Studding the stock track on '11 Pro RMK
- Thread starter captcolby
- Start date
I dont have picks..but f-bomb on here is who started it..you take a razor knife, cut off just past all the nubs on the paddles so they come off hooked togeather, then screw like 1" long screws in at all the thick points on the paddles....you can search the threads f-bomb started on here and find the thread....
Aksnowrider,
Thanks for the reply. I'll look them up. Also, I was talking to you last summer about tunnel reinforcement for my Pro. I had to have the tunnel replaced because it was bent up front by the small brace. I like the looks of the system you have built, but I am wondering if it can go further forward, past the foot well hooks? Also can you let me know what it would cost to get some made? I'm down in Seward, but come up that way often. Also, got another friend that might want a set also.
Thanks
Thanks for the reply. I'll look them up. Also, I was talking to you last summer about tunnel reinforcement for my Pro. I had to have the tunnel replaced because it was bent up front by the small brace. I like the looks of the system you have built, but I am wondering if it can go further forward, past the foot well hooks? Also can you let me know what it would cost to get some made? I'm down in Seward, but come up that way often. Also, got another friend that might want a set also.
Thanks
The F-Bomb track mod is not putting studs in the track (that is for flat landers and racers). The track mod is cutting off the nubs at the tip of your track and installing 1" screws into the lugs firming them up. The screws are countersunk into the lugs. They are not for tracktion on ice, they are for firming up a really soft track to get more traction.
Attached is a picture of mine. I didn't cut all of the nubs off, only the areas where I installed a screw. I used black 1" #6 trim screws soaked in WD-40. Also here a thread I started that has more information, or search for the F-Bomb Track Mod to find the original thread that is loaded with information on this mod. http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280647
Well, I can make something for sure, the way the pro tunnel hooks into the bulkhead right there I would have to make /replace the complete tunnel sides or do like I did mine, then add a second overlay up frt to bridge ove the bulkhead peice..not a big deal other then the sled would pretty much have to be stripped bare from what I have seen looking at mine..price wise..what I did on mine ran about 5-600 in materials and powdercoating ...I put about 25 hrs into it for labor...I would guess you could double the labor time to overlay the bulkhead with the amount of stuff needed to be removed for access...
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skyler.hager
Member
you should just buy my assault track.... $200 shipped and its ready to stud for ice traction, plus the lugs are stiffer. 
K
Kestrel2126
Well-known member
Ok, so I'm a little confused by all this, but heres my 2 cents. First off, if you want stiffer lugs, go with the assault track. It is stiffer, and has pre-molded holes to screw carbide traction screws into. The 5.1 track is designed for powder. I could see some track mods with cutting tips off some or all of the lugs, and possibly adding a few carbide screws, if you will be riding in areas of powder one day and ice the next. However, countersinking screws into all the lugs, just for the purpose of stiffening them seems crazy to me. Camoplast does a ton of testing and research on these tracks, and the lugs on powder tracks, are designed to fold back, a predesigned amount. If you don't want the track to do this, again, buy a comp track or something similar. Putting a 1" screw into a 2 1/4" lug, that is designed to bend back, will end up breaking lugs in a hurry IMO. As far actually putting studs into the track, well, I guess it could probabably be done, the studs would have to be long as he!! to get any contact. My question would be, if you are riding in a place where studs are truly needed, why did you buy an RMK, and not a Switchback? Regardless, I still think a better solution would be to install carbide traction screws, in a Comp track.
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skyler.hager
Member
How do I find out how much it'll cost to ship? Sure I'd probably do it if shipping is reasonable. If not we can work out a price.
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AkLogan
Well-known member
The comp track and a modded 5.1 are completely different things. Even with the screws the 5.1 still flexs and If you are riding nothing but powder. Nothing but powder then a uncut 5.1 will be great but as lots have tried and tested a cut 5.1 with or with out screws will do far better is almost all conditions then A uncut or comp track.
he tore up his tunnel last spring right at the bulkhead..and wants me to figure out some reinforcments for it...Huh?
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Kestrel2126
Well-known member
Obviously the Comp Track and 5.1 are completely different, that was kind of the point. However if you put 1" screws, into a 2 1/4" lug, then the top 1" of the lug will not flex, therefore creating an unnatural bending point in the lug at the tip of the screw. I don't disagree however, that the 5.1 track can be modded, in small ways like cutting tips, to make it perform better for your particular riding conditions. The original question was about studding the track. My response is, that if you want a "studded" track, carbide screws in a Comp track, is a better option, for several reasons, than a 5.1, with true studs, OR screws in the lugs.
C
Clarke673
Somewhere between too dumb to quit and flat earth
you guys..... lol.
you run 2" screws with big box heads so it didgs into ice, dirt, logs, flesh, skidoo's, what ever it may be, THEY WORK!
I am wanting to get rid of my assault track to get a 5.1. I will have a pattern of one normal lug, one cut lug, and then one cut lug with screws in it. Then another long lug...you get the idea.
I have been doign this mod for about 3-4 years now. IMO, just keep in mind you have to put hifax or aluminum bars in your tunnel to protect your coolers!
FYI, there is alot more room between the track and the tunnel in the pro's! on the IQ and IQR, you have to be carefull!
you run 2" screws with big box heads so it didgs into ice, dirt, logs, flesh, skidoo's, what ever it may be, THEY WORK!
I am wanting to get rid of my assault track to get a 5.1. I will have a pattern of one normal lug, one cut lug, and then one cut lug with screws in it. Then another long lug...you get the idea.
I have been doign this mod for about 3-4 years now. IMO, just keep in mind you have to put hifax or aluminum bars in your tunnel to protect your coolers!
FYI, there is alot more room between the track and the tunnel in the pro's! on the IQ and IQR, you have to be carefull!
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skyler.hager
Member
hahahahah!
captcolby...
For you and your particular circumstance and YOU ONLY (PRO) as this has only been tested by me on a limited basis. Take your 5.1 and trim it down so that the nubs all come off as one and that nets you about a 2.1" track. Insert the 1" "HEX HEAD" traction screws in the inner only lugs with the hex heads seated but not buried into the lugs for ice traction. Set the screws only in the locations that have a widened base section to the belt. (I think it's only two per lug..possibly three but I'm not going out into the shop to look) If you look up under your tunnel you will see that the PRO cooler protector shields are the line you must stay within and that is the center row lugs only. Leave the outside lugs trimmed but not inset with any screws. (seat your screws as shown in photo two as commented on).
Remember guys you must trim your track down or it will eventually drag or rub in places as it works through the suspension play and has the standard walk off of the drivers under power. The other technique for prepping a tunnel for a full fleet of screws is to rivet hyfax under your tunnel down the center so that it protects your cooler shields. KNOW THIS: any one single spot that scrapes or taps as your track rolls around KILLS YOUR PERFORMANCE so you are far better off to have a slightly shorter lug and have zero clearance issues under any and all conditions versus a deeper lug that scrapes occasionally as the suspension works.
This mod will add 1/2lbs rolling mass to your track which on excellent clutching pulls your R's down 150RPM at full shift out. So you will have to either respring your secondary (this is my recommendation) or drop 1 gram from the primary. IT pulls like mad so that is why I either leave it alone and run 7950 or respring the end tension on the secondary if you feel like you want 8200. If you pull down the motor with lighter primary weight you do loose a little upshift pull and mid range power to hold the 8200. You'll be shocked at how your buggy pulls if you do this setup.
I run a Carl's clutch package so if you want optimum performance call up Carl's 208-853-5550 and buy their clutch kit...then weight your primary to your situation. I've had a standout ripper from 3000ft to 8000ft with this exact setup. 100% know this is also the candy for higher as we gram down but when I was at 10,000 for testing we did not have this exact combo.
NO $175 BELTS BURNED & NO EXTRA VENTING...SUPER FAST SLED....beat that!
For you and your particular circumstance and YOU ONLY (PRO) as this has only been tested by me on a limited basis. Take your 5.1 and trim it down so that the nubs all come off as one and that nets you about a 2.1" track. Insert the 1" "HEX HEAD" traction screws in the inner only lugs with the hex heads seated but not buried into the lugs for ice traction. Set the screws only in the locations that have a widened base section to the belt. (I think it's only two per lug..possibly three but I'm not going out into the shop to look) If you look up under your tunnel you will see that the PRO cooler protector shields are the line you must stay within and that is the center row lugs only. Leave the outside lugs trimmed but not inset with any screws. (seat your screws as shown in photo two as commented on).
Remember guys you must trim your track down or it will eventually drag or rub in places as it works through the suspension play and has the standard walk off of the drivers under power. The other technique for prepping a tunnel for a full fleet of screws is to rivet hyfax under your tunnel down the center so that it protects your cooler shields. KNOW THIS: any one single spot that scrapes or taps as your track rolls around KILLS YOUR PERFORMANCE so you are far better off to have a slightly shorter lug and have zero clearance issues under any and all conditions versus a deeper lug that scrapes occasionally as the suspension works.
This mod will add 1/2lbs rolling mass to your track which on excellent clutching pulls your R's down 150RPM at full shift out. So you will have to either respring your secondary (this is my recommendation) or drop 1 gram from the primary. IT pulls like mad so that is why I either leave it alone and run 7950 or respring the end tension on the secondary if you feel like you want 8200. If you pull down the motor with lighter primary weight you do loose a little upshift pull and mid range power to hold the 8200. You'll be shocked at how your buggy pulls if you do this setup.
I run a Carl's clutch package so if you want optimum performance call up Carl's 208-853-5550 and buy their clutch kit...then weight your primary to your situation. I've had a standout ripper from 3000ft to 8000ft with this exact setup. 100% know this is also the candy for higher as we gram down but when I was at 10,000 for testing we did not have this exact combo.
NO $175 BELTS BURNED & NO EXTRA VENTING...SUPER FAST SLED....beat that!
S
sledneck_03
Well-known member
I just cut off the nubs and i gained alot more traction on hard pack and worked the same in the pow being there still is 2.25" of lug. there is a firmer sharper edge biting now rather than a soft marshmallow edge haha. I also noticed that it could have been the rider but i could tractor around where a stock 5.1 was spinning more.
