

Don't get me started on starting it, the guy said it was electric start but the battery wad dead, ok so I never even looked for a starter motor. I can only assume it's not an e-start because the hole were I would say the starter goes is empty, there is a hole at about 11 oclock if your looking at the driven clutch... am I correct? The button is labeled start/rer

Oh and another question, there is no key so does the kill switch kill the power?

All the 05's were supposed to be recalled an one of the updates was to replace the pulse pump and install the low pressure electric fuel pump which is located under the engine. Alot of guys have relocated this pump over by the battery for ease of future replacement. This was because the Facet pumps were garbage. The E8012S pump will not have issues!!

If the sled was e-start, then there would be a starter located on the left front of the engine (sitting on sled) that would engage the ring gear on the clutch. This ring gear was also part of the 05 recall update due to a cracking issue. A few guys have had the bolts that hold the ring gear to the clutch back off a destroy alot of parts. My rec would be to remove the clutch and loctite the bolts (red) and reinstall. The update consisted of new bolts (with loctite), but some techs were too lazy to replace the bolts with the new ones.

Battery...The RT may start with a low/dead battery but will NEVER run correctly without a PERFECT battery!! If your sled is non e-start, I'd replace it at the beginning of every season. The e-start battery is larger and heavier but seems to last MUCH longer than the other. Some have replaced the non start battery with the better but heavier e-start battery. Batteries are avail at Napa for 1/2 the price of the dealer.

There is no key but should have a DESS that acts as a tether. This lanyard acts as a theft deterrent and matches the ECM in your sled. This can be an issue and it's rec'd that you buy a spare and have it programmed to the sleds computer. Nothing worse than having a no start caused by such a simple part. The lanyard connector get snow inside, corrodes (so so lightly) and doesn't make contact. I would buy an extra when you take the sled to the dealer for the Mid-alt programming. Another important thing when having the update for the programming...The battery MUST be perfect when the reflash is done by the dealer. Low battery voltage has caused MANY computers to go to SMOKE when the programming (reflash) has been uploaded to computers with low voltage. 12.5 volts is MANDATORY. And charging these batteries isn't good enough.

 

[jacmmaxwell]

Hmm, is there a way to know if my sled has had the recalls done? I surly don't have e-start after some looking, not a big deal to me in the end.

I charged my battery and only end up with 11.5 volts so a new battery is due, and after what you said I will be sure to get it done before I take it in for the flash. I wonder if storing the battery out of the sled on a tender for the summer would yeild a couple seasons out of it... just thinking.

I'm going to add the lift pump install to the list of " do before snow " for sure.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

the batteries are pretty cheap and you DONT want the troubles of one that isnt charged, its STUPID!!

the new pump is easy to do and relocate using just stock piping.

e-start is weight you dont need, but man, yankin on the 1000 will make your arms tired REAL quick.. hurray for SDI!

and as far as checking recall stuff, take vin, call local dealer and i think they can tell you what has been done to that sled by dealers recall wise. could be wrong, but i beleive thats how it goes.

 

[jacmmaxwell]

It takes some effort but even with my crappy battery, two-three pulls cold and first time warm.

I got the t-stat ordered and will be working on that soon, I have also been reading about floating the secondary for the added belt life. Sounds like a simple mod but I'm going to look and see if I can do it without the kit. From the pics it looks like I could spin one out on the lathe in a couple minutes, however I think it was ski-dooin it that did it with just a couple washers. I forsee a need to keep some lube on the splines but not to much the last thing I want is cast off on my belt.

I'm planning a call to the dealer in the morning, and if it needs recall work I might take it in tomorrow since I'm off that will keep me busy while I'm waiting for parts.

 

[jacmmaxwell]

Got some time yesterday to tinker with the sled, I took the whole air box out of the side cover and off the motor and put it on the scale and the whole thing weights about 4 pounds.

I might see if I can build a hybid or a basic pod system and the stock one but with a pair of uni filters in the box.

I did find some traces of what must be belt dust, I'm hoping the motor is OK. It's at 600 miles and is still on the factory belt, so I hope it not real bad in there.

I also got the stock can pulled out and man that thing weights a ton. I have a solution for that suite case on the way....

 

[jacmmaxwell]

OK, I installed the hps can and pods today along with a battery. I let it warm up on the stand until the rear cooler was warm to the touch and gave it a couple blips of the throttle and it ran smooth but not real snappy? OK well it was only off idle to 4-5000 rolled into so I rolled into it and ran it up wide open and only ended up with 6,800rpm at about 92mph according to the tach and my clickers are at 2 . I took it for a spin threw the yard and was not real impressed, granted it was only a throttle stab from about 4,000rpm at 5mph but this thing should kill a 16" wide chunk of grass with a full throttle pull. I was getting the same run on the stand with the stock intake but was figuring the low rpms were a result of low voltage but now I have a new battery so WTF.... could this be a fuel pump issue? Heck my 500 arctic cat would out run this thing right now.

I also currently have no idea, what updates have been done or what ecu maping is loaded.


I had both air sensors installed but just hanging in the engine bay. What have those who have done the pods done with the two sensors after gutting the air box?

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

PM sent on the issue. i think its an easy fix.

as far as the intake temp sensor, i just zip tied it to the crossmember right above the throttle boodies and it worked good for me for over 1000 miles.

 

[TreewellDweller]

1000 rt

You need to check on the updates and get the lastest reflash. Also, if the RAVE valves are out of adjustment, the performance will suffer dramaticly. The operating cable for the RAVE valves can stretch and even need to be replace periodically. I do know that my son's ran much stronger after they had been adjusted.
Just a couple of things to think about.

 

[jacmmaxwell]

How do you check and or adjust them.... I'll search for it on here later but if someone has a link that would be great.

I'm going to pull them and clean them up tonight and see if that helps.

 

[diamonddave]

First thing...Do NOT expect your sled to pull anything unless the battery is perfect. I remember reading that your battery voltage was low but sled would still start? This sled has way TOO MANY ELECTRONICS for the charging system to handle by it self (low battery) The e-rave solenoid/actuator draws way too much juice to work correctly without a perfect battery, a common reason for this sled to not pull full RPM's. Factor in 4 injectors, an ECM, and all the other electronics and it's easy to see why.

This sled is not like your older vehicles that will run correctly for the most part with a dead, jump started battery.

 

[jacmmaxwell]

I agree, and that was why when ran it a week ago I did not think anything of it. Now when I installed the can and pods yesterday I also installed a new battery, that rang in at 12.7 off the shelf. This was when I began thinking there was an issue beyond low voltage.

 

[jacmmaxwell]

OK, I watched the end of the rave shaft and sure enough it opens, about 1/4 turn and returns... it seems to be a pretty quick speed but is in relation to the rise in engine RPM.

I pulled them out and they were soaked in nasty unburned 2 cycle oil, the small round ones had a good carbon build up on them and some deposits on the large flat ones. I have them all cleaned up and ready to go back in. I needed a beer after pulling them out, heck I had to pull the pipe, and lower end of the steering stem to get at it... I hope this is not needed often.

Also going to look into what I have for a fuel pump, I have no idea what pump I have ( or were to look for it ) but should be able to find it.

 

[jacmmaxwell]

Ok, it was just dirty raves. I got it back together and ran it on the stand, got 8,100. Rode it in the yard and now it has the power I was expecting.

Never did look for the fuel pump... maybe tonight, I'm going to build a heat shield for my pods like the timbersled intake.

 

[diamonddave]

The fuel pumps' factory/stock location is directly underneath the bottom of the motor.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

Ok, it was just dirty raves. I got it back together and ran it on the stand, got 8,100. Rode it in the yard and now it has the power I was expecting.

Never did look for the fuel pump... maybe tonight, I'm going to build a heat shield for my pods like the timbersled intake.

glad to hear thats all it was, thats the beauty of all the RT guys now, you can have the issues, but everyone knows what they are and how to fix em...

and to get the stock pump out, pull the two right motor mounts out, pry up and remove, then relocate by the front bottom of the chaincase, thats what i did, worked great, and just rerouted stock hoses and it worked perfectly, just a little bit of shortening and she fit like stock.... sorta.

 

[BankBuster]

OK, I watched the end of the rave shaft and sure enough it opens, about 1/4 turn and returns... it seems to be a pretty quick speed but is in relation to the rise in engine RPM.

I pulled them out and they were soaked in nasty unburned 2 cycle oil, the small round ones had a good carbon build up on them and some deposits on the large flat ones. I have them all cleaned up and ready to go back in. I needed a beer after pulling them out, heck I had to pull the pipe, and lower end of the steering stem to get at it... I hope this is not needed often.

Also going to look into what I have for a fuel pump, I have no idea what pump I have ( or were to look for it ) but should be able to find it.

They should be easier than that to get out,,, If all is stock you shouldn't have to touch the pipe or steering post,,, trick is to pull off the cover off the RAVE assembly, then wind up the valves and pull out the main piece w/o cover. It comes out if the cover is removed first,,, also I just remove the two bolts on the cable bracket on the rave assembly (not at the servo) and with that slack, slide the cables off the wheel,, this way I don't need to mess with the cable re-adjustments every time,,, helps to have one of those mini-rachets for the rave assembly bolts, and have a spare gasket incase you tear the the one against the cylinder block. not that bad of a job job if you can leave the pipe/etc alone.