My primary clutch absolutly will not come off. I ve bent 2 clutch pullers on the tip.I tried the method of filling the crank with wd 40 and teflon on the threads,it still didnt work.I would greatly appreciate any input. Thanks
STUBBORN CLUTCH
- Thread starter sledsnowco
- Start date
Where should I apply the heat?
Quality puller, truck tire shop impact wrench.
To the center steel portion closest to the crank stub.
Heat will work, just be carefull not to get to hot especially down around the crank seal. Also a quality puller should not bend, if you have cheaper aftermarket ones they will all bend. Good luck let us know how you fair.
Not true, I bent 2 quality pullers and a cheap one. Tried heat, water with the sled on it's side, leaving the puller on for a day after heat, oil with the sled on it's side, tapping on the puller...you name it, I tried it to avoid the impact. Some clutches are just that stuck.
And in hindsight, trying all of these different failed methods first undoubtedly caused more stress to the snout of that crank than a quick hit with a high power impact.
I'd suggest grease on the tip of the puller and a 3/4" impact (high torgue)... it will come or bleed.. lesser impacts(1/2 or 3/8) may hammer for awhile and wreak havoc on your crank. Some 1/2" impacts on steroids put out torgue comparable to many 3/4's though... Good luck
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I tried all them methods and it still is stuck.My impact is half inch,and didnt really have enough umff behind it.Im at a loss.Thanks for all the help.
When I use the torch on the clutch, I shove a wet rag between the clutch and the crank seal for extra protection.
tip sled on side fill clutch with oil and grease right up full. Wrap puller about 20-30 times with teflon tape put puller in extra grease and oil gets pushed out screw puller in with an impact. If the mixture is leaking by taped threads put more tape on. Has to seal good to work. It has work for me when the sleds been to other shops and they couldnot get the clutch off. Just watch out when the clutch pops off you'll think it had at least 50tons on it
T
theshadowrider
Well-known member
My clutch was also stuck on my 08 dragon 800. I used anti seeze on the end of the puller and on the threads. I tried putting the sled on its side and putting water down in the hole and then putting the puller in. I used a 3' cheater, 3/4 impact, hammer, and it ruined the puller. I then went and bought another puller and this time I pulled my sled out and set it in the hot sun so the sun was shinning on the clutch. It went from being cold to the touch in the shop to hot to the touch. I then put a ton of anti-seeze on the threads and the end of the puller. I then used my 3' cheater and would tighten, then hit the end with a hammer, tighten, then hammer, then tighten, then I gave it a tap and then all of a sudden it popped and came off. Looks like I ruined the second puller also. The end is cracked. Whats a good puller. I got mine from polaris but looks like it was made by EPI. I was then worried about the crank so I checked the runout on it and it was less than .001, like .0005. I hope inside everything is okay. I then went to install the clutch and found the threads got ruined when the first puller bent to the side. I then had to tap the threads back out and finally got the clutch back on. What a pain. Seems like there is got to be a better way than a tapered crank. They should have made them spline that seems better.
Warming the clutch up was the key for me.
Warming the clutch up was the key for me.
Ditto. A bucket of grease packed in there then run the tool in. Very messy but effective.
T
Tanman
Member
I have seen a crank broke because we couldn't get the primary off of an almost brand new D8. heat didn't work, impact was getting violent, finally moved up in hammer size till the clutch came off.. with the pto and damaged the cases.. it was ugly and took almost a week of trying. one warranty submission later and now we know how important not over torquing a taper is
Finally got that stubborn ho off.I used lots of grease and heat.Thanks for everyones help.DUMPING IN COLORADO.....
E
EricW
Well-known member
Don't forget a swipe or two with some fine emory cloth on the stub before install. I would also take a look inside the taper bore and look for any little imperfections that seem to grab on pretty well when you should really be watching the game.
Ditto on proper clutch bolt torque and no more. Good luck. EW
Ditto on proper clutch bolt torque and no more. Good luck. EW
Heat takes most things off unless you have gaulling on the shaft. When people say add heat they don't mean a prep torch with mapp gas it means a real torch with a small rose bud tip with the puller under pressure. I have popped clutchs with a two prybars and a torch. The key is to heat the clutch quickly before the crack shaft expands.
