SLED WRAP INSTALLATION
- Thread starter donbrown
- Start date
If you use a heat gun it will help to remove and installation. Be careful of what chemical you use to remove old decals because it will eat into the plastic breaking it down.
Some local detailer said to clean surface with GOO Gone wash soap and water then clean with IPA.
Apply stickers at room temp.
I was thinking to warm the wrap to allow it to flex easier but not sure what will happen when it cools … peel off from cooling.
Guess have the sled and the wrap the same temperature.
Apply stickers at room temp.
I was thinking to warm the wrap to allow it to flex easier but not sure what will happen when it cools … peel off from cooling.
Guess have the sled and the wrap the same temperature.
Actually using a heat gun during application works very well, just don't overheat the decal. The heat really helps when you need to wrap around a body line or slight curve.
Also if you are doing an Arctic FX wrap they sell an application kit that comes with surface prep, adhesive remover and an application fluid. It also comes with a couple different squeegees as well.
If the material is good quality, and installed correctly you wont have to worry about it coming off.
Get it clean, use lint free rags to wipe it down. I apply them dry, and if its good material you can pull it back off if you need to move it. When you use heat, you heat it up to 180* and it will loose its memory and then hold the new shape when it cools down.
With air release material you should be able to work out bubbles....DONT poke it with a needle, that will just cause issues later.
After your done, set it outside in the sun for a few hours a couple times, it will just keep adhering better and "sucking down" to the surface.
Just take your time and it will turn out nice. These sled "kits" are so easy to do when compared to doing a full wrap on a vehicle where you stick a 5ft x 22ft piece at one time
Get it clean, use lint free rags to wipe it down. I apply them dry, and if its good material you can pull it back off if you need to move it. When you use heat, you heat it up to 180* and it will loose its memory and then hold the new shape when it cools down.
With air release material you should be able to work out bubbles....DONT poke it with a needle, that will just cause issues later.
After your done, set it outside in the sun for a few hours a couple times, it will just keep adhering better and "sucking down" to the surface.
Just take your time and it will turn out nice. These sled "kits" are so easy to do when compared to doing a full wrap on a vehicle where you stick a 5ft x 22ft piece at one time
To the guys that are using the "wet" application method, I assume the material is NOT air pass technology vinyl???
Arctic FX wraps are made of air pass vinyl and this stuff is super easy to work with. If fact speaking with Jordan at Arctic FX he recommends the "dry" application process. I've completely wrapped two previous sleds with Arctic FX wraps and my new my new that is coming will be wrapped again with Arctic FX.
As long as the surface is clean the decals stick without issue. I use a heat gun in spots when when I'm done I go over the entire sled with a little heat and a soft squeegee. After that, set it outside int the sun and check it over.
Arctic FX wraps are made of air pass vinyl and this stuff is super easy to work with. If fact speaking with Jordan at Arctic FX he recommends the "dry" application process. I've completely wrapped two previous sleds with Arctic FX wraps and my new my new that is coming will be wrapped again with Arctic FX.
As long as the surface is clean the decals stick without issue. I use a heat gun in spots when when I'm done I go over the entire sled with a little heat and a soft squeegee. After that, set it outside int the sun and check it over.
I use isopropyl alcohol to clean the surfaces and my finger tips. Figure out how I think the piece is going to lay and where I need to start. Then I use a heat gun to heat the sled surface the decal is going on until it is nice and warm. Apply the decal dry starting from one end and working to the other while holding one end up slightly so I don't trap any air under it. Use the heat gun locally if I need to get the vinyl to match a difficult contour. Then once it's down I run the heat gun over the whole thing again and rub/press the decal down all over to make sure it adheres. This may be overkill, but I'd rather spend a little extra time to make sure everything is as it should be than have edges peeling later.
Maybe I just suck at applying wraps, but the wet method allows me to work so much faster and have no air intrusion.
Doing more complex panels dry always end up with fairly large bubbles that the air release just doesn't let out. Wet, I can just float them around, squeegee smooth and its done. I did a sled half and half side by side and the dry side is not nearly as nice, also took over 2x a long screwing off with it. Wet side I just flew through it all, then let it sit in the sun and bake all the adhesive into the plastic. Bam. Looks amazing.
Doing more complex panels dry always end up with fairly large bubbles that the air release just doesn't let out. Wet, I can just float them around, squeegee smooth and its done. I did a sled half and half side by side and the dry side is not nearly as nice, also took over 2x a long screwing off with it. Wet side I just flew through it all, then let it sit in the sun and bake all the adhesive into the plastic. Bam. Looks amazing.
You spray on a light mist of very mildly soapy water down first so the decal is sort of floating and has minimal stick to it. this makes it very easy especially on larger sheets and on smooth plastic to float the decal into the right spot, then using a wrap squeegee, press the water our for a nice smooth install.
This way the decal isnt fully adhered until you run the squeegee over it, so you almost have to try and get air pockets in it.
This way the decal isnt fully adhered until you run the squeegee over it, so you almost have to try and get air pockets in it.
More info on applying with the Wet method....
Don’t use the wet method when using air-egress vinyl. The wet process will trap excess fluid, and the adhesion development will fail.
Never apply the film over rivets when using an applicator fluid. Moisture can collect underneath and cause the vinyl to crack while also lifting the edges.
It’s not ideal for curved surfaces.
You must re-squeegee after 24 hours of installation.
The process takes longer for the vinyl to adhere to the car because the fluid must dry and conform to its surfaces.
You should avoid wet wrap application if you can use the dry method.
Don’t use the wet method when using air-egress vinyl. The wet process will trap excess fluid, and the adhesion development will fail.
Never apply the film over rivets when using an applicator fluid. Moisture can collect underneath and cause the vinyl to crack while also lifting the edges.
It’s not ideal for curved surfaces.
You must re-squeegee after 24 hours of installation.
The process takes longer for the vinyl to adhere to the car because the fluid must dry and conform to its surfaces.
You should avoid wet wrap application if you can use the dry method.
