Thank you!!! Going to buy an avid carb heater.
Looking into engine covers. Looking at a few options. J&L looks nice. Also see power sports tech has a cover. Any other recommendations?
Snowbike newbie - wr450, mh st
- Thread starter shelbwyo
- Start date
Looking into engine covers. Looking at a few options. J&L looks nice. Also see power sports tech has a cover. Any other recommendations?
either is good, powersports are flexible and fold down for warm days when no sow flying up, but remain with u in caser u hit mad pow at high elevation. the j&l rigid ones are harder to remove on warm days but are very nice, u may have to leave the rigid ones at the truck in the am and be without if u hit mad pow.
Any recommendation on which bar warmers?
personally I run moose or heat demon, heat demon have been good, any kind that don't have that stupid ceramic resistor that makes them work on low by dumping the extra juice. or check out the hotgrips brand. the clutch side will not get as hot as the throttle side unless u insulate the bar, this (insulating the bar) will cause u to need to use a thinner throttle side grip on both sides.
also I would install a switch so you can turn the light off when running the grips, u can most likely run both light and grips but its nice to be able to isolate them just in case. trail tech or cyclops offer switches.
Perfect thanks for the help. I run the tusk lighting kit, so the switch is already on, so turn it off when using the hand warmers.
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My bike has a 14 tooth, need to count the teeth on the track kit.
I tried sending you a pm, but says you cant recieve them. I wanted to ask you about jetting. Just bought two wr450's, mine has a 155 main jet, 45 pilot, and 65 starter jet. It has a bog on the bottom end at 4000'.
My fathers wr450, has a 150 main jet, 50 pilot jet and it did not have a starter jet in it. This bike flooded once when started ( i think due to no starter jet ), but it idles and runs better than the other bike with no bog.
What do you run for jetting? I will be riding the snowbike at 8-10 thousand feet.
If it helps, I have an 05 WR450 and run a 168 main and 48 pilot. For snowbiking I run the stock exhaust with a larger tip and pull the spark arrestor. Most of my riding is from 4-7K feet. Your jetting sounds pretty lean, but you're at a higher elevation so maybe it needs to be that way.
Hi folks,
I'm not trying to hijack the thread, just jump into a pretty active discussion regarding Yamaha WR's.
I asked a couple seasons back if my 99 WR400F would have the power to pull a Timbersled kit and the only real reply was kind of a smart *** "no", with no other replies or explanations.
I never ride the poor thing anymore and I bought it brand new, just seems a natural use for it to snowbike it?
I have it uncorked and YZ timed of course too.
I see the WR450's are used a lot in the snowbiking community....mines not that much less powered I wouldn't think?
Thanks,
Vince
I'm not trying to hijack the thread, just jump into a pretty active discussion regarding Yamaha WR's.
I asked a couple seasons back if my 99 WR400F would have the power to pull a Timbersled kit and the only real reply was kind of a smart *** "no", with no other replies or explanations.
I never ride the poor thing anymore and I bought it brand new, just seems a natural use for it to snowbike it?
I have it uncorked and YZ timed of course too.
I see the WR450's are used a lot in the snowbiking community....mines not that much less powered I wouldn't think?
Thanks,
Vince
M
more snow
Active member
What, needle clip position are you running with this combination?
[4QUOTE=Alphageek;3886830]If it helps, I have an 05 WR450 and run a 168 main and 48 pilot. For snowbiking I run the stock exhaust with a larger tip and pull the spark arrestor. Most of my riding is from 4-7K feet. Your jetting sounds pretty lean, but you're at a higher elevation so maybe it needs to be that way.[/QUOTE]
[4QUOTE=Alphageek;3886830]If it helps, I have an 05 WR450 and run a 168 main and 48 pilot. For snowbiking I run the stock exhaust with a larger tip and pull the spark arrestor. Most of my riding is from 4-7K feet. Your jetting sounds pretty lean, but you're at a higher elevation so maybe it needs to be that way.[/QUOTE]
M
more snow
Active member
Your uncorked 99 WR400 should have plenty of power to run as a snowbike. I would just go for it.
[/QUOTE]
I actually haven't been all the way into the carb since I've had it (about 4 years), so I'm assuming the clip is in the stock position. I have only pulled the plug in the bottom of the bowl to switch the main and pilot jets.
my wr jetting
I will have to pull my carb apart to check my stock carb '.
Last year I put a Lectron on my WR450 . I was running a JD jetting kit needle and richer pilot, I will check main in the carb, and it was ok, I run 4-8000.
I will have to pull my carb apart to check my stock carb '.
Last year I put a Lectron on my WR450 . I was running a JD jetting kit needle and richer pilot, I will check main in the carb, and it was ok, I run 4-8000.
Ran into a little bit of a problem today, have a 34 link chain that came with the used kit. With the 14 tooth sprocket on the bike the chain is too short, by about half a link. It appears that a 36 link chain will be too long and the tensioner would push the chain down into the lugs on the track. I have a 16 tooth sprocket i am going to try tomorrow along with a new chain and maybe a 36 link chain will work with. But... that would cause my bike to be higher geared.
I started with the Timbersled-recommended 13-tooth countershaft sprocket (13-17-17-20), but the gearing, in my opinion, was much lower than necessary. First gear was like a granny gear and I only used it when loading it into the truck. And the bike was screaming in fifth going down the road at 25-30 mph. When I tried a 14-tooth countershaft I ran into the same problem you had, where the chain was too short. So I ran one season with a half-link in the chain (14-17-17-20). It worked fine and I never had a failure, but I didn't really trust it. Last year, when I was installing the double bearing upgrade, I went ahead and swapped the two chaincase sprockets and ran all season that way (13-17-20-17). This was too far the other way. First was a little high and every gear higher than that seemed way too high most of the time. So I finally bought a different jackshaft sprocket and got it installed for this season. Going one tooth smaller on the jackshaft will allow me to go one tooth larger on the countershaft without a half-link, plus I put the chaincase back to stock (14-16-17-20). I'm done messing with it after this.
I started with the Timbersled-recommended 13-tooth countershaft sprocket (13-17-17-20), but the gearing, in my opinion, was much lower than necessary. First gear was like a granny gear and I only used it when loading it into the truck. And the bike was screaming in fifth going down the road at 25-30 mph. When I tried a 14-tooth countershaft I ran into the same problem you had, where the chain was too short. So I ran one season with a half-link in the chain (14-17-17-20). It worked fine and I never had a failure, but I didn't really trust it. Last year, when I was installing the double bearing upgrade, I went ahead and swapped the two chaincase sprockets and ran all season that way (13-17-20-17). This was too far the other way. First was a little high and every gear higher than that seemed way too high most of the time. So I finally bought a different jackshaft sprocket and got it installed for this season. Going one tooth smaller on the jackshaft will allow me to go one tooth larger on the countershaft without a half-link, plus I put the chaincase back to stock (14-16-17-20). I'm done messing with it after this.
How did the gearing with the 14-17-17-20 and the half link seem to be while riding?
Is this the same sort of half link that you used? https://www.denniskirk.com/parts-un...chain-repair-kit-t5204.p113131.prd/113131.sku
It was better than with the 13T, but I felt like it could be a bit higher. That's why I'm thinking the 14-16-17-20 gearing will be just about right.
That half-link is the EXACT one that I had (the one that's included in the Parts Unlimited chain repair kit from Dennis Kirk). I think I remember that it had a sloppy fit when I connected it to the stock o-ring chain (the pins were smaller), so I decided to order a Parts Unlimited standard, non o-ring chain. This chain worked okay, but it stretched like crazy every ride. After a few rides the chain adjuster was almost all the way out and the chain was almost touching the track. So I ordered a Tsubaki half-link that I had heard good things about, hoping it would work well with my o-ring chain. But it had thicker pins and it wouldn't install on the o-ring chain. So my last thing to try was to order a Tsubaki non o-ring chain and use the Tsubaki half-link. I got the chain but ran out of time that season to try it. By the start of the next season (last year) I had swapped the chaincase sprockets to give that a shot.
Sorry for the long post, but I hope it helps you out.
Ha I should have read this I just started a post about doing this.
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Ha! Yeah, I already answered on your other post. A new jackshaft sprocket isn't cheap and isn't nearly as easy to install as a new countershaft sprocket and a half-link. As long as you're carrying spare parts to fix it if it breaks, you should be in good shape. Getting the gearing set to make all the gears more usable is worth the trouble.
