I just picked up a 2009 Arctic Cat M8 153 and am planning on putting on the SLP Single Pipe Kit. My brother and dad just bought two 2010 M8 153's, so I'm hoping this will keep me in the game with them. I dont really want to be messing around to much with the sled while i'm riding, so what all needs to be done to make this sled with the kit run right? I know some clutching needs to be done, what are you all doing for that? Any other things your doing to it? I usually ride at Revy, (not to sure the elevation) but im guessing 8000 to 12000 feet elevation. Thanks in advance.
SLP Pipe Kit tips?
- Thread starter goodan
- Start date
All i did was drop 3 grams in the primary weight. runs right at 8100 on the packed road at 8000 feet. Not sure how it will work in the powder since we dont have any yet. A big improvement over stock though. Pulls hard all the way
Take a look at this............. the clutching you need is listed below.
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/instsheets/09-872.pdf
You'll want a shift assist kit, simple yet effective.
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/instsheets/09-872.pdf
You'll want a shift assist kit, simple yet effective.
K
killerrf
Well-known member
at minimum youll have to change weights for revy then back to heavier ones for at home. not sure about the " elevation box "?
J
jnj55024
New member
I had to cut the end off of a round headed allen wrench to get clearance to tighten the cap bolts on the y pipe. I found a small 3" long ratcheting box end wrench at Sears that I used with the end of the allen wrench to tighten the cap bolts on the Y pipe (PITA). Use high temp silicone sparingly on the y pipe gaskets and on the doughnuts to eliminate blow by.
Buy an extra set of springs and double spring the pipe to the y pipe. They seem to be stretched more than on the stock set up. I had one break on me. I found the main spring part but not the end hook. Having doubles would ensure you don't come loose while riding. (If they break and get into the clutch your screwed I hear)
Heat the stock studs a little before you try to back them out. It will loosen the lock tight and make it much easier to back them out. Use the stock nuts tightened on each other to back the studs out. Use blue lock tight putting them back in to be sure they don't come out again. You can always heat up the new bolts if you ever need to remove them.
You will love the pipe. It is a little taller than stock so I used a hood lift kit from RKT. Others are using a heat gun and re-forming their stock intakes or going to aftermarket intakes like BDX.
I took out all my stock insulation and heat taped everything under the hood that will see heat from the pipe. It gets Hotttt!!!.
Buy an extra set of springs and double spring the pipe to the y pipe. They seem to be stretched more than on the stock set up. I had one break on me. I found the main spring part but not the end hook. Having doubles would ensure you don't come loose while riding. (If they break and get into the clutch your screwed I hear)
Heat the stock studs a little before you try to back them out. It will loosen the lock tight and make it much easier to back them out. Use the stock nuts tightened on each other to back the studs out. Use blue lock tight putting them back in to be sure they don't come out again. You can always heat up the new bolts if you ever need to remove them.
You will love the pipe. It is a little taller than stock so I used a hood lift kit from RKT. Others are using a heat gun and re-forming their stock intakes or going to aftermarket intakes like BDX.
I took out all my stock insulation and heat taped everything under the hood that will see heat from the pipe. It gets Hotttt!!!.
I don't get it you guys. If you have to drop weight to make RPM. Your not making more POWER. Now I understand you need to get the over rev, but if your doing it with lighter weight you guys are getting punked.
I've read the dyno sheets. My friend ran the slp kit for 2 yrs. He had to do the same thing (lighter Weight) My M7 was pushing more weight. For the first year all I herd was how great it was (blinded $BUY$ the shine under the hood) 2nd year pretty quiet. Now he sold it. A sled that just runs good does't really mean its making more power.
MORE POWER= MORE RPM
MORE RPM= MORE PRIMARY WEIGHT
907kb
Read your comments on light weights to get RPM,
Not trying to bash here, just my thoughts on clutching.
Ill try and explain my thoughts.
There is torque sensing, RPM sensing clutching,(drive/driven).
start with the engine, it makes peak horse power at "XXX" RPM on dyno.
next thing in line is the clutch, so you try and adjust clutch weights/springs to have full shift at engine "XXX" RPM.
we know that the power band changes with the pipe kit, or other mods. All your trying to do is adjust your clutching to match the new power band. No different than transmission and rear end ratios in cars that drag race.
Just my thoughts, I may be all wet. but it works for me. RickM
Read your comments on light weights to get RPM,
Not trying to bash here, just my thoughts on clutching.
Ill try and explain my thoughts.
There is torque sensing, RPM sensing clutching,(drive/driven).
start with the engine, it makes peak horse power at "XXX" RPM on dyno.
next thing in line is the clutch, so you try and adjust clutch weights/springs to have full shift at engine "XXX" RPM.
we know that the power band changes with the pipe kit, or other mods. All your trying to do is adjust your clutching to match the new power band. No different than transmission and rear end ratios in cars that drag race.
Just my thoughts, I may be all wet. but it works for me. RickM
I'm with you 907KB.
I too feel that if a pipe is making more power you should have to add clutch weight to keep the sled from over reving.
I too have seen the dyno sheet and the pipe numbers look fairly impressive. Then I rode a stocker and a SLP equipped M8 back to back and I bought the single pipe setup. I could feel a difference yet the clutching was very close to same as stock. Weird.
I like to add weight to the clutch weights and make the motor work as hard as possible to pull peak RPM. I do this by using the highest total force spring I can find (that has a reasonable engagement) and start adding weight to the clutch weights until I am throwing as much weight as the motor can handle and still pull shift RPM.
That being said, I haven't had much of a chance to do so yet due to lack of snow this season in our area.
If nothing else, the weight savings of the single pipe setup is fairly impressive.
I too feel that if a pipe is making more power you should have to add clutch weight to keep the sled from over reving.
I too have seen the dyno sheet and the pipe numbers look fairly impressive. Then I rode a stocker and a SLP equipped M8 back to back and I bought the single pipe setup. I could feel a difference yet the clutching was very close to same as stock. Weird.
I like to add weight to the clutch weights and make the motor work as hard as possible to pull peak RPM. I do this by using the highest total force spring I can find (that has a reasonable engagement) and start adding weight to the clutch weights until I am throwing as much weight as the motor can handle and still pull shift RPM.
That being said, I haven't had much of a chance to do so yet due to lack of snow this season in our area.
If nothing else, the weight savings of the single pipe setup is fairly impressive.
S
sledbilly
Member
.
I installed the SLP kit on an 09 xfire 800 and here are some of the things I have found.
1. PIA to reform the heat shield so that the exhaust springs will not rub and to maintain clearance with mag side injector, fuel rail, and wiring harness coming out of ECU.
2. Documentation picture shows the mag injector turned 90 degrees from stock. Nothing in writing about that....took a while to figure that out.
3. another PIA to get the Y pipe on. as others have done I cut down an allen wrench. I also had to grind on the pipe a bit as some of the welds would not allow the bolt to sit flush on the flange.
4. I get a bad resonance, sometimes starting out, sometimes around 5000 rpm or so. It is really annoying and I haven't figured out yet.
5. definite burble on low end, don't know if lean or rich. plugs look ok but I'm not an expert when it comes to plug read. fuel pressure at 44psi. see attached pic of spark plug.
6. still running stock clutching (77g yellow/white 46/40 orange) and turning 7860 so I need some help there. I really don't want to remove the spider and add a shim to run the MTX weights. I would rather find a different drive spring/weight. I want to keep the engagement where it is around 3800.
Other than that the motor runs like a raped aped. I couldn't believe the difference and I have yet to get into the 8000rpm range.
I installed the SLP kit on an 09 xfire 800 and here are some of the things I have found.
1. PIA to reform the heat shield so that the exhaust springs will not rub and to maintain clearance with mag side injector, fuel rail, and wiring harness coming out of ECU.
2. Documentation picture shows the mag injector turned 90 degrees from stock. Nothing in writing about that....took a while to figure that out.
3. another PIA to get the Y pipe on. as others have done I cut down an allen wrench. I also had to grind on the pipe a bit as some of the welds would not allow the bolt to sit flush on the flange.
4. I get a bad resonance, sometimes starting out, sometimes around 5000 rpm or so. It is really annoying and I haven't figured out yet.
5. definite burble on low end, don't know if lean or rich. plugs look ok but I'm not an expert when it comes to plug read. fuel pressure at 44psi. see attached pic of spark plug.
6. still running stock clutching (77g yellow/white 46/40 orange) and turning 7860 so I need some help there. I really don't want to remove the spider and add a shim to run the MTX weights. I would rather find a different drive spring/weight. I want to keep the engagement where it is around 3800.
Other than that the motor runs like a raped aped. I couldn't believe the difference and I have yet to get into the 8000rpm range.
sledbilly the resonance you hear is more than likely the springs on the pipe singing, take and lay a bead of silicone on them it should clear that up and prevent breaking.
Installed exactly per instructions and riden in the UP of Michigan several days. So far no issues, no melting, everything just fine. Get a slight resonance down low like someone else mentioned and as others the bottom inside y-pipe bolts were sort of a pain. For bending the heat shield underneath I just carefully wedged a big screwdriver under and pryed off the spring hooks to get distance. On one spring it is pretty close and I just put some RTV under the spring and it's been fine.
Other changes made at the same time were 55/65 gears, shift assist, 44/36 helix (from the stock straight 36 helix). Stock clutch springs on both and stock for 0-3000 77 AC weights. Pulls awesome and on the stock tach just a touch over 8k.
Other changes made at the same time were 55/65 gears, shift assist, 44/36 helix (from the stock straight 36 helix). Stock clutch springs on both and stock for 0-3000 77 AC weights. Pulls awesome and on the stock tach just a touch over 8k.
I don't get it you guys. If you have to drop weight to make RPM. Your not making more POWER. Now I understand you need to get the over rev, but if your doing it with lighter weight you guys are getting punked.
I've read the dyno sheets. My friend ran the slp kit for 2 yrs. He had to do the same thing (lighter Weight) My M7 was pushing more weight. For the first year all I herd was how great it was (blinded $BUY$ the shine under the hood) 2nd year pretty quiet. Now he sold it. A sled that just runs good does't really mean its making more power.
MORE POWER= MORE RPM
MORE RPM= MORE PRIMARY WEIGHT
I disagree.
This is the same reason that had me chasing the clutching, more notably up high at 12k ish
While the motor is making more power its doing so at a differant RPM. Stock I found it pulled hard 7900-7950. Getting the SLP pipe into 8150-8200 is night and day, even though I am running less weight.
I tried the 71 MTX recomended by SLP. Ran good pulled 7975 bumped to 8000 sometimes. droped to a 68 MTX and it was night and day. Picked the skis up all the way up the hill, sled has never ran this good
Just look at the new 2010's stock they are running less weight
Point is no matter what weights you come up with, get it up to 8100-8200, thats where the pipe really shines
S
sledbilly
Member
.
Thanx for the tip. Silicone last night and see how it does later today.
I tried the SLP black/yellow 120/310 drive spring yesterday and a new belt. I'm not sure why but the bog is almost gone. I always try to run deflection to where the track will just creep a bit with some help. Rpm's are just under 8000 so planning on trying the SLP black/pink 120/340 today...just happen to have that in my clutch box. Engagement is around 3600 so I may also try 75g cams with the black/yellow spring.
Sled pulls like a mofo, a real arm puller. Crack the throttle and it's right there. Noticeable difference from stock. The other thing I'm happy about is the sled has very good low speed manners on the trail, maneuvering twisties around trees etc. Very smooth engagement with the SLP spring and I can put put around the fields with my 6 yr old son on board.
Now if the resonance goes away with the silicone on the springs then I would have to say the sled is damn near perfect for me.
Thanx for the tip. Silicone last night and see how it does later today.
I tried the SLP black/yellow 120/310 drive spring yesterday and a new belt. I'm not sure why but the bog is almost gone. I always try to run deflection to where the track will just creep a bit with some help. Rpm's are just under 8000 so planning on trying the SLP black/pink 120/340 today...just happen to have that in my clutch box. Engagement is around 3600 so I may also try 75g cams with the black/yellow spring.
Sled pulls like a mofo, a real arm puller. Crack the throttle and it's right there. Noticeable difference from stock. The other thing I'm happy about is the sled has very good low speed manners on the trail, maneuvering twisties around trees etc. Very smooth engagement with the SLP spring and I can put put around the fields with my 6 yr old son on board.
Now if the resonance goes away with the silicone on the springs then I would have to say the sled is damn near perfect for me.
