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snow tires on trailer?

One other thing that I seen mentioned recently above, is UV rays.

I have heard many horror stories of camper tires going bad within 3 years doo to UV rays, while the tires under my gooseneck show no signs of issue.
I'm guessing that it depends on if you are buying good tires, or the cheapest P'sOS that you can find?

I don't own anything that I want the cheapest tires on.
 
OK now the acceleration point sounds completely bogus to me.

If somehow applied torque is a field in the equazsion of how the tire is designed and built, Shirley they take into account braking.
My trailer is set to doo as much braking as possible w/o sliding the tires too much - with the porpoise of that to be that I still have truck brakes to add in an emergency stop situation.
Braking is going to be a higher trq rating than acceleration.
Traction.
They will not maintain the same Traction as a car tire on a drive axle. Sidewall flex is important on vehicle for both handling and ride quality.

There are several reasons why u do not want to put trailer tires on a vehicle. Traction is the main reason.

Again, u can put any tire on anything u want.

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In the 1990’s we began supplying our farm trailers and implements with tires by pulling our pickup tires around 30-40 percent so pickups got the fresh tires. I have never seen cord separation or tire failure prior to tread wear need for removal. These are HEAVY highway speed trailers also being beaten in the fields and turned on a dime daily.
A good lt tire is not underbuilt for trailer use.


Another observation we’ve had is in mud and snow a traction non driving tire will roll.
Same situation a smooth tire will push. Nothing bites to spin the tire so it will stop rotating and slide pushing up a show stopper.
Which is the same as braking in snow in stead of sliding.
 
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Traction.
They will not maintain the same Traction as a car tire on a drive axle. Sidewall flex is important on vehicle for both handling and ride quality.

There are several reasons why u do not want to put trailer tires on a vehicle. Traction is the main reason.

Again, u can put any tire on anything u want.

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Is there a difference in sidewall squish between a "For Trailer Use Only" 3800# single load rated tire and one designated LT?
The tires on my trailer sure seem to squish when they have a load of steel on the deck.
???

I doo agree that squish is a good thing in most apps for the reasons that you stated.
Not sure of your point tho as we are talking aboot puting truck tires on trailers, not trailer tires on cars.

???
 
Not all year long, in Idaho studs can be used 1 October to 30 April. They don't really enforce the restriction though.







Here's for the states that neighbor Idaho:


Studded tire laws vary in neighboring states:
  • Montana: Oct. 1 – May 31
  • Nevada: Oct. 1 – April 30
  • Utah: Oct. 15 – April 15
  • Oregon: Nov. 1 – March 31
  • Washington: Nov. 1 – March 31
  • Wyoming: Legal all year
I don't use my trailer in the summer.


It is silly to be ilegal for a trailer as the reason studs are ilegal in some parts is if you spin the tire it can damage the asphalt. Non-driving wheels don't do this. But who ever said all laws made sense.
 
It is silly to be ilegal for a trailer as the reason studs are ilegal in some parts is if you spin the tire it can damage the asphalt. Non-driving wheels don't do this. But who ever said all laws made sense.
Have you ever seen pics of the skidoo trail hwy crossings in Minnesotta?
Studs have pricked the asphalt so bad that they started cutting the crossings out and pouring concrete in that high-wear area.
 
Have you ever seen pics of the skidoo trail hwy crossings in Minnesotta?
Studs have pricked the asphalt so bad that they started cutting the crossings out and pouring concrete in that high-wear area.
I would believe that. Longer studs and skis skags digging in too.
 
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In the 1990’s we began supplying our farm trailers and implements with tires by pulling our pickup tires around 30-40 percent so pickups got the fresh tires. I have never seen cord separation or tire failure prior to tread wear need for removal. These are HEAVY highway speed trailers also being beaten in the fields and turned on a dime daily.
A good lt tire is not underbuilt for trailer use.

Another observation we’ve had is in mud and snow a traction non driving tire will roll.
Same situation a smooth tire will push. Nothing bites to spin the tire so it will stop rotating and slide pushing up a show stopper.
That is probably the smartest financial way to put tires on a trailer.
Ur running a truck tire for 10-30% of its life on a trailer. I wouldn't expect them to seperate that quick either!

a good LT tire should work well on most trailers. New to new, $3-400 a piece vs $1-200, doesn't make as much sense when buying new....[emoji52]

That said, most snowmobile trailers will not fit a 10ply Lt due to the small size. U will need to use a P rated tire.

Car tire will work and studded winter tires will provide much more braking traction, run them at the correct air pressure and don't expect them all to make it down to 20% tread. Even if they last 50% that is likely equal to or longer tread life than the correct trailer tire. U just pay a lot more up front for the car tire.


My point is;
All tires are not created equal.


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My sled trailers get brand new lt tires because I’m not running a 15” rim skinny on a truck, so we’ve burned through plenty of 100% tires as well with no separation.
I can’t tell you the last time I’ve had a tire failure.
Like ox said, my belongings are too valuable for cheap tires. Not a fan of downtime either.
 
re - separation:

Exactly what doo you mean by that?
(whoever brought it up)

I have had good tires on my dually give up the ghost as per blowing a chord a few times over the years, and I think that I could point to overloading at some point in it's life.
I could see "overloading" being an issue in the case of puting "car" tires (13's/14's?) on a trailer, as usually a trailer will be expecting to carry more weight per tire than a car - both running the same size tire. And I'm not sure if a "car" tire is going to have a load rating on it or not?

But when you start getting into 16" and Load Range E and such tires, then I'm not expecting that there would be much issue?


Or are we talking aboot delamination and gater-backs flinging down the road?
 
re - separation:

Exactly what doo you mean by that?
(whoever brought it up)

I have had good tires on my dually give up the ghost as per blowing a chord a few times over the years, and I think that I could point to overloading at some point in it's life.
I could see "overloading" being an issue in the case of puting "car" tires (13's/14's?) on a trailer, as usually a trailer will be expecting to carry more weight per tire than a car - both running the same size tire. And I'm not sure if a "car" tire is going to have a load rating on it or not?

But when you start getting into 16" and Load Range E and such tires, then I'm not expecting that there would be much issue?


Or are we talking aboot delamination and gater-backs flinging down the road?
Cord separation in the carcass under the tread.
It is usually caused by under inflation/ overloading.

Remember, load capacity and inflation are directly related.

U can 'overload' a 10ply tire with half of its capacity if not properly inflated.

Heat is the main cause of premature tire failure, heat is caused from improper inflation to load rate. Or severe alignment issues.

All tires should have a load rating and air pressure rating.


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I just realized I have an older set of cooper studded snow tires off of a s-10 pickup I used to drive. They have plenty of treads and ok studs still. Been stored inside so shouldn't be too much UV damage. 15" rims like my trailer. I think the load rating is pretty decent as well. Need to dig them out and give them a good look. Pair those 4 with the two new regular trailer tires I just put on last year and I should be in business for a couple seasons!
 
Hot shot, contractors, commercial companies, campers on non OEM tires run millions of miles a day on LT tires carrying much higher weight than most sled runners would ever do in a season. Been camping for years and the "china bombs" as they are called typical RV cheapest ST tire they can find to put on a camper that is sold on lots. They didn't get that name because they are good tires, most camper forums have extensive conversations about these POS tires and options to change to... ST tires are hard to find better than 15 years ago when I tried but I wouldn't worry about going to a ST tires.

I would look at LT tires for sure no question or worry running them.

I wonder if Blizzak make a tire size option to fit your trailer, they are an awesome snow tire, friend runs them on his truck and pretty impressive. And technically legal in all states year round.


FYI in WA state we can run studs but they really destroy the roads years ago I found a study they did on how much wear a stud does per trip on the roads, It was pretty impressive info. Anyone in Seattle are only needs to look at I90 and the ruts that are created.

I'm actually shocked that any state allows studs these days.
 
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Something interesting worth noting i saw the other day.
Was at a camper dealer and was looking at the "off road" campers they had, they all had Goodyear Duratrac tires under them from the factory.
It was a Winnebago MICRO MINNIE 2108FBS APPROX weight is 3600lbs dry.

Also side note the duratrac is a studdable tire with the 3PMS symbol.
Kinda shoots holes it the ST tire Idea.
 
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