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smart carbs really take 6 wks for delivery

What carb are you running now? Summitboy ran the smarty on his cr500 last season but has gone away from it in favour of a pulsed PWK. I am running a stock PWK air stryker on my CR500. I have been working through some consistency issues but the bike usually rips pretty good. I will be looking seriously at doing the pulse set up in the near future.

M5
 
Id use a billet 38mm on your 500. Some waited a lot longer than 6 weeks lol. I may have a billet 38 for sale.
 
I can tell you this I have the billet 38 on my highly ported cr500... I run 110 and it runs like a raped ape.... I now have about 17 hours on the bike with the heated color and have zero issues with freezing..went riding today bike set out all night hit the primer 5 times and started cold within 8 kicks at -4.. Road from 7000 to 11000 zero hicup.. Besides the vibes it runs crazy clean. I would go billet..



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i need some advice, take a look at the top of the port u can see a little square notch into the cylinder, it almost looks perfect like it was suppose to be there, what do u guys think? could a ring be doing that? it is on the other ex. port as well but not in the same spot. cylinder is ported and i am afraid it would have to be resleeved cause of not being in tolerance cause of how deep the notches are above the ports. anyone know of good quality and fast turn around on cylinder work? also needing a decompression valve installed, anyone also know of a person i could get ahold of?IMG_1073.jpg
 
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/Users/Wegners/Desktop/IMG_1073.jpg i need some advice, take a look at the top of the port u can see a little square notch into the cylinder, it almost looks perfect like it was suppose to be there, what do u guys think? could a ring be doing that? it is on the other ex. port as well but not in the same spot. cylinder is ported and i am afraid it would have to be resleeved cause of not being in tolerance cause of how deep the notches are above the ports. anyone know of good quality and fast turn around on cylinder work? also needing a decompression valve installed, anyone also know of a person i could get ahold of?

The picture did not come through.... I would say the the fastest turn around for both would be Eric Gore with Millennium... They can do both... I know Summit Boy has some other people he has used... I use a guy in Ca gss race porting to port and re sleeve but he had an 8 week lead time over the summer.. It's a screamer and runs like a snowmobile engine.


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I use Adam Millar from Millar racing. He is the bomb when it comes to 500's. When he does a sleeve it is perfectly straight and true. The porting is all completed by him not some highschool lacky lol. Its a thing of beauty !

If you want the most torque try his TWIRP port ! Spendy but worth every penny !

Millar is in Canada. I have never seen another dyno chart even close to his torque. Maybe horsepower but not torque.

Adam also has for you KX fans a two piece clutch cover. Its reasonably priced and makes clutch changes nice and easy. Also Adam does the decomp valves which make the 500 a lot easier to kick.

Very soon he will have timing plates to adapt the CRF stators to the 500's. More power without the Eline cost.

If you call Adam tell him Summitboy sent ya ! I can tell ya Adam provides the best customer service long long after the sale !


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just wondering if you guys are waiting 6+wks for a order or they just being modest, I NEED ONE NOW!!!! Anyone have a smart carb they want to sell

APT is busy trying to keep up. They have a run of 40MM Billets being done now. Hopefully a couple weeks for folks who are waiting.?.?.? I ran the 40MM Billet on that original "Monster" build. Service Honda KX500AF. The 40 was awesome. Those big 2 strokes move a ton of air. Ton's of video out there on it. It ran one step below a turboed 450. It would "hold" a max RPM in 3rd gear and never fade. I ran the .078 fuel rod and had excellent plug color and 1260 EGT's. Ran it hard all season with zero issues.

I will see if I can get an update for delivery from Corey. I have 40's here, but for customers installs.
 
i need some advice, take a look at the top of the port u can see a little square notch into the cylinder, it almost looks perfect like it was suppose to be there, what do u guys think? could a ring be doing that? it is on the other ex. port as well but not in the same spot. cylinder is ported and i am afraid it would have to be resleeved cause of not being in tolerance cause of how deep the notches are above the ports. anyone know of good quality and fast turn around on cylinder work? also needing a decompression valve installed, anyone also know of a person i could get ahold of?View attachment 246293

those notches are meant to be there, they are to make it a little easier to kick over. cyl has prob never been bored. oncve you bore the decompression scallops will disapear. adam millar does excellent engine work. but saying that i have the decompression button and never use it. easy to kick but doesnt like to fire up as easy
 
Ok need to get my mic out and measure dia. For sure the cylinder is out of round looks like someone was in there with a hone but did a bad job. Does anyone know of a small motor machinist in Billings,Mt? The top of the piston looks as if the color was washing off, could that be coolent leak maybe from the silicon on the head and I'm sure they did the base gasket also. I was thinking of totally getting rid of the radiators and using heat exchanger in the tunnel, does anyone run some type of setup out there like that? Last season a tree limb impailed my radiator on my 450 and made for big problems tring to get back to the truck, my "new" 500 is going to be a permenit snowbike.
 
i run a 2007 ski-doo rear heat exchanger and no rads, works great. need scratchers for hard packed roads.

wrecked two rads last year and had trouble keeping it cool on days with no powder
 
I don't run a stat on the stock cooling system. Never had a problem with temps yet. 100-120 all day in the deep snow. Trail it gets a little warm (200-220) up trail but a stat wouldn't do anything for that anyway.
 
Why does the trail get your bike hot? Normally the trail your moving faster with more air flow? Mine actually gets pretty hot in deep powder when you can't get past second gear and working the hell out of the engine?
 
getting hot on trail because you heading up hill for long periods and the bike has to work much harder then if it just had wheels on it.

for deep days here on the coast not a chance in hell of keeping the temps up without a stat
 
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