SLP MTX weights

[jdtech65]

I have heard all good things about heavy heel weights in the Pro so I decided to get some MTX weights for it. I ride mostly from 8-10,000 so right now I am using 10-60s. I do plan on later installing the PA 13.6 head sp then I would need to go to 10-62s. So for figuring out the MTX weights you add 4 grams so I am looking at 64g right now and later 66g. So I was planning on getting the 62 gram MTX weights. My question is though where to add the extra 2 grams? 2 in the belly and 0 in the tip or go 1 gram in both the belly and tip? I figured with the PA head to go 3 in the belly and 1 in the tip to get to 66 grams.

 

[B2]

I ride those elevations and would consider getting at least the 65g MTX weights, maybe even the 68s. I think you will have a hard time adding enough weight to keep your R's down, especially after you add the head.

 

[dustin pancheri]

65 MTX's will give you the broadest range of adjustment. You could go with 68's but you will more than likely have to run them empty. I would recommend a Blue/Pink primary spring as well as a Black/Purple secondary spring. Depending on how much you weigh and your track, you may find it beneficial to change out to a 40 degree finish on your helix as well.

Du

 

[jdtech65]

So with everything else the same can they pull more weight going with the heavy heel wieghts. For example if I have 10-60s now the equivalent is the MTX 64g but with the heavy heel weights be able to run 65g or 66g and get the same rpms? Maybe I will go with the 65 gram weights then and try them empty at first.

 

[theultrarider]

Yep. I went from 10-68's to 71g mtx's with 4 grams added to them for where I ride. Also, as Dustin mentioned, I weigh 220# fresh out of a shower and going to a 60/40-.36 helix made a big difference for me as well. On the steep and deep, it now holds the r's solid. Tach never wiggles no matter what I climb, cross, ect. Even more important in the high elevations you ride at.

 

[jdtech65]

Thanks

I weigh 170 without gear and have the 163" track. I do have the black/purple secondary spring in it allready. Otherwise I still have the stock primary spring and helix in it.

 

[B2]

I ran my 2011 stock 163 with 65g MTX last year (8-10K) and had to add weight to keep it off of the rev limiter. I had the SLP blue/pink primary, red/black secondary, and 58/40 helix as well though.

 

[jdtech65]

I ran my 2011 stock 163 with 65g MTX last year (8-10K) and had to add weight to keep it off of the rev limiter. I had the SLP blue/pink primary, red/black secondary, and 58/40 helix as well though.

How much weight did you end up adding to the 65g weights? We're heading back out West Thursday and want to get it close from the get go.

 

[800poodragon]

Do the MTX compare close at all to the belly buster weights in the way they perform?

 

[B2]

How much weight did you end up adding to the 65g weights? We're heading back out West Thursday and want to get it close from the get go.

I had 1 gram belly and 1 gram tip weight, but as stated had different helix and springs. If your running the 42 finish angle of the stock helix, you might try them empty (not exactly sure as I never ran them with that combo) but I would bet you pull rpm. FWIW, I ran 68g MTX empty with a black/purple secondary and 58/40 helix (stock 163) and it would pull 8100-8200 rpm, but would generate more heat and sometimes fade after a long pull.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

I think when you order..get the blue/pink spring..and the green/pink...its cheap and if the sled feels sluggish down low the green/pink will fix it....and yes up that high..I would want a 40 helix..maybe even a 38..also..not a fan of the black/purple in the sec on the pro..seems to make more heat then the stocker..might try the stock spring first..also dont forget 2 delrins for the sec.....just what I would do...

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Do the MTX compare close at all to the belly buster weights in the way they perform?

pretty close..but a little different..seems to me the mtx;s actually load the mid a little better then the belly busters....

 

[hyperduc]

I'm running a stock sled (with the exception of an SLP silencer) at roughly the same elevation. I went with the entire SLP clutch set-up, they included the 65 gr. weights with it, no additional weight installed right now and its pulling near perfectly.

 

[gerrman]

Same question about an MTX weight. Currently running a 67gr "Ron's Big Torque" in an IQ RMK, 3000-5500'. What would the best base weight MTX, 68 or71 gr for my application?

 

[theultrarider]

Same question about an MTX weight. Currently running a 67gr "Ron's Big Torque" in an IQ RMK, 3000-5500'. What would the best base weight MTX, 68 or71 gr for my application?

68's. I know AKSNOWRIDER was running 68's in his old IQ and it ran very very well. I forget though which rivets he had placed where in them though. I'm sure he'll see this and chime in after work tonight. He also rides alot at those elelevations to should be able to get you pretty much spot on.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Same question about an MTX weight. Currently running a 67gr "Ron's Big Torque" in an IQ RMK, 3000-5500'. What would the best base weight MTX, 68 or71 gr for my application?

I run 68's..try to run a gram less in the tip then the belly ..........

 

[dustin pancheri]

So with everything else the same can they pull more weight going with the heavy heel wieghts. For example if I have 10-60s now the equivalent is the MTX 64g but with the heavy heel weights be able to run 65g or 66g and get the same rpms? Maybe I will go with the 65 gram weights then and try them empty at first.

Not the equivalent, but close. What we say is, if a person is using an OEM weight, the easiest way to decide what MTX weight to run is to add a minimum of 4-5 grams to the weight you are currently running. That doesn't mean that it will be where you end up, but it will get you in the ball park. I find a direct "equivalent" usually ends up being about 5-7 grams heavier. Of course rider weight, traction, and snow conditions can effect final calibration.

This rule does not work the other way very well. In other words, if we recommend a 68g MTX weight in a pipe set with 2 gram rivets in each hole, subtracting 4-5 grams will not tell you what OEM weight to run......It will be closer to 8 grams lighter than the MTX weight.

This comparison does not work well with some aftermarket weights as they tend to load differently(as we do with the MTX;s) and can vary substantially.

Dustin

 

[ApeSh*tBananas]

?

Has anyone ran there sled against a stock sled after changing to these, and how easy is it to change weight it looks like some kind of rivet can you hammer them in and out or do you have to drill them out

 

[tdblakes]

Has anyone ran there sled against a stock sled after changing to these, and how easy is it to change weight it looks like some kind of rivet can you hammer them in and out or do you have to drill them out

Its easy to change weights on a Polaris Primary. And yes you can hammer in the rivets, but you have to drill them out. They have a head on one side and the other side mushrooms.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Has anyone ran there sled against a stock sled after changing to these, and how easy is it to change weight it looks like some kind of rivet can you hammer them in and out or do you have to drill them out

SLPs rivit tool works very good for both installing AND removing the rivits...well worth the money......